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Spring Installation

Old Aug 25, 2003 | 08:05 PM
  #1  
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Default Spring Installation

Well, I am looking at trying to help out a friend on a cam installation. He bought a 228/228 .571/.571 112lsa comp cam. Along with the springs, titanium retainers, and pushrods. My only question is, are there any special tools that we are going to need to do the spring install? Some people here in Vegas say that springs on these cars are a pain. So any input would be greatly appreciated!
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Old Aug 25, 2003 | 08:08 PM
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Default Re: Spring Installation

Yes, an air conditioner in the garage.
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Old Aug 26, 2003 | 05:22 PM
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Default Re: Spring Installation

Can anyone else please give me any adivce before we start this? Anyone? Anything that I should watch out for before we start? Any pointers on making things a little easier? This is going to my first spring change so any help would be greatly apprecited.
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Old Aug 26, 2003 | 05:46 PM
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Default Re: Spring Installation

Did you look at ls1howto, or install university? I used the moore valve spring tool, but i would say that theres one in the "tools of the trade" section that would smoke the Moore tool. Actually used two of them, one is now useless. Air compressor is recommended but not needed. If you have a friend thats ever done springs before, could be quick as 2-3 hours using compressor for the valve, if not, a day. Good luck,
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Old Aug 26, 2003 | 06:33 PM
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Default Re: Spring Installation

I just installed a cam and springs last weekend. I used the the info from ls1install.com. I used the Napa valve spring compressor. It is just a bar type spring compresser, you cut the handle down to about 1" from the radius. The pic shows that most people cut it above the hole in the handle. However, I ended up cutting it again so it would clear the injectors and other hoses on the intake. I had to use one of the water pump bolts with 1/2" drive socket on it for a spacer. I beieve it was a 9/16" wrench size. This allowed the head of the water pump bolt to drop down inside the socket just enoungh to be easy to start the threads. You must take your time and make sure the threads are started correctly. You must use a spacer that allows just enough room to start the bolt or it can bottom out creating a real PITA. I would then use a small screwdriver and pry the retainer up and place the first keeper towards to the intake side first. Then I pryed(very little pressure) the retainer towards the exhasut side of the head by placing the screwdriver between the retainer and the tool. You can then set the other keeper in. At this point it was not fully seated, by giving the retainer just a slight knudge towards the exhasut side the second keeper would then drop right in. I found that if I put the first keeper in on the exhuast side first it was just about imposiable to get the other one in. The rear cylinder on the pass side is the worst to do. I also placed towels all along the head after I started the tool to keep from loosing any keepers down the holes in the head. Use the towels as you will need them if it goes like mine Hope this helps.
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Old Aug 26, 2003 | 09:02 PM
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Default Re: Spring Installation

If you have two spring tools you can save time by compressing one of the new springs first BEFORE you remove the factory springs. You need a spare retainer to do this and a couple of extra locks in case you drop one which isn't that hard to do considering you have to handle 32 of them two times each (once during removal and then again during installation). If you are using new titainium retainer you only need to purchase the extra keepers. As soon as you remove the old spring the new one is ready to go in. You don't have to waste time unloading the factory spring and then having to reload the spring compressor tool with the new spring. Put the piston on the compression stroke and use compressed air to hold the valves up during the switch. You can do both valves at the same time this way. Doing these two things will save you a considerable amount of time.
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Old Aug 26, 2003 | 09:52 PM
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Default Re: Spring Installation

Thanks for all of the input guys! I post up this weekend how things went.
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Old Feb 4, 2004 | 02:34 PM
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Im about to put dual crane valve springs on my car with titanium retainers and i was wonderin if it made a damn difference what order the valves are in because my motor is in the shop but my heads are in my garage and i wanan put them together so does it matter if the valves are in different than they came out because i didnt label which valve came out whatever hole.
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Old Feb 4, 2004 | 03:24 PM
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Default

Originally Posted by ls1perfcar?
Im about to put dual crane valve springs on my car with titanium retainers and i was wonderin if it made a damn difference what order the valves are in because my motor is in the shop but my heads are in my garage and i wanan put them together so does it matter if the valves are in different than they came out because i didnt label which valve came out whatever hole.
This could be a problem, I'm not sure but think that the valve's might "fit" themselves to the seat after so many miles.
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Old Feb 4, 2004 | 03:47 PM
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Default

Originally Posted by ls1perfcar?
Im about to put dual crane valve springs on my car with titanium retainers and i was wonderin if it made a damn difference what order the valves are in because my motor is in the shop but my heads are in my garage and i wanan put them together so does it matter if the valves are in different than they came out because i didnt label which valve came out whatever hole.
I would hand lap those valves..

Dave
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Old Feb 4, 2004 | 04:20 PM
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the motor has 38 thousand miles on. Hand lap? what exactly is that?
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