Are titanium retainers necessary in my application??
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,152
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From: Virginia Beach, Va
Are titanium retainers necessary in my application?? So I'm going with a TR224/112 cam for my 02 WS6. I won't be visiting the track much...it is strictly a street car that I like to have fun with. I spoke with Shane at Thunder Racing yesterday and we concluded that I would be ok running a Comp 918 or PAC 1518 beehive spring because of the low lift on the cam. I don't want to get into a single vs. dual valve spring debate, but I have read about several incidents of 918s breaking. I know Comp had a bad batch of 918s before, but I believe there have also been several reported incidents of the new revised 918s breaking. I would like to think that the failure of the revised 918s is due to improper setup, too high of a lift on the cam, or simply spinning the motor too high. Shane also said a titanium retainer would not be necessary unless I would be spinning the motor super high. I will probably be shifting at or around 6200-6400 rpms. So we decided I would be ok with the stock retainers and locks. Any advice or suggestions on my valve spring and retainer choice??
Last edited by Raise; Oct 1, 2008 at 07:55 AM.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 212
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From: NC
1518 is a better spring over the 918 because of the nitriding and better material.
But to answer your question on the retainer, I don't feel the Ti. is worth the extra money. The weight difference is tiny.
But to answer your question on the retainer, I don't feel the Ti. is worth the extra money. The weight difference is tiny.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,152
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, Va
Sorry to hi-jack your thread...maybe I can get an answer on here since we are discussing valves springs....
For instance a dual spring...does the spring seat/pad on the cylinder head need to be machined to accept a dual valve spring or are there sets that fit in the stock location?
I'll be doing a stock head LQ4 6.0 build using the stock heads (budget build/swap) and a "mild" cam like a TR224, and wondering what springs to go with as well.....
Thanks!
For instance a dual spring...does the spring seat/pad on the cylinder head need to be machined to accept a dual valve spring or are there sets that fit in the stock location?
I'll be doing a stock head LQ4 6.0 build using the stock heads (budget build/swap) and a "mild" cam like a TR224, and wondering what springs to go with as well.....
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,152
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, Va
Sorry to hi-jack your thread...maybe I can get an answer on here since we are discussing valves springs....
For instance a dual spring...does the spring seat/pad on the cylinder head need to be machined to accept a dual valve spring or are there sets that fit in the stock location?
I'll be doing a stock head LQ4 6.0 build using the stock heads (budget build/swap) and a "mild" cam like a TR224, and wondering what springs to go with as well.....
Thanks!
For instance a dual spring...does the spring seat/pad on the cylinder head need to be machined to accept a dual valve spring or are there sets that fit in the stock location?
I'll be doing a stock head LQ4 6.0 build using the stock heads (budget build/swap) and a "mild" cam like a TR224, and wondering what springs to go with as well.....
Thanks!
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,152
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From: Virginia Beach, Va
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: NC
Is this true? 
Ive talked with Vengence Racing, Predetor-Z and Patrick G. All very knowledgable people. I run my cam VRx4 228/230 @ 112, the lift is slightly under .600 and I run a newer comp 918 spring w/ no issues and spin regularly above 6k. I used my stock 36k mile steel/factory retainers.
The point was if you were running a dual spring like a patriot or a comp 987, you have a LARGE retainer, the beehive's retainer is much smaller to begin with so the we less grams you have isnt worth the cost and your not going to see the difference. You will need rod bolts well before that.
As for Ti, its as strong if not stronger and lighter then steel, but MORE brittled and prone to wear.
The point was if you were running a dual spring like a patriot or a comp 987, you have a LARGE retainer, the beehive's retainer is much smaller to begin with so the we less grams you have isnt worth the cost and your not going to see the difference. You will need rod bolts well before that.
As for Ti, its as strong if not stronger and lighter then steel, but MORE brittled and prone to wear.
you wont have a problem using the stock retainers and spinning it to 6200. ive always used titanium retainers because they weigh almost nothing and i was able to find new comps for $75, so why not.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,152
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From: Virginia Beach, Va
Im thinking of running the PAC 1218. They are good to .600 lift and my cam is well under that. Plus I have searched and searched and can't find a single incident of a PAC breaking.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,152
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, Va
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,152
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, Va
I like single, beehive springs because of the better harmonics that they afford and lower overall weight. The problems with the 918s started when Comp left PAC and had them made elsewhere. I would go with the higher lift PAC's because if you decide to go bigger lift you could without having to change springs.
As for the Ti retainers, every gram counts in my book when it comes to valvetrain stability. It's like pushrods, could you reuse stock ones, yeah, but for $100 I'd rather have a hardened steel pushrod.
As for the Ti retainers, every gram counts in my book when it comes to valvetrain stability. It's like pushrods, could you reuse stock ones, yeah, but for $100 I'd rather have a hardened steel pushrod.