for a simple list of major items, check out Edlebrocks performer plus package, it should include an intake manifold, cam stuff, heads and maybe a carb even... i doubt u'll get more than 350-375hp/tq from a basic 350... if ur rebuilding anyway, there r some inexpensive stroker cranks out there to get u a 383 (with a .030 overbore), which will get u the power u want...

for a simple list of major items, check out Edlebrocks performer plus package, it should include an intake manifold, cam stuff, heads and maybe a carb even... i doubt u'll get more than 350-375hp/tq from a basic 350... if ur rebuilding anyway, there r some inexpensive stroker cranks out there to get u a 383 (with a .030 overbore), which will get u the power u want...

I'm "Old School" as some "Young Blods" would put it. i've built a few SBC's. Here is what i would do:
First the HEADS, get them magnafluxed to check for cracks. If OK get a prof. porting and polish job. Go bigger valves like 2.02's dump the 1.94.
3 angle valve job, Comp. Magnum roller rokers, double rings, titanium retainers, undercut valves and hardened prods. (Cheaper than buying A/M heads)
For the block: Hot tanked, blablabla. DO NOT bore unless necessary. If so do the least amount possible and match the pistons to the bore (Bored.02 means .02 larger pistons). Don.t oversize rings, they will leak after a while. Try to get 10/1 Comp ratio (OK with 93 octane) with flat tops. (Get a whole short block kit: pistons, rods, bearings, pins etc...). Get the crank cleaned, checked and balanced.(Very important).
Now for the cam I will leave that up to you, check Lunati or Comp cams they have good Kits.(Get it degreed)
Keep in mind that you will have an auto and you want the damn thing to idle. Don't over do it.Also get a good crank dampner like fluiddampner or so, remember balance and flow is the issue, vibrations kill. (Get the whole thing Blueprinted and Balanced)

As for the bolt on goodies, depending on your Cam, if you go track, i'd get a single plenum manifold (LOTS of Torque at high Rpm) with a 750 double pumper (Get it tuned for ur cam with right jetting Etc..). If u don't go rad on your cam then go with a dual plenum (Like performer).
Base your bolt ons on your cam selection!!
Headers: Get Tuned LTs with 1 3/4 primaries. True duals with X or H pipe into bullets for street or no muffs for track (Open Headers)

Now you got to hook that stuff to the pavement via TH400, HiStall TC, (Strong rear end)12 bolt and all the other stuff your ride will require.

In all with a similar set up u can pull 400hps easy and more. As mentionned above, Flow is important but also to match all your parts for the job you need that motor to do.

Reasearch and ask around then make your decision. Plenty of "Old hags like myself around".

Oh and you should be looking at 3000 to 3500 bucks for a reliable set up.

Final advice "Don't take short cuts" you'll end up paying more at the end.

I'll be honest with you... For the insignificant amount of money involved in SBC 23* heads, there's no way I'd go 80's old school with a port and re-valve. For just a wink over a grand you can be into a set of Airflow Research or Trick Flow heads. Those are a couple of the best bang for the buck heads you could bolt on a performance SBC. If you wanted to get a little wilder, take a look at the Brodix Track 1's. There isn't a chance in hell I'd have $800+ wrapped up in a GM casting when these three will beat the EYES out of a vortec's skull for $1200-$1300.

Heads are where your power is. And to be able to get your hands on heads that good for that kind of money is just sick. Everybody has been over and over the camel hump 2.02/1.60's for 20 years. They break their *** to make 350hp. Get the aftermarket casting, 230+ advertised duration, at least 10:1 CR, and let it rip. You'll be over the 400hp mark without stroking the bottom end.

I'm not a stroker fan when it comes to race anyway. Add to stroke means subtract from RPM. Great for street motors when you want serious torque, but you're not going to want to spin it over 5500rpm. Bottom line, if you're going to try to get at 450hp, you'll have to stroke it with GM casting cyl. heads, or go with aftermarket heads on 350 cubes.

I'll be honest with you... For the insignificant amount of money involved in SBC 23* heads, there's no way I'd go 80's old school with a port and re-valve.

Everybody has been over and over the camel hump 2.02/1.60's for 20 years. They break their *** to make 350hp.

Question about the heads. You think its ok if I rebuild the stock heads to 2.02 or do I need to go aftermarket? I do know that this engine was running fine when they took it apart.

I was also wanting something like 10:1 compression for the 93 octane, planned on flat tops too.

Would it be a better idea to bore it .3 over and get a crank to make it a 383? What's so bad about it?

As for the carb, everyone on the net tells me to get a Holley, everyone I work with tells me to get an Edelbrock.

I haven't looked at specific cams yet, but it won't be all that radical.

On the transmission I was looking at either a 350 or a 400, I'd prefer the 400.

On the rear end I was thinking about getting a Ford 9", see any problems that might cause?

BTW - I called the machine shop my work uses today, and these prices were, uh...less than I expected. Tell me these numbers look a little low.

Clean, bake, install cam bearings, freeze plugs, ect. - $100
.30 over - $120
Blueprint and balance - $350