Question about Eagle rods
I have heard that the LS1 rods are centered and SBC rods have an offset. Is this true because I have heard that the LS1 rods do and do not have an offset. Im not near a rod to check it out. Maybe some of experienced LS1 builders can clear this up for me. I remember when I reassembled my motor from before all of the rods had to face toward the front of the block.
So do the rods have an offset to them or not.
Offset ground cranks are when rod journals are reduced to gain stroke in grinding process, totally different thing.
The Eagle SIR Rod has:
Forged from 5140 steel "SIR" rods offer 50% greater strength than the GM "Pink" rod.
"Sir" Lightweight Connecting Rods Feature:
* New Forged 5140 Steel Rod
*ARP Wav Lok 3/8 rod bolts with 12pt.nuts
*Each forging is x-rayed,sonic tested & magnafluxed to insure quality
*Shot peened to stress relieve the metal
*Packaged in weight matched sets +/- 2grams
"The perfect choice for Pro Street, IMCA and classes that require a stock appearing rod."
Large Journal 2.100" Crank Pin
It's a better rod than stock but it's not going to fit easily. The big end width is .940 while the LS1 is .945, which means you will be running to much rod side clearance. But people seem to do that here.
If it was me I'd rather run a 4340 Forged rod like the Scat I beams, but they don't come in a 6.125" length. Those Eagle SIR rods are the only Cheap choice to run. If you wanted to spend more, like $400-$600 then there are alot of rods out there that you are not going to overpower.
Bret
LS1 rods are centered, for example, if you set the LS1 rod flat on a table (you see two circles when looking down on it) if you cut it horizontally in half the two haves would be similar. If you did the same to a small block chevy rod, one half would have more of the rod. This it is off set front to back.
If you go with an aftermarket rod, you are going to an aftermarket piston, unless you get a direct replacement LS1 rod. Small end clearence is not an issue side to side, the piston needs to be able to move.
As far as offset pistons, they are totally different, when you are taking about piston offset, you are talking about where the pin is sitting. Either the pin is in the center of the piston or it is moved out tword the upper or lower skirt.
Long story short, The Eagle rods will work as long as you get the pistons made for the rods.
Ryan K.
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I just buy "some" forged piston with a 0.927" pin and the correct compression height to go with the crank and length of rod.....or is there something "special" that I need to tell the piston company?
I had planed on ordering the rods from Summit (cheapest place) and the pistons from TR (good company to do business with).....I figured I would tell them the rod length, bore, stroke, and pin size so they could get me an off the shelf piston......
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The offset I was talking about was exactly how Ryan Karasek explained it. That is what I was wondering about if the rod has more meat from front to back. So would it be more wise to go with the H beams since they are the same on both sides?
If it was me, I would get a Eagle or Scat H beam for a SBC and get the pistons to match. Check out the Price of a Scat H beam in 6.125,6.200 and 6.250" lenghts, for the extra bucks I would upgrade the rod bolts. THAT IS ALWAYS A GREAT IDEA. You can find the Scat H beams for under $400 and the rod bolt upgrade is $100 normally.
One thing people haven't noticed is that you can tell a piston and a rod setup for a LS1 vs a SBC by the piston pin size! The piston pin for a LS1 is .945 while a SBC is .927, so if you are going to use a SBC rod, get a piston with .927 pins!
The odd thing is that the Eagle LS1 rod has a .927 small end for the pin and a .940 big end width. It's basically a overpriced SBC rod in a weird length. Stick with the 6.125" SBC rods.
BTW My rod choice for a NA Forged 346 LS1 would be a little more expensive & lighter but not to far off what I've mentioned here.
Bret


