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Improved Racing Oil Baffle

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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 05:45 PM
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Default Improved Racing Oil Baffle

Along with all the other projects, I made some time to install the Improved Racing oil pan baffle. As a quick background, I have been over filling the pan with about a quart and a half oil to keep from sucking on air.
I received the baffle a few weeks ago. First impressions: nice brushed aluminum, clean, precise welds. I had an old LS1 pan sitting around. Test fit: perfect. Lines up nicely, bolt holes all line up on center.
I opted to install it with out pulling the motor. Went fairly quick and easy. I got the car on jackstands. Attached a cherry picker to the front of the engine. moved the alternator out of the way. Removed the long motor mount bolts. Lifted the engine about 2 inches. Disconnected the intermediate steering shaft. I have an alternate brake line routing, so I did not have to loosen the ABS module. Disconnected the oil level sensor. Slowly removed the 6 bolts holding the k-member to the body. The K-member dropped about 4-5 inches down. Keep in mind I still have the swaybar, ect attached.
Next I pulled the oil pan bolts and took the pan out. I pulled the OEM baffle from the pan, dropped the Improved Racing Baffle in, and installed on the car. The rest is the reverse of the disassembly.
Total time invested just over 3 hours. I didn't even remove the wheels. Tools needed are the usual suspects: #10,#13,#15,#18 socket wrench, jack, jack stand, cherry picker/hoist.
So that was my Thursday night.
Friday I headed to the track. Willow Springs. For those that are not familiar with Willow, there is a 450' radius 200 degree turn. Long sweeper that just takes forever to get thru, and is a good test for any baffle.
I filled the pan to the top of the full line. About 1.5 quarts below where I usually fill it. Sat my brother-in-law next to me with the sole responsibility of monitoring the oil pressure. Took the car out to multiple 20 min sessions. The baffle passed the test. The oil pressure held steady the whole weekend. Not even flinching in the turns.

Here are some pictures:
distance gained by just lifting the front of the block


k-member bolts, also the brake line bracket is loosened out of the way


k-member and pan dropped. The pan is not pulled out yet. Note the total distance dropped/raised at the motor mount.



the baffle test fitted in the pan
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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 06:33 PM
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Nice weigh reduction man! I'm hoping my moroso 7qt pans baffle will work similarly. I was concerned with oil starvation on launch more so than cornering.
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 12:33 AM
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What kills me the most is that this came out a week after I dropped my motor in the car. This is great news and I guess it will go in when I eventually get the UMI RR k-member.
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Old Jul 28, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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Nice write-up, good to see a review on this. Did you used to see oil pressure drops on the turns you mentioned before you installed the baffle?
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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Does this baffle make a difference?
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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Do you still have your original baffle? Im looking to purchase one. Pm me with a price if you want to sell it.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by yessir
Do you still have your original baffle? Im looking to purchase one. Pm me with a price if you want to sell it.
Are you looking for a stock baffle? If so I have on, PM'ing you.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 09:20 PM
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Great review, I plan on getting one at some point.
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Originally Posted by roadracetransam
Along with all the other projects, I made some time to install the Improved Racing oil pan baffle. As a quick background, I have been over filling the pan with about a quart and a half oil to keep from sucking on air.
I received the baffle a few weeks ago. First impressions: nice brushed aluminum, clean, precise welds. I had an old LS1 pan sitting around. Test fit: perfect. Lines up nicely, bolt holes all line up on center.
I opted to install it with out pulling the motor. Went fairly quick and easy. I got the car on jackstands. Attached a cherry picker to the front of the engine. moved the alternator out of the way. Removed the long motor mount bolts. Lifted the engine about 2 inches. Disconnected the intermediate steering shaft. I have an alternate brake line routing, so I did not have to loosen the ABS module. Disconnected the oil level sensor. Slowly removed the 6 bolts holding the k-member to the body. The K-member dropped about 4-5 inches down. Keep in mind I still have the swaybar, ect attached.
Next I pulled the oil pan bolts and took the pan out. I pulled the OEM baffle from the pan, dropped the Improved Racing Baffle in, and installed on the car. The rest is the reverse of the disassembly.
Total time invested just over 3 hours. I didn't even remove the wheels. Tools needed are the usual suspects: #10,#13,#15,#18 socket wrench, jack, jack stand, cherry picker/hoist.
So that was my Thursday night.
Friday I headed to the track. Willow Springs. For those that are not familiar with Willow, there is a 450' radius 200 degree turn. Long sweeper that just takes forever to get thru, and is a good test for any baffle.
I filled the pan to the top of the full line. About 1.5 quarts below where I usually fill it. Sat my brother-in-law next to me with the sole responsibility of monitoring the oil pressure. Took the car out to multiple 20 min sessions. The baffle passed the test. The oil pressure held steady the whole weekend. Not even flinching in the turns.

Here are some pictures:
distance gained by just lifting the front of the block


k-member bolts, also the brake line bracket is loosened out of the way


k-member and pan dropped. The pan is not pulled out yet. Note the total distance dropped/raised at the motor mount.



the baffle test fitted in the pan
Sorry to bump an old thread, but do you have any higher resolution pictures like the last one? Specifically the two holes that go into the oil filter on the top left of the picture. Thanks.
Reply




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