Durabond Cam Bearings
Clevite "H" Main Bearings
Clevite "H" Rod Bearings
ARP Head bolt kit (costs $140 so i think its all of the head bolts)
ARP Main Stud Kit
ARP Rod Bolts
Cometic Head Gaskets
Total seal rings (everyone seems to be using those)

I guess imma go ahead and just ask what other gaskets or seals i should get, because im not sure what ones are commonly replaced, and what ones dont need to be replaced.

Any help would be great

 

Are you rebuilding the entire engine?

 

Yhea, Its at the shop right now getting Honed.

 

You got the internals pretty much covered but I would get ARP heads studs, not bolts. Make sure your machine shop line hones the block with the main studs. For gaskets I would pretty much just get new oil pan gasket, rear main seal, rear main cover gasket, timing cover gasket, valley cover gasket, get some new knock sensors, maybe a new set of intake manifold gaskets, header gaskets. I'm sure I'm missing some but those are some main things if you are building up a new forged motor.

Edit: Oh yeah what about pistons? I'm sure you're not reusing stock lol!

 

A lot of the sponsors sell gasket kits I got one from Texas Speed for my head, cam, and intake swap. They are great to deal with and have great prices.
Like Halloran said what about your pistons? Ported oil pump? Lifters and guides?
Really depends on how many miles were on the motor and how it had been treated and maintained before you tore it apart. But any way here is my list of things that I would look into if it were me, and these are all things I replaced when I had my motor apart
Timing chain/gears
Lifters/guides
Springs
Valve seals
Oil Pump/water pump
I would rather replace most of those things now rather than later.

 

all of that stuff i just did with my cam swap like 1500 miles ago. I am however keeping stock pistons. The oil pump, timing chain, and everything in the heads/valvetrain besides the rockers and valves themselves are brand new. Why studs instead of bolts?

 

Studs have a much higher tensile strength than bolts, they are reusable, they provide a better clamping force on the heads. Besides, when you blow out your head gaskets you don't have to replace your bolts every single time. They pay for themselves in the long run.

 

ARP head bolts are not torque to yield like the stock ones, so they are reusable.

 

Yhea thats what I was thinking.... I heard they were all re usable. Anyway i was more concerned about those other gaskets like Hallorian said the first time. All those seals on the covers and other BS like that is the things im afraid of forgetting. Not like its a HUGE deal but id rather order it all at once and avoid a $9.99 handeling charge and a $4.99 shipping charge on a valley cover gasket you know??

 

Sounds like everyone's got you covered Dragkid. I suggest getting more than one crank bolt if you're going to be installing your pistons too (as opposed to the shop assembling the short block). I'm building my LS1 for the first time and will have to go a second time to the dealership for the final torque on the crank bolt.

Also found out it was a good idea to replace the intake port gaskets and the fuel injector o-rings.

 

Humm i got the 12 point arp bolt, but i do think i got an extra GM one laying around. Imm assuming it gets beat up when you install it. Anyway i have a fast setup waiting to go on with new gaskets and just got injectors about 1500 miles ago so i think im covered there too. But thanks for everyones help!!!

 

You usually want to replace the front and rear oil galley plugs, and a new cam retainer plate if it's not too worn from a stock timing set.

ARP bolts are fine in the heads. You said you're reusing the stock pistons, so it would really be overkill. Besides, the machine shop should be torque plate honing the block with the fasteners you're planning on using so it's too late already.

 

Send me a msg ....I'll email you all of your torque specs... I printed them out at work so I would have them when i got ready to rebuild mine.....I have the specs on every bolt that is attached to an ls1


make sure that you replaced the main cap side bolts... they are torque to yield also

 

Darrin, I finally Made it back onto this site,

Nick

 

I was told by my machine shop torque plate honing the block if reusing a stock piston will still leave the cylinders with some high n low spots. There is not much that can be done due to being limited on honing. Is this true?