MaxedOutSS99

Here's the problem, got the cam and everything in. I start the car and she sounds great! But the oil pressure doesn't go up. I rev a bit and it goes up a bit. Rev more goes up a bit more. I get it to 40 by reving it and when i let go it goes back to zero! and stays there. So I would say split O-Ring? or what else could it be?

jmX

That is it...that damn o-ring.

You'll find that you can tear the car apart much quicker the second time around....i bet you can have the o-ring out in under an hour...you'll see.

robertbartsch

...this time, bolt up the pickup tube BEFORE you put the oil pump bolts in the block; this way, the o-ring does not have a chance to get pinched...

kp

iTrader: (34)

Yup, thats what I do now - all it took was one messed up C5 o-ring (my own car of course and C5s are a pain to get apart) to make me spend a little more time with that o-ring.

blu00rdstr

C5? I have the same problem I think. No oil pressure at idle, 12lbs at 2000rpm. The motor is full of ARP assembly lube, pre-filled oil filter, and vasoline-stuffed oil pump.

What's the easiest way to change to O-ring on a C5? Drop suspension and pan, or lower suspension and pull everything off the front?

Sucks big time, I also have a coolant leak from a head gasket.

Tin Indian

QUOTE: "Sucks big time, I also have a coolant leak from a head gasket".

I see that you have a 98 C5. I hope you did not use the new multi-layer head gaskets on those 98 vintage heads.

blu00rdstr

Actually I have a 2000. The new block is a new LS6 honed to 3.905", the cylinder heads are CNC ported LS1 with 71cc chambers. All surfaces were checked for flatness.

The gaskets are cometic .050" LS1 gaskets sprayed with copper gasket spray.

The head studs are ARP 12-pt at 70ft-lbs (retorqued).

The trickle is at the gasket on the passenger side under the first bottom bolt at the front.

Any suggestions are welcome, but I think I have to pull it all apart again.

Tin Indian

I see ... I just asked because the 98 heads have a "witness notch" in them that the later year heads do not. These early heads will leak if they use the GM multi-layer gaskets. They need the graphite style.

But, that would not be a problem in your case.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Its not really that hard on a C5, look at JMX's page for the C5 head/cam swap ( http://www.ls1howto.com/ ), thats pretty much how I do it. Just have to move the rack out of the way. Its a little more of a pain if you have active handling/Z51 and an auto trans but I can have the timing cover off a C5 in about 2.5 hrs after doing a few - its not bad.

MaxedOutSS99

Just to let you guys know it was the O-Ring. But it wasn't pinched. The stock one was too worn out. I really should have bought a new one. The was a dumb mistake on my part. Got a new one and now she is running. I have to say the TR224 sounds great!

Chris D.

I just went through the exact same thing. Replacing this oring should be a must when doing a cam. I dont know how many times I kicked myself for not replacing it the first time I took it apart.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

lol...been there....

when I did my install I looked at the old o-ring and said "it looks good...I'll reuse it..."

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I replaced my O-ring with a new one and have never had any problems. But I have to say the old one looked exactly like the new one; no visible difference or wear, but obviously it there is.

1999_SS_M6

O-rings are just funny like that... If you've been wrenching on cars for any length of time, you learn to just replace by default. For some reason they just don't re-seat well after they've been compressed.

I have done this same thing with oil lines on trucks with oil coolers and such. It's just a good idea to spend 30 bucks and replace the lines, or at least swap the o-rings out to prevent leaks.

MaxedOutSS99

since its pretty much a must to replace an o-ring when doing a oil pump swap, why isnt one sent when you purchase a new oil pump. it should come with one. i think atleast.

Tin Indian

That is exactly what anyone who sells a replacement pump should include.

It's just a "no-brainer", but for some very odd reason, it's not included.

SSactionLs1

is this the metal ring that comes in the cam install/gasket kits? i have one sitting here then..

LS1swap

No it is rubber or sillicone. mine was baby blue in color

blu00rdstr

Thanks kp!

L-EATER

iTrader: (2)

Been there done that on the O-ring. I am rebuilding my 6 liter as we speak and I am proud to say I will have NO MORE O-ring probs!! I removed the factory retainer from the pickup tube and made a new flange with 2 bolt holes instead of the factory one. I took it to the local welding shop and they brazed it up for me. I then made a gasket so the O-rings services are no longer needed. I have a couple pics if someone can post them for everybody to see.