chris-m

i've a new short motor and a brand new melling pump, does it need centralising around the crank in any particular way before being tightened down ?
i seem to recall the original pump was centralised by putting the front cover/crank pulley on first?

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

first thing i would do is install the pump with all the bolts, tight but not to torq-then trial fit the front cover, as some of the pumps hit the cover if spaced out to clear a double roller chain
if thats ok, rem the front pump plate, i think 7 bolts, and use 2 bolts to hold the pump on to the engine, not real tight, but enough so the pump will move around with light bumping-then use a .020 feeler gauge and stick in the pump in diff spots so it is even all around-then you can locktite the 2 spare bolts and tighten them to 18 ft lbs-pull the other 2 out and do the same, then replace the cover doing the same to them
what your doing is getting the pump even all the way around to center on the crank-you might want to pack the pump with some light grease to help suction of oil on start up also
GM has an install tool for the pump, but im sure a lot of pumps have been thrown on w/o even checking
you also have to center the front cover to the snout, which can be done with the balancer installed w/ the cover-good luck, maybe someone else can add something to this-also remember the rear cover needs an installation tool so the rear seal lip doesnt flip inward

Zitty'sZ

iTrader: (29)

Very good advise except the clearance is .002 not .020 . Also if you disassemble the oil pump the gerotor gears are marked with a dimple, they must face out when you reassemble the pump . You can also lube the pump with engine assembly lube too, it works like a champ !

chris-m

i havent as yet had the front cover off the pump itself to lube it but i will do so. cheers for the above.
i dont have a tool for the rear cover seal, is it absolutely necessary to use one to get it in or can you do it if careful?

JPH

iTrader: (2)

You WILL NEED that tool to install the seal properly.

Procharged99

I just pressed my seal in carefully, it went in pretty easily. Motors not assembled and tested yet though. Why do you need a speial tool to install the rear seal?

JPH

iTrader: (2)

So you push the seal on eveningly all the around so that the inner lip does not roll out. The rear seal is double lipped, the inner seal must be inward(lipping facing toward front of motor) and the rear lip kinda looks like it's rolled out.

chris-m

thats going to be a pain for me if so as not many people do LS engines in the uk or carry service parts/tools for them. wonder if a local vauxhall (GM) dealer might have one for the monaro engines?

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

my bad, your right, .002-memory is a bad thing, lol
as far as the rear seal, once its installed in the rear plate, it needs the tool as the seal/plate goes over the rear crank
a plastic tool comes with the aftermarket seal, i forget if its a felpro one or not, i got it from NAPA, but you might try some autopart store and see if they have the seal/tool combo-you push the tool thru the seal, making sure the lips are where they are supposed to be, then install the plate, and as it goes over the crank, it just pushes the plastic tool out