best springs?
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TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 447
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From: Houston
best springs? cam is f-13 230/232 595/585 at 112 lsa. I plan to rev this to 6800 rpms. I want a spring that could easily handle this. I was thinking the pac 1518s? Also if that would be what you suggest where can i get titanium retainers for these springs (part #)?
Thats the cam I run in my car and you will need a duel spring in my opinion. I run the Comp Cam 921 duel spring kit that comes with retainers and everything you will need to run them. Why are you reving to 6800 RPM with this cam I shift at 6500 RPM because car dont gain no more by going higher in the RPM on the dyno or the times at the track that really matters dont do as good that high either. Hope it works out for you.
safe go duals . comp 918s are for .600 lift but to run high rpms the duals are extra comfort . a while back the 918s were rated over .600 but there have been issues since then and they are advertised as said .600 .
if you have not looked in to it already you may want to change your rod bolts out . they are a weak link when running higher rpms .
if you have not looked in to it already you may want to change your rod bolts out . they are a weak link when running higher rpms .
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Verdad Gallardo You dont need a dual spring if the single beehive your using is of good quality which the PAC 1518's are. Its a nitrided premium spring. More duals have failed than PAC 1518's if you do some research.
Yes, some people prefer the safety of a double.
What kind of spring is on the C6 Z06?
Yes, some people prefer the safety of a double.
What kind of spring is on the C6 Z06?
You dont need a dual spring if the single beehive your using is of good quality which the PAC 1518's are. Its a nitrided premium spring. More duals have failed than PAC 1518's if you do some research.
Yes, some people prefer the safety of a double.
What kind of spring is on the C6 Z06?
Yes, some people prefer the safety of a double.
What kind of spring is on the C6 Z06?
I have seen a number of LS1, LS2, LS6, and LS7 beehive springs look like that...the repair is usually at least $3000 and many times much more than that..I like dual springs myself..to each his own.
Titanium valves will bend if the spring breaks at a low RPM in this case it still ruined the block...fortunately GM covered the engine under its warranty at no cost to the owner of the car.
Last edited by slt200mph; Aug 4, 2008 at 06:26 PM.
Here is a C6 Z06 spring..
I have seen a number of LS1, LS2, LS6, and LS7 beehive springs look like that...the repair is usually at least $3000 and many times much more than that..I like dual springs myself..to each his own.
Titanium valves will bend if the spring breaks at a low RPM in this case it still ruined the block...fortunately GM covered the engine under its warranty at no cost to the owner of the car.
I have seen a number of LS1, LS2, LS6, and LS7 beehive springs look like that...the repair is usually at least $3000 and many times much more than that..I like dual springs myself..to each his own.
Titanium valves will bend if the spring breaks at a low RPM in this case it still ruined the block...fortunately GM covered the engine under its warranty at no cost to the owner of the car.
I haven't seen a broken PAC 1518 yet but that is why people like doubles. The extra insurance that you don't drop the valve. Personally I'll be running a double PAC with my new combo but I didnt have any trouble with the beehives and my TR224.
Point being unless someone can prove a history of the 1518 and breakage then there is no reason not to use it.
I spoke to PAC at length about this. They make it all so there is no reason for them to sway me towards one particular spring over another. They swear up and down that the 1518 is superior to the 921 double.
They don't see breakage with their springs. They had a Ford spring fail last year and the metalurgy showed it was cause by an outside influence. the spring has been scratched and that where the break was.
Point being unless someone can prove a history of the 1518 and breakage then there is no reason not to use it.
I spoke to PAC at length about this. They make it all so there is no reason for them to sway me towards one particular spring over another. They swear up and down that the 1518 is superior to the 921 double.
They don't see breakage with their springs. They had a Ford spring fail last year and the metalurgy showed it was cause by an outside influence. the spring has been scratched and that where the break was.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; Aug 4, 2008 at 06:45 PM.
I haven't seen a broken PAC 1518 yet but that is why people like doubles. The extra insurance that you don't drop the valve. Personally I'll be running a double PAC with my new combo but I didnt have any trouble with the beehives and my TR224.
Point being unless someone can prove a history of the 1518 and breakage then there is no reason not to use it.
I spoke to PAC at length about this. They make it all so there is no reason for them to sway me towards one particular spring over another. They swear up and down that the 1518 is superior to the 921 double.
They don't see breakage with their springs. They had a Ford spring fail last year and the metalurgy showed it was cause by an outside influence. the spring has been scratched and that where the break was.
Point being unless someone can prove a history of the 1518 and breakage then there is no reason not to use it.
I spoke to PAC at length about this. They make it all so there is no reason for them to sway me towards one particular spring over another. They swear up and down that the 1518 is superior to the 921 double.
They don't see breakage with their springs. They had a Ford spring fail last year and the metalurgy showed it was cause by an outside influence. the spring has been scratched and that where the break was.
So the micrograph indicated that there was a scratch (stress riser) on the Ford spring and that contributed to the breakage...scratch or a surface inclusion...only the technician really knows.
PAC is saying that the 1518 spring is superior to the 921 spring up to .650 lift? I doubt that seriously,but then again PAC could prove me wrong by coming on this forum and stating that their 1518 spring is good up to .650 lift.
So the micrograph indicated that there was a scratch (stress riser) on the Ford spring and that contributed to the breakage...scratch or a surface inclusion...only the technician really knows.
So the micrograph indicated that there was a scratch (stress riser) on the Ford spring and that contributed to the breakage...scratch or a surface inclusion...only the technician really knows.
http://www.pacracing.com/Street_Stri...Set_of_16.html
http://www.pacracing.com/beehive.html application chart for you
Yes good to .650 lift, why would you doubt that?
As far as PAC coming on here to explain something to you personally.....LOL you are kidding right?
Yes the beehive provides better valve control. Its ovate and the
harmonics are what we're talking about here
Beehive valve springs have been known in the industry as having a lower mass at the retainer end thus allowing for better valve control. This is only partially the reason for the better valve control. Beehive valve springs are unique when it comes to coil spacing, rate control, and also using a PAC pioneered MA wire cross section.
Fig. 2 Wire cross section for Multi Arc and Ovate wire more commonly used for Beehive springs.
Here is the link for some elightening reading.
http://www.racingsprings.com/beehivesprings.htm
Yes surface scratch is what they stated.
Give them a call if you dont believe what you read.
I carry both the 1218 and the 1518. The 1218 is good to .600 lift. It is how ever not nitrided like the 1518
If you look hard enough you can see the goldish hue of the nitrided 1518 on the right.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; Aug 4, 2008 at 11:38 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 114
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From: Vancouver, WA.
I've run 1518s on the track car for two years now and I swear by them. The beehive design keeps the valve train quick and light and at the rpms you're planning on - get the titanium retainerers.
We stock the 918, PAC spring & the PRC double spring kit. For someone looking to save money the single spring is a ok option. The negatives to a single spring is your always vulnerable of a spring failure causing a catastrophic failure. With a double spring you have a longer lasting package that gives you some extra safety thanks to that extra spring being there. I've personally seen our springs after 60k miles with there pressures tested & they could have easily been run again based off pressures. Most people agree you need to atleast check a single spring every 20-25k miles.
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=173&catid=48
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=173&catid=48
__________________
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Very true and most people dont realize that all you need do is score the surface and thats where it breaks. I really really like the Crane dual spring tool for this reason.
i have run the patriot gold extremes and non extreme versions on all my customers cars and my own and never had a problem. however, i always upgrade lifters and pushrods because of the seat pressure.
99blancoSS does know his stuff so i would listen. to me, if you are going to run high rpm for a period of time i feel better with a dual springs.
99blancoSS does know his stuff so i would listen. to me, if you are going to run high rpm for a period of time i feel better with a dual springs.