Will this work with stock heads?
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From: Maple Grove MN
Will this work with stock heads? Could I put this cam in my car without doing anything to my cylinder heads? Is there anything I would for sure have to upgrade like springs? If I have to spend money on the heads I dont want to do it but if it will work the way it is that would be nice. Doesnt seem like a very aggresive cam. Thanks in advance for your input.
216/220 .525/.532 114LSA
216/220 .525/.532 114LSA
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Re: Will this work with stock heads? any cam other than stock, definetly upgrade the springs.. other than that, with that cam, you'll be fine
though that cam may not perform great (relatively) if you ever do upgrade the heads...
though that cam may not perform great (relatively) if you ever do upgrade the heads...
Re: Will this work with stock heads? yea you can run that on stock heads, but you will also need springs retainers and the appropriate gaskets, not to mention pushrods. If you want you can go bigger. Ive seen people running the tr230 on stock heads, but most go with the tr224. BTW, with the 224 cams and up gears are a good idea. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
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From: Maple Grove MN
Re: Will this work with stock heads? Hmmm...I just want something that will help out the blower a little. I dont need too big of a cam since I do want to retain easy drivability. Stang Killer are you sure I would need to upgrade pushrods? Is the main reason to upgrade the springs to avoid valve float? I don't ever rev over 6,000 anymore. That is where my limiter is set at. What kind of lift does my stock cam have? I should have waited for the 2001 models. They have a little more lift to the cam if I remember correctly.
Re: Will this work with stock heads? That will work well as a blower cam. I'd use the XE ramps (~.560 lift). They will idle a little better and the extra lift may get you a bit more power.
I'd do better springs & pushrods too.
I'd do better springs & pushrods too.
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Re: Will this work with stock heads? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1slowCamaro:
<strong> Is the main reason to upgrade the springs to avoid valve float? I don't ever rev over 6,000 anymore. That is where my limiter is set at. What kind of lift does my stock cam have? I should have waited for the 2001 models. They have a little more lift to the cam if I remember correctly. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Higher lift cam needs better springs... you may be able to get away w/stockers but may risk spring bind. Depending on lift, I don't think upgraded pushrods are necessary... if you're going high lift (> 550) then I'd say def get better Push Rods (due to the aftermarket springs associated with it... more seat pressure = more pressure on push rods...) though if you have a M6 then you may be better off keeping the stock push rod
Stock push rods = weakest link... hardened pushrods = valves or springs are weakest link .. push rods are cheaper <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> (in case of misshift)
<strong> Is the main reason to upgrade the springs to avoid valve float? I don't ever rev over 6,000 anymore. That is where my limiter is set at. What kind of lift does my stock cam have? I should have waited for the 2001 models. They have a little more lift to the cam if I remember correctly. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Higher lift cam needs better springs... you may be able to get away w/stockers but may risk spring bind. Depending on lift, I don't think upgraded pushrods are necessary... if you're going high lift (> 550) then I'd say def get better Push Rods (due to the aftermarket springs associated with it... more seat pressure = more pressure on push rods...) though if you have a M6 then you may be better off keeping the stock push rod
Stock push rods = weakest link... hardened pushrods = valves or springs are weakest link .. push rods are cheaper <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> (in case of misshift)
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From: Maple Grove MN
Re: Will this work with stock heads? Thanks Ragtop. Any specific cam suggestions are welcome. I just want a blower type cam, with a nice sounding idle (slightly rough), that I dont have to rev really high to get power out of. Its not my daily driver but its not a race car either. Main use is freeway fun. How about ---> .563/.563 224/228 114 ? More along the lines of what you were suggesting ragtop?
Justin
Justin
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From: Maple Grove MN
Re: Will this work with stock heads? Good advice LS1Racer and yes it is an M6. Since I must upgrade head components anyways I'm just going to go with 6.0 heads, better springs, retainers, and pushrods when I do the cam. No reason to upgrade stock heads that I'm going to eventually get rid of. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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Verdad Gallardo Re: Will this work with stock heads? Justin,
For a blower cam, 216/220 is a good choice for your goals. I was just suggesting faster ramp rates on the lobes. A 224/228 is probably bigger than optimium for a blower cam, especially if your goal is to shift at 6000. The biggest I would go is 220/224 114 +4 and that may not produce any better results given your shift points.
For a blower cam, 216/220 is a good choice for your goals. I was just suggesting faster ramp rates on the lobes. A 224/228 is probably bigger than optimium for a blower cam, especially if your goal is to shift at 6000. The biggest I would go is 220/224 114 +4 and that may not produce any better results given your shift points.
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From: Maple Grove MN
Re: Will this work with stock heads? Would the GM Hot Cam be an ok choice? If I was to do a cam before the heads this would be my only semi-economical choice since you can get the cam, springs, and retainers for $400. Plus they're working on a group purchase on these right now. It has a 112LSA though. I heard 114 is better for FI?
Justin
Justin