Crank sensor. low voltage car misfires
#1
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SPRINGFIELD MISSOURI
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just installed a motor in my car I went to fire it and it would not stay started it started misfiring.
It throwing the crankshaft code A low voltage. I put a new crank shaft sensor in and that didnt work.
We delted the code and started it back up it ran fine for 10sec. then back to the same thing and it threw the code again.
any ideas.
I check the coils and #1 #2# 5 are not hitting at all.
It throwing the crankshaft code A low voltage. I put a new crank shaft sensor in and that didnt work.
We delted the code and started it back up it ran fine for 10sec. then back to the same thing and it threw the code again.
any ideas.
I check the coils and #1 #2# 5 are not hitting at all.
Last edited by dnkynrbk; 10-02-2008 at 09:30 PM.
#5
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do you have the tools to check runout on the crank reluctor wheel?
__________________
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic110569_2.gif)
Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic110569_2.gif)
Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
#6
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sensor connector pinouts:
A - yellow to PCM C1 44 outut signal to PCM from sensor
B - yellow/black to PCM C2 22 low reference (ground)
C - light green from PCM - 12 volt signal - PCM C2 62
Since it does fire, I would lean towards taking the starter off and the crank sensor out to look thu the hole to see if the reluctor ring is bent or damaged.
From the manual
The following conditions may cause this DTC to set:
- Poor connections/terminal tension at the sensor. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis In Wiring Systems.
- Crankshaft reluctor wheel damage or improper installation.
- The sensor coming in contact with the reluctor wheel.
- The engine running out of fuel.
- If the crankshaft rotates backwards, this DTC sets. This condition is only with vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. This condition can occur when a vehicle is on an incline and the clutch is released and an engine stall occurs.
• Excessive crankshaft end play will cause the CKP sensor reluctor wheel to move out of alignment with the CKP sensor. This could result in any one of the following:
- A no start
- A start and stall
- Erratic performance
• An improperly installed propeller shaft could cause excess crankshaft end play. Refer to Propeller Shaft Diagnosis in Engine Mechanical.
• Using Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can aid in determining how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also aid determining how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed.
• For an intermittent, refer to Symptoms .
A - yellow to PCM C1 44 outut signal to PCM from sensor
B - yellow/black to PCM C2 22 low reference (ground)
C - light green from PCM - 12 volt signal - PCM C2 62
Since it does fire, I would lean towards taking the starter off and the crank sensor out to look thu the hole to see if the reluctor ring is bent or damaged.
From the manual
The following conditions may cause this DTC to set:
- Poor connections/terminal tension at the sensor. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis In Wiring Systems.
- Crankshaft reluctor wheel damage or improper installation.
- The sensor coming in contact with the reluctor wheel.
- The engine running out of fuel.
- If the crankshaft rotates backwards, this DTC sets. This condition is only with vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. This condition can occur when a vehicle is on an incline and the clutch is released and an engine stall occurs.
• Excessive crankshaft end play will cause the CKP sensor reluctor wheel to move out of alignment with the CKP sensor. This could result in any one of the following:
- A no start
- A start and stall
- Erratic performance
• An improperly installed propeller shaft could cause excess crankshaft end play. Refer to Propeller Shaft Diagnosis in Engine Mechanical.
• Using Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can aid in determining how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also aid determining how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed.
• For an intermittent, refer to Symptoms .
#7
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SPRINGFIELD MISSOURI
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I tried putting a tiny washer in there to shim it and also took the rubber from aroud the plug so it would snap in to the sensor tight and that didnt work either. I dont have the tools to check the reluctor ring. I pulled all the wiring out and check the wiring from the computer to the sensor it all look fire I also cleaned the conector and took the rubber out of it so it would snap firmly into the sensor.
Im going today to get a voltage tester. Im out of options besides it being the reluctor wheel.
Im going today to get a voltage tester. Im out of options besides it being the reluctor wheel.
Last edited by dnkynrbk; 10-03-2008 at 12:01 PM.
Trending Topics
#13
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
WHERE IS THE CONCLUSION!!! I'm having a similar problem. I'm only seeing 10.6 volts from wire A to C though with the koeo. Is this normal? Acceptable? I have recently swapped an LS1 into a G-body, done with the swap, but the engine will only run for a few seconds.