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ENGINE running bad, HIGH IDLE.

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Old 08-27-2008, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by KadinZ
^^hate you^^
Sometimes I tend to assume we're discussing LS1s on LS1Tech, you know?
Old 08-27-2008, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonrage
Sometimes I tend to assume we're discussing LS1s on LS1Tech, you know?
i know, its alright...i edited the post tho, didnt want you to think i actually hate you.

Originally Posted by KadinZ
^^hate you^^

thx for trying tho
Old 08-27-2008, 04:04 PM
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go to nifba.com it's a local car forum and ask either jpack or corey, they are both lt1 GODS, and i don't say that lightly. There local for you also, so you should get to know them, they all have lts cars and know there ****, you can tell them i referred you, off ls1tech
Old 08-27-2008, 04:14 PM
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doode, local is my F*king thing most def man, i already made an account with that site, ever go to cruise night in lansing?
Old 08-27-2008, 06:21 PM
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So how high was the water you went through? So you hook up the 02's and all hell breaks loose. The o2's are trying to tell you something, your car is running like crap, but you already knew that. The o2's are trying to correct for what the engine is actually doing. They are the brains if you will and the pcm being the heart. If your car is running pig rich, the PCM can only correct so much. Usually the readings in the pcm look for BLM's of 106-160. Anything north or south of that, all bets are off. Do not run the car with the 02's out of the pipes. You will do more damage than good. You said you get a code, what was the code for? The MAF sensor needs to know exactly what air you are bringing into the engine. If there is a miscalibration, the car won't see the ideal BLM number of 128. When this happens, the car either goes lean or rich dependent on what the number is. Other things that can screw up are the o2's themselves. To be honest, without pulling the actual code or looking at a datalog of the car, a guess at what is wrong is just that, only a guess. Talk to Corey and see if he can scan it. I only have obd1 software and interface. Should be pretty easy to figure out. Let me know if you need anything else.
Old 08-27-2008, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by zman1969
First off there are no fuses for the 02 sensers, have you pulled the codes? AutoZone will do this free of charge- have any lean codes? could be a simple vacuum leak- I had the same issue with erratic idle seemed ok going down the road- A/Z said poss MAF- had an extra and swapped it-more codes. turned out all it was the rubber line between PCV and the intake - its common that they deteriorate and leak unmetered air and the ecm cant adjust enough to make it run right - check the basics first especially before you throw a ECM that has to be programmed for your car at it mine was about .50c of fuel line to fix little 3" piece. Worst thing is I know these go bad all the time. It comes with part of PCV line assy about 50$ at the stealership.
Thats why shops charge to diagnose a vehicle - usually a diagnostic is 90% of the work to fix a vehicle - hope this helps you
my bad didnt see you were LT1, why did you post this in :LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-LS7 PERFORMANCE " ??
There most certainly is a fuse for the O2 sensors. ....Every single electrical component on the car is fused.

to the op....Another thing to do would be to make sure the MAF is clean.

Last edited by ShevrolayZ28; 08-27-2008 at 07:13 PM.
Old 08-27-2008, 09:53 PM
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i will say this again, if i havent said it at all, im sorry..the MAF is brand new. my old one was perfectly fine, but they put a new one in and now it runs RICH WHEN THE 02 SENSORS ARE IN. when the o2 sensors are in, the car tries to make-up for the extra amount of air getting in the engine, except the engine really isnt getting too much air, something is just fucked up! when the o2's are out, it runs at a high idle..but when they are in..it spits out gas and bogs up.
Old 08-27-2008, 10:49 PM
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Have you tried replacing the O2s? Hell, try replacing just one of them and plugging just that one in and see if that helps.

O2 sensors are among the most delicate sensors in a car.
Old 08-28-2008, 01:25 PM
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well...i just unplugged my pcv hose from the pass. side of my intake manifold, and the idle didnt go up at all, is that telling me something? maybe its got a hole in it, or a crack??
Old 08-28-2008, 02:15 PM
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It's not impossible.
Old 08-28-2008, 02:27 PM
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i just dont get why i dont have a pcv valve...why would someone take it off? wouldnt that just kill gas mileage or something..=/

my mileage has been completely fine up untill i hit the flood....it was about 23 on the highway, i always drove fast on the highway, and 15-17 in the city. not its lower in the city cuz of the crappy idle...its so high, it just eats up gas sitting there at 1,000-1100 rpm, i have to have the ac on all the time cuz it will go even higher...
Old 08-28-2008, 03:07 PM
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the pipe coming off the bottom of the intake, idk what it is.


pcv valve, i found it


the breather


the breather again...


and again....



this is what the breather connects to.


WHAT IS THAT BLUE THING?

Last edited by KadinZ; 08-28-2008 at 03:25 PM.
Old 08-28-2008, 07:36 PM
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Even if the Maf is new... it needs calibration. There are 4 tables to go through and calibrate. Think of it like putting on a pair of pants on the wrong way. While they will fit and you can walk around in them, they work a lot better when put on the right way and adjusted. If you were to see a datalog of your car and look at what the car is doing, it will tell you everything you need to know. If the engine is getting more or less air than the PCM thinks the MAF is seeing, the car adds too much or too little fuel. Then your o2's tell the whole story of what the combustion is doing and report back to the PCM to add or remove fuel. Now if you properly calibrate the MAF, and it shows the actual air the engine is seeing, the pcm can react properly and tell everything else what they need to do. Then and only then, will the car run correct, make the most power and also give you better fuel economy.
Old 08-29-2008, 08:18 AM
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soo...how do i get the MAF calibrated?
Old 08-30-2008, 07:54 AM
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Well, a good investment if you plan on keeping the car for awhile would be to have a laptop, a interface cable and software for tunning and datalogging.

Cable: From AKM cables

Software: Tunercats for tuning, Datamaster for Datalogging.

If it is not in your budget to purchase these, you could see if someone in the area has the software and cables to tune the car or see if Corey has what you need. If you decide to purchase the above, I can take care of whatever you need done. Like I said, I have all the software and cable, but all my stuff is OBD 1.
Old 09-02-2008, 09:21 AM
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that disconnected fitting looks to be the coolant bypass mods off of the bottom of the TB. How does the car react with everything plugged up when you try to accelerate? Check the codes. Give us the codes that you get. to me is sounds like you have a vacuum leak. My car did the same thing the other day. Idled high, felt like it wanted to drive itself. all due to a vacuum leak.
Old 09-08-2008, 08:32 AM
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i believe i fixxed everything..it was pretty simple, but i failed to see....it was the 2 bottom o2 sensors, and...the shop that had my car the second time, that changed the optispark...they turned the idle way up cuz i said i had an idling problem(optispark should have, and did fix the problem, but they just HAAAD to turn the idle up without telling me.)
so...yeah, my car runs perfectly fine except the IAC...the idle will move a little bit(not much, like 10-50 rpm each time) sometimes, but thats only because i went and cleaned the IAC valve one day, thinking that might help, but to my dismay, it didnt and i ruined the IAC valve by doing this. 80bux for the thing.ERR.

enayways, it was a good run, now im using high mileage oil because my car is burning oil pretty good, but the high mileage oil is seeming to work pretty well, no poofs of smoke when i start the car.

my spark plugs are still all black n **** from all the unburned gas..but i'll get to that soon.




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