Help Me Build a Chevy 350
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From: Houston, Texas
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 Question about the heads. You think its ok if I rebuild the stock heads to 2.02 or do I need to go aftermarket? I do know that this engine was running fine when they took it apart.
I was also wanting something like 10:1 compression for the 93 octane, planned on flat tops too.
Would it be a better idea to bore it .3 over and get a crank to make it a 383? What's so bad about it?
Would it be a better idea to bore it .3 over and get a crank to make it a 383? What's so bad about it?
If your motor is in good shape you might only need a hone.
As for the carb, everyone on the net tells me to get a Holley, everyone I work with tells me to get an Edelbrock.
I haven't looked at specific cams yet, but it won't be all that radical.
On the transmission I was looking at either a 350 or a 400, I'd prefer the 400.
On the rear end I was thinking about getting a Ford 9", see any problems that might cause?
BTW - I called the machine shop my work uses today, and these prices were, uh...less than I expected. Tell me these numbers look a little low.
Clean, bake, install cam bearings, freeze plugs, ect. - $100
.30 over - $120
Blueprint and balance - $350
As far as building this Minirat simply try to follow this (Reliability,Part Syncronization, patience, wisdom, and research)
This is not an LS1 it's a SBC with over 45 years of devellopment, fine tuning and experience behind it (Many more to come too).
Do your homework and benefit from the people that spent their lifetime with that little beast.
The cam will be more than mild, but I'm trying to stay close to a .500.
Things set in stone:
Flat top pistons @ 10:1
TH400
Holly carb. (can I get a few choices)
Still wondering about:
Stroking (benefits vs downfalls?)
heads (stockers w/ work near aftermarket performance? Worth the loss?)
main caps (found 4 bolt caps for $80, worth it to mill from 2 bolt to 4?)
Torque Converter (what size?)
Intake (which one?)
Connecting rods (which ones?)
Cam & Lifters (general information on each type. what should I get?)
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 I always wanted to make a 377 (400 block, 350 crank). It would be a nice high rever, or stroke the 400 block and make a SB 427. I think that the folks that make the merlin stuff have a new small block casting out that can go like 4.125. That and a nice set of trick flows and you would be making some nice torque.
Launching!
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350
LOL, Dude, an early 70's LT1 used to make 350hps and that is with flat tappets stock (Underrated too)
And I'm not saying people have only been working camel hump heads since the 80's. I'm just saying that every guy I knew in the 80's was looking for a set of camel hump heads, having them cut for 2.02/1.60 valves and talking about his 450hp motor. 3 months later they were pounding the pavement with 350hp. As far as 283's are concerned, I've owned 2.
You just sound a little like the guys I remember bragging over a beer in the garage back then. Talking about how all these GM parts go together to make big power, and always falling short. For the money he's spending, GM castings do not get him his best bang for the buck. It's common sense really. What makes better power, a GM port design made for driveability and ported for performance, or an aftermarket head DESIGNED for performance? Seems simple to me.
On The Tree
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From: Roanoke,va
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 Ur best bet is stock block .030 2 bolt mains with Arp studs, stock crank polished or turned 10/10, Eagle Sir rods 6.125 long pressed pin, Diamond JE or Ross pistons with childs and alberts rings flat top with 2cc valve releifs, have the block deck .002 for straightness, use pro topline 220 heads they come with 2.02/1.60 valves springs to .600 lift and they flow 272int/190ext, use a solid cam from comp about a 232/244@.050 .530/.550 112lsa 108 icl, rhoads lifters, comp pushrods, harland sharp roller rockers, comp valve covers, Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake, 750 speed demon carb, mallory unilite distributor with taylor wires, ac delco plugs, hooker headers, proform timing cover, Pete Jackson gear drive, CSI electric water pump. If u put it together ur self it will cost u about 4600.00 dollars I will put u one together for 5500.00 dollars. It will net u about 525 flywheel horse power.
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From: Houston, Texas
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350
Ur best bet is stock block .030 2 bolt mains with Arp studs, stock crank polished or turned 10/10, Eagle Sir rods 6.125 long pressed pin, Diamond JE or Ross pistons with childs and alberts rings flat top with 2cc valve releifs, have the block deck .002 for straightness, use pro topline 220 heads they come with 2.02/1.60 valves springs to .600 lift and they flow 272int/190ext, use a solid cam from comp about a 232/244@.050 .530/.550 112lsa 108 icl, rhoads lifters, comp pushrods, harland sharp roller rockers, comp valve covers, Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake, 750 speed demon carb, mallory unilite distributor with taylor wires, ac delco plugs, hooker headers, proform timing cover, Pete Jackson gear drive, CSI electric water pump. If u put it together ur self it will cost u about 4600.00 dollars I will put u one together for 5500.00 dollars. It will net u about 525 flywheel horse power.
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From: Houston, Texas
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 Can anyone give me a compare & contrast on the heads? I can get some trickflows for $850-$1000, and the Pro Topline heads for $700. Why go with the 220 when the 235 is like, the same price?
Thats a pretty mean cam there, but I could accept that.
Thats a pretty mean cam there, but I could accept that.
Launching!
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 Well, intake port volume is really going to be a consideration of how much air you can move through this thing. That's going to basically determine how much low-end torque you make, what kind of intake plenum design you run, and where you choose to put your power peak with your cam choice.
220 is getting big for the street. 235 is probably too big for the street... If you want it to feel crisp, and not soggy on the low end that is. 215 is a very good balance of street/strip port volume. It can still make the torque, but still support the volume to make big power. I would tend to stay away from the 235cc heads unless you're going higher compression, more cam, and big big stall.
I can't say enough good things about Trick Flow, AFR, and Brodix. They are all excellent. One of these heads would be my choice for a track car. As I've said before, with options this good, at prices this low, GM castings are just a waste of time. Trick Flow R's, AFR 215cc-220cc, and Brodix Track 1's are all top rated products for what you're trying to do.
220 is getting big for the street. 235 is probably too big for the street... If you want it to feel crisp, and not soggy on the low end that is. 215 is a very good balance of street/strip port volume. It can still make the torque, but still support the volume to make big power. I would tend to stay away from the 235cc heads unless you're going higher compression, more cam, and big big stall.
I can't say enough good things about Trick Flow, AFR, and Brodix. They are all excellent. One of these heads would be my choice for a track car. As I've said before, with options this good, at prices this low, GM castings are just a waste of time. Trick Flow R's, AFR 215cc-220cc, and Brodix Track 1's are all top rated products for what you're trying to do.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: Houston, Texas
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350
Well, intake port volume is really going to be a consideration of how much air you can move through this thing. That's going to basically determine how much low-end torque you make, what kind of intake plenum design you run, and where you choose to put your power peak with your cam choice.
220 is getting big for the street. 235 is probably too big for the street... If you want it to feel crisp, and not soggy on the low end that is. 215 is a very good balance of street/strip port volume. It can still make the torque, but still support the volume to make big power. I would tend to stay away from the 235cc heads unless you're going higher compression, more cam, and big big stall.
I can't say enough good things about Trick Flow, AFR, and Brodix. They are all excellent. One of these heads would be my choice for a track car. As I've said before, with options this good, at prices this low, GM castings are just a waste of time. Trick Flow R's, AFR 215cc-220cc, and Brodix Track 1's are all top rated products for what you're trying to do.
220 is getting big for the street. 235 is probably too big for the street... If you want it to feel crisp, and not soggy on the low end that is. 215 is a very good balance of street/strip port volume. It can still make the torque, but still support the volume to make big power. I would tend to stay away from the 235cc heads unless you're going higher compression, more cam, and big big stall.
I can't say enough good things about Trick Flow, AFR, and Brodix. They are all excellent. One of these heads would be my choice for a track car. As I've said before, with options this good, at prices this low, GM castings are just a waste of time. Trick Flow R's, AFR 215cc-220cc, and Brodix Track 1's are all top rated products for what you're trying to do.
Now for the question that just happens to be on my mind right now. Why don't I do like someone else suggested and just make a 380 stroker? strong bottom end, maintain the strength in the cylinder walls, just lose revs. Guess the question is: What's so bad about losing revs if you're making up for it in torque?
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 Message JnJSpdShop on AIM and ask about his trickflows. He has a nice set that already have alot of money into porting, etc.. I believe he might have flow numbers too.. I can't remember.. he is only asking $800, and they have a ton of money in porting.. I would have loved to buy them for my v8 s10 before I sold it last week 
-Josh
-Josh
Launching!
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 I got the impression that this was to be a combo that will be used mainly at the track. Track use usually means short gear ratios and high RPM's. With long stroke engines, high RPM's equate to piston speeds that don't exactly lend themselves to longevity.
Long stroke motors are better street engines IMO. Their torque production is considerable, and the need for that 6000+ RPM acceleration is diminished somewhat.
At the end of the day, you just need to decide what kind of motor you're after. There are tons of stroker motors running at the track, and it's not like you can't go that route. I'm just saying that in my opinion, it's not ideal for that application.
Long stroke motors are better street engines IMO. Their torque production is considerable, and the need for that 6000+ RPM acceleration is diminished somewhat.
At the end of the day, you just need to decide what kind of motor you're after. There are tons of stroker motors running at the track, and it's not like you can't go that route. I'm just saying that in my opinion, it's not ideal for that application.
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 Try enginekits.com just built a 383 from there used vortech heads probably built 20 SBC,s in my short time these kits are the best bang for buck,use vortec heads from pace performance or SDPC more torque than u need from these heads any questions u can PM me 
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 The first GM LT1 motor was released in the 1970 Corvetee. The motor was a Gen 1 iron block with a 4 barrel carberator... It was discontinued in 1971 or 72 becuase it was a smog motor...
It made 370HP (Gross HP)
Later in 1992, GM released the Gen 2 LT1 small block. It had an iron block and alumium heads, ran fuel injection, reverse water flow, and it was hard to work on.
It made about 275HP (Net HP)
***********************
If I were you I would not waste any money on the iron 350.
It made 370HP (Gross HP)
Later in 1992, GM released the Gen 2 LT1 small block. It had an iron block and alumium heads, ran fuel injection, reverse water flow, and it was hard to work on.
It made about 275HP (Net HP)
***********************
If I were you I would not waste any money on the iron 350.
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From: Houston, Texas
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 So I found this steel crank on ebay already in Houston.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33616
Milled over 10/10.
Arn't these worth like $200?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33616
Milled over 10/10.
Arn't these worth like $200?
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350
The first GM LT1 motor was released in the 1970 Corvetee. The motor was a Gen 1 iron block with a 4 barrel carberator... It was discontinued in 1971 or 72 becuase it was a smog motor...
It made 370HP (Gross HP)
Later in 1992, GM released the Gen 2 LT1 small block. It had an iron block and alumium heads, ran fuel injection, reverse water flow, and it was hard to work on.
It made about 275HP (Net HP)
***********************
If I were you I would not waste any money on the iron 350.
It made 370HP (Gross HP)
Later in 1992, GM released the Gen 2 LT1 small block. It had an iron block and alumium heads, ran fuel injection, reverse water flow, and it was hard to work on.
It made about 275HP (Net HP)
***********************
If I were you I would not waste any money on the iron 350.
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 Why is this silly? ..after he spends a ton of money rebuilding this engine it will still be a donosaur that can only be installed in a very old car if it is intended to be used on the street..
....save your money and buy a late model car with a modern powerplant... hell, you can buy an LS1 F-body for less than $10K now....
....save your money and buy a late model car with a modern powerplant... hell, you can buy an LS1 F-body for less than $10K now....
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From: Houston, Texas
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350
Why is this silly? ..after he spends a ton of money rebuilding this engine it will still be a donosaur that can only be installed in a very old car if it is intended to be used on the street..
....save your money and buy a late model car with a modern powerplant... hell, you can buy an LS1 F-body for less than $10K now....
....save your money and buy a late model car with a modern powerplant... hell, you can buy an LS1 F-body for less than $10K now....
Oh, and I found out that the block is probably '93 or '94.
I've heard a crank milled 10/10 is ok to buy, and a 10/20 isn't worth a ****, comments?
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 Why is this silly?
Stating factory power numbers to use as the basis for making your last statement seemed out-of-place when this thread is about hotrodding a small block. If his plans were to build to stock specs, then your comment would be more germaine.
..after he spends a ton of money rebuilding this engine it will still be a donosaur that can only be installed in a very old car if it is intended to be used on the street
That's what hotrodding is all about! It is like being a kid in a candy store, THAT SELLS INEXPENSIVE CANDY! LOL! The experience he'll get with this build up will be priceless. And the final product sounds like something he can definately be proud of. 400-450 hp is admirable & doable, GO FOR IT. Good luck with the build!
PS: Just my 2 cents, again, don't scrimp on the rotating assembly or block prep. Use the best parts that you can afford down there. If you gotta pinch a penny, do it up top.
Stating factory power numbers to use as the basis for making your last statement seemed out-of-place when this thread is about hotrodding a small block. If his plans were to build to stock specs, then your comment would be more germaine.
..after he spends a ton of money rebuilding this engine it will still be a donosaur that can only be installed in a very old car if it is intended to be used on the street
That's what hotrodding is all about! It is like being a kid in a candy store, THAT SELLS INEXPENSIVE CANDY! LOL! The experience he'll get with this build up will be priceless. And the final product sounds like something he can definately be proud of. 400-450 hp is admirable & doable, GO FOR IT. Good luck with the build!
PS: Just my 2 cents, again, don't scrimp on the rotating assembly or block prep. Use the best parts that you can afford down there. If you gotta pinch a penny, do it up top.
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350 Ditto on everything that 1999 SS M6.
I wouldn't reuse stock GM castings if I wanted to go fast.
Pro Topline stuff has sounded very interesting based on what I have read.
You want to build a street car or a drag car?
I wouldn't reuse stock GM castings if I wanted to go fast.
Pro Topline stuff has sounded very interesting based on what I have read.
You want to build a street car or a drag car?
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From: Houston, Texas
Re: Help Me Build a Chevy 350
Ditto on everything that 1999 SS M6.
I wouldn't reuse stock GM castings if I wanted to go fast.
Pro Topline stuff has sounded very interesting based on what I have read.
You want to build a street car or a drag car?
I wouldn't reuse stock GM castings if I wanted to go fast.
Pro Topline stuff has sounded very interesting based on what I have read.
You want to build a street car or a drag car?
I guess that means stroker, who all makes good cranks?