I'm planning a future build up and want to know what the HP limit of stock rods with ARP bolts and bushed for floating pins is. I'm sitting at 400rwhp now and would like to see (either by more CIs or a 100 shot) ~500rwhp.

"If" I can get away with using the stock rods, that’s $1K that can go to doing something else (ie: resleeve).

The car is a daily driver and mostly gets shifted before 4grand around town (MAX rpm EVER is 6500-6600...never more...).

Thanks....

 

hell, i put down more than 500rwhp every weekend, on stock bottom end, no arp bolts period. As well, i drive it daily..too much but it works. I would say you are more than fine with ARP bolts and an extra 100push.

 

To answer ur ? Its not really horsepower that kills stock rods. RPM kills stock rods if u stay under 6800 and use katech or arp bolts u will be fine for what u want. Jay Johnson went 9.80s I beleive not positive on stock rods with arp bolts heads, cam, and a 175 shot.

 

9.80 with stock rods .....hell...I'm set...

thanks guys

 

 

PacerX <----- Shakes his head in wonderment.

For all the money required to get a car into the 10's, somebody decides to economize on the rods and rod bolts and take a chance with a +$8,000 motor.

At the power level we're talking about here, maybe the rods survive, but the pistons DO NOT - 'specially on nitrous.

You've got to pull the rod to replace the pistons, why not just replace those while you're there???

 

There are some things that just dont need to be replaced for a certain RPM and power level (more RPM than power). Why spend the $1000 when you it would buy you more somewhere else?

I have a MTI 387 built around stock rods with ARP bolts. Im not worried. And I am $1k wealthier.

chris

 

If you shop around, you can get Eagle rods for about half of that. Considering the cost of a grenaded engine, it's cheap insurance.

 

I don't know that I would go with Eagles. I have heard several conflicting stories as to their durability. Why not spend the extra couple of hundred and go with Manley, Lunati or Crower.

 

bodhi what have you heard about eagles?

 

do eagle rods come with ARP bolts (think they do)?

The H-beam (~$600) say they are good up to 500 hp.....H/C cars are close to 500 crank (400+wrhp).....so that does not seem like they are worth the money (unless I'm missing something)....

 

Kinda dumb not to upgrade the rods, because if they do go your whole engine will be a paperweight! At 450rwhp I'd stay stock+arp is OK, over that upgrade.

 

Have to agree with PacerX on this. My stockers with ARP bolts held up good until I hit the 200 shot. Exit #1 rod out of the block and a complete new bottom end. I would estimate about 590rwhp since I made 543rwhp on the 150 jets.

Eagle rods are in my new motor, and I have also used Lunati in the past. Local machine shop that builds race hemis said Eagles are just as good without the expense, and I believe them.

 

Thats what I thought, it is a forged piece right? Thats what I have in the mail so I hope it works...

 

For the stockers to have held until 700 fwhp or so, on N2o, which creates huge compressive force at lower RPM, is quite impressive. How about this then: "If you plan on 600+ rwtq or over 7000 rpm, buy decent rods." I dont think anyone would argue then.

Perhaps there are many cases where people dont plan on making that much power. I certainly dont, and I also plan on swapping the rotating assembly in 1-2 years for a 4" stroke assembly, which will have the nice rods. In the meantime, I dont plan on N2O, superchargers, or 6500+ rpm, so I wont waste the money on insurance I dont need.

chris

 

Maily Ford guys tearing them up- 306's and 347's with gas. I'm assuming that the SBC rod is the same basic design and material as the FSB.

 

you forgot to mention that Jay's car is pretty much a race only car, w/ a glide, and a just a touch over 2900 LBS, and hooks like a ****.

yeah, he did do it, i watched him make a 10.01 pass at the SBSO, but he also had very little invested in that motor. (self ported heads, good pistons, did his own assembly, cheap cam ect, ect..) so if it went, he wasnt really out much.

so now ask yourself, would you spend 2500 on a re-sleeved block and put stock rods in it to be used with a 150+ shot? if you plan on that, i'd be the first in line to laugh at ya when it blew. only cry once IMO. spend the money the first time, or it WILL cost you double. remember, you've got to pay to play. er.. well um.. keep on playin anyway. ;D

 

Aren't Eagle rods a mere $500; why do these folks say they are $1K richer for not upgrading to Eagles?

 

Manely Sportsman rods are $435 per set; are these forged units or mere junk?

 

thanks guys.....after all the "is it worth the risk" statements, I have desided to NOT risk it...

besides, I found the Callies Magnum Series 4" stroke LS1 Crankshaft over at SDPC2000 for $1,500 and if I go with that (which I will probubly do.....just have to save up a little more.. ) then I would need new 6.125" rods anyways.....

I started another post about which rods to get so if anyone has info on some good ones, please jump in on that one.


Thanks again for all the help