willyfastz

Yeah I know they do, I had a T-Rex myself. I tune and drive cars with these cams in them all the time. So I know how these cams perform at the track and on the street. At the track they do pretty good but if your honest with yourself you know they're not the best street cams around. I just hate seeing guys compromise drivability for a peek dyno #.

If the guy wants a T-Rex or MS cam he should get it, but if he wants a GOOD daily driver then he should open his option list a little

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

Sure he was, re-read his post (added below so you don't have to search far.) He posted what he wanted in 2 different posts.


You can look and see the dyno graph from our engine dyno time where the stock camshaft made better power down-low than any other camshaft tested. Does that make it better for a DD street car??? Should everyone stay stock because of it? NO. I've said it a million times here as well that there are better camshafts for many DD folks, and that the MS4 is a race cam designed to pull all the peak power possible from the stock long-block.

The fact is that on a roll race the OP is asking about, with the proper combo of gear/stall in the car, there is VERY little need for massive power under 4K RPM. And then comes your argument of needing gear/stall to run an MS4. OF COURSE YOU NEED MORE GEAR/STALL FOR RACING!

See yall at the race!

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

I am actually looking for the same type of camshaft except my car is light, only about 2600lbs it has 4.10 gears and a 25" tire. So its pretty short final drive ratio. I dont want to lose from a roll.

I dont daily drive the car and its more a weekend/race car and I dont mind having a rough ride. I just need to be able to take off from a stop light witout stalling every other time, and be able to inch through a drive through without stalling. The other requirement is that I need to be able to go into 6th gear on the highway at 75-80mph and not have any bucking.

Some bucking and stalling is to be expected but if its something I learn and adapt my driving style to, so that it happens only if I'm not paying attention.. then thats fine. But if I adapt my driving sytle to the car and learn to drive it and its still stalling unexpectedly.. then thats too wild for me.

I will be going SD tune more than likely I would assume

HaulinHawk

X3 here #'s dont lie,pulls ike a raped ape up top and thats in an auto in my case.

willyfastz

Just have someone spec you a good cam and you wont have to adapt your driving style. The two cams in this thread can be tuned to not stall at stop lights and such. You can get most of the bucking out also, but I don't fill that a 239 intake duration or bigger cam is needed in a stock cube street car.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Yeah thats what I'm planning on doing this winter. I had Slowhawk do an initial tune on my car to get it up and running. Once I can drive it around I am gonna have him finnish it up. This winter I am going cam/intake and I'm probably going to have him do a custom cam. I just hope it gets the job done, because hes a fan of smaller cams rather than larger cams and on the street from a roll it seems like the guy with the bigger cam always seems to pull away.. There are exceptions of course, I am just speaking very generally.

I trust his judgement, and deff realize the tuner knows more than me.

blown03mustang

im the same way....i think donkey dick cams are a waste for anything other than race cars. but the OPs original post said that he wanted a "roll" race cam, which to me power under the curve is irrellevent in this case and peak hp is where its at. ms4 or trex would be good options as well as a custom ground cam. either way peak hp is a must in his case

eamador11

224/228@114 cam..big power under the curve is what you need

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

friend has a f13 and 5.3s.. along with supporting mods, as intake stall gears..

i have ms4 and 90/90.. no heads....

i trap about half a mph faster than him...

i LOVE my ms4.. if you have a good tuner the street driving isnt a problem... i DD mine aout 50-60 miles every single day... no bucking stalling jerking or anything or that nature.. sounds sick and pulls like a freight train up top.. where most small cams die off around 100 or so some of the bigger cams just start coming to life.. roll races.. ms4.. DD.. ms4.. track.. ms4...

and of course i am biases but i have only seen good things from this cam... DD it dynoing it taking it to the track... whatever.. it has went beyong expectations..

XLR8N

iTrader: (3)

What MPH are you wanting to roll from? That has alot to do with cam selection aswell. A 30 roll with an MS4 and stock rear = losing money to that 16 year old in the honda. Theres nothing more embarassing than trying to wait for your rpms to climb so you can make power.
A 30 roll with MS4 and gears = losing money to the guy with a mild cam. While your spinning your hard earned dollars away in tires he's a football field ahead and thats alot of ground to make up.

Oh and to the guy that does every type of racing in his MS4 only car good for you, I'm glad you like to lose mid range during auto x. Do a cam swap and watch your times drop considerably. Have you owned anything other than an MS4? It's time to get the ***** off your chin buddy.

The point is there are more than just monster cams out there and alot of them are making some damn good power. If you wants whats best for you then get one made for you. Listen to the guys that do this **** for a living, not an overpaid salesman force feeding products down your throat.

CraZee ZO6

wow your a total fool bro.. shoot yourself.

CraZee ZO6

oh just noticed this fool is a self proclaimed tuner... thats why he hates on the bigger cams. Bigger cams and tuning becomes KEY. If you cant tune stick with small cams...like this monkey

CraZee ZO6

definitely not for roll racing (roll racing is gay) or any type of racing like the OP posted.

if you want to pull a trailer you need downlow power like your baby 224/228 cam


lol take a small cam and a big cam start them from a slow roll in 2nd at 1500rpm and watch the big cam just walk away even with all that "loss" of downlow power. no there is no loss, about the same and just a bigger hit in the middle and up top with a properly spec'd bigger cam. My cam is around 23x/24x 600 lift 113.5lsa (cant share custom spec) and let me tell you.. I have a massive hit at 3500rpms all the torque I need. Cant even hook up. Above that to 7k just lovely.

GT Griller

iTrader: (8)

WTF kind of racing is that?...lol

XLR8N

iTrader: (3)

Thats really funny cause in my 4500lbs 4wd brick I put bus lengths on my buddys T/A. He has an LS6 intake, lid, full exhaust and the end all be all MS4. See my mods in sig. Pick an MPH and ill pull 4-5 cars, in fact at a 70 roll I'll pull 5-6 cars all the way to 130. With the bottle it's like 8-9 cars.

Oh CraZee06 congrats on being the post ***** of the day!!!!

Prerun4fun13

iTrader: (6)

i would say there is something wrong with ur friends car if u can put 5 cars on him... Is it a stick car or auto?? If stick he cant drive, if auto prob no stall. I am willing to bet my big cam car can handle ur tiny cam truck hahaha

ls1 1990 VN

I now use a 222/222 cam. i had a 231/237 the smaller cam has a huge amount more torque. on the racing circuit i gained 6 sec, don't know about the strip yet but it pulls way smoother and harder up to 6500rpm

HaulinHawk

Me too!!!!

CraZee ZO6

how is that any kind of comparision!? LMAO

your comparing your truck with HEADS and other mods vs a CAR with diff mods and a ms4 cam no heads..ls1 heads. thats a horrible combo. I find it funny people who put big cams on stock heads that dont flow, thats a bad combo.
you need a MATCHING cam to matching heads. Got heads that flow big then you can run a bigger cam, simple as that and you will see big benefits at the end.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

I don't know ***** personally but I know of a few cars around here he has tuned and he did a nice job. I assure you he is no monkey