Here is my delima. I am looking for the most bang for the buck. I only have so much cash and I want to make the most N/A power with it I can. Pat G spec'd me a hydraulic roller that should pick me up 10-20rw on my 416 over my current cam. I was also going to add an EWP. So possibly a total net gain of 25rw and 15tq. But for the same price I can get Pat to spec me a solid roller. The car is daily driven and I don't mind some clatter. Do you all think a solid roller would be worth the investment power wise over the hydraulic and EWP? What is the steetability/longevity of a daily driven solid roller? The motor is already making 540/495rw and isn't broken in yet. The current cam is a 244/248 .612/.615 114+4.

 

Your car makes great power. If it was mine I wouldn't do anything to it.

 

Well, that is my other thought. But enough is never enough.

 

EWP=waste of money for what little hp you get IMO, and the solid roller setup would be bad ***, but your current total valvetrain setup has to change. What cam is in it now, compared to what he speced.

 

I know the EWP doesn't produce much for the price. But, it is the only bolt on I don't have. I am looking to squeeze every last ounce of power out of it.

The cam that is currently in it is the off the shelf Comp XER 244/248 .612/.615 114+4 that I had left over from my 383. The one Pat G speced for me is a Comp LSL 247/255 .624/.624 112+2. I haven't got it yet because I am still trying to decide on the best course of action.

If the solid roller was ground on Comp XFI lobes it will work with my current springs. The off the shelf grind I was looking at was a 251/256 .655/.640 113+3. It calls for a 921 spring that only has 130lbs on the seat and 400lbs open. The springs I have are 160lbs on the seat and 450lbs open. I can sell my YT non adjustables and buy some YT adjustables. Then I will need pushrods, lifters, and head bolts. It is just the pain in the butt of taking the heads off and doing the cam swap. Running the valves isn't that big of a deal. But if I can gain 30-40rw from the cam swap then labor is not a concern. I would love to see 580/525rw out of this motor.

 

Yeah, the new grind 247/255 should make a little more hp/trq for you(similar cam of the GIANT) but on LSL lobes(not fimilar with these) and the valve events and overlap that will be in the "new" grind should help out as well. Solid roller would be the "BIG" ticket to making alot more power here, but alot more expensive.

 

Yeah, I told Pat I wanted to run 9.9@137 on motor and that is what he came up with. There is a graph floating around of my first break in dyno pulls. Pat said the new cam would put my overlap at TDC and that would help out. I am not sure how, I guess no wasted energies on the intake or exhaust stroke. We also gave it a little more exhaust for future nitrous use with out giving up too much N/A. I think the LSL's are a little more agressive down low but nice up top. Plus they don't have a ton of lift like the LSK. It was also the lobe that best represented what Pat wanted for my car. I trust Pat so I am sure it is going to be a good cam.

How much more power do you think the new cam will make over the current cam? Am I looking at 5-10rw or more? You seem to have a better grasp on cam events and the way they help or hurt than I do. I really want to bump up my tq. It just seems weak to me.

 

you will get your 5-10 for sure.

 

I don't know if 5-10rw is going to be worth the time, money, and effort. I was really hoping the new cam would be worth 15-20rw and at least 10lb tq. Now I really do have something to think about.

 

What's the rest of the parts you got on your motor currently? intake mainfold?

 

I agree. Drive it and enjoy it. Spray it if you need more. Worry about the cam when you have to take it back apart. Seems like a lot of work and money if you think a best case scenario gain will be 40hp.

 

Here is my post from the dyno section. It has all the info in it. First off I would like to thank Ron at Vengeance, Brian at SDPC, Tony Mamo, Pat G, and Jason and Ryan at RPM. All great guys to work with and very helpful. This thing would not have come together with out all of them.

So, I finally got the car on the dyno today and it put down 540/495rw SAE. The motor has 1,200 miles on it and still has the thick 20/50 break in oil. No dyno tricks and I ran it at 185* with the heavy Z06 motor sports wheels on it. I would say this dyno is conservative. I will get a graph up momentarily. I just took a friends car up there to tune on Friday in like weather conditions and on a 346 with milled AFR 205, every bolt on, EWP, Mamo 90/90, 228/232, full exhaust his car only put down 445/418rw.

The red is the 416 and the Blue is the 383.



The hp exceeded my expectations but the tq is lacking in my opinion. I tried a bunch of fuel and spark alterations but this was the best I could do. Here is the combo. This is my daily driver.

SDPC 416
12.01 SCR 8.72 DCR
TFS 235's 68cc
YT UL rr's
Vengeance ported 90/90
Vararam
XER 244/248 .612/.615 114+4 installed 109.5 icl
Comp 850-16's
ASP UD
Kooks 1 7/8" 3" X w/o catts
Borla stinger singles
Tex OZ700
39* injectors
SD tune by me with EFI live. I maxed out my MAF.

That is the major stuff. Future changes include a custom cam from Pat G, and Tex twin disk, EWP. I think I can get this thing to go 570/515rw when the new cam and clutch go in with more miles and some Royal Purple 10w30.

The real story is how much I picked up over the 383 with the same cam and different heads. I am looking to go 9.9@137 on motor. With the 383 I went 10.8's@130 with 478/435rw so I think it is doable in the right weather.
mbo.

I am beginning to wonder if I ran out of cam or intake for this cobo. The power peaks at 6,100 but holds till 6,800. Well it looses 15rw by 6,800 but doesn't just fall off.

 

Well the dyno graph didn't transfer. The graph is in the dyno section under Finally some dyno numbers for my 416.

 

if you're really looking for max-effort power while staying on a tigh budget....N20 is probably the best route. i'm not a fan, but fast IS fast...a solid roller 416 would be badass, you would definately see the gains you're looking for i believe. i can't say whether or not that's the best route though. there's a lot of heated debated over going SR or not. some people say it's a huge pain and you can't hardly drive down the block without adjusting valves and blah blah blah....other say they dont DD the car, but take it out on weekends and some weekdays and they only adjust vavles once a month, it's not that bad, blah blah blah blah....

the point is: it's your car, do what you want. if you have something else to drive some of the time, go for it. keep in mind a dyno is just a tool. i'd go to the track with your current setup and see where you're at ET/MPH-wise. i agree that a cam swap that will only yield 5-10...even 15rwhp isn't hardly worth the effort, BUT if your car goes 10.001 @ 135.8mph...you might just do that to get your 9.9" and still be hydraulic roller...

just my $0.02

 

I am seriously considering the bottle. I just hate haveing something on the car that isn't always there. I am going to try to get to the track as soon as I can and see where I stand. It will atleast give me a base line. The winter is about .4 tenths faster around here. But that will give me some more direction. I am starting to think a SR is going to be more of a hassle than it is worth. I am going to look at my intake manifold first and try some other little things to make the car faster. 3.90's might yeild more gains than a cam swap. But the Pat G cam is looking like the best bet right now.

 

Do you know if Ron did any extra porting on your manifold for the cubes than the regular 90/90.