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interesting crankcase pressure problem..thoughts?

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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 08:40 PM
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Default interesting crankcase pressure problem..thoughts?

ok, so I had a 416 short built by Scoggin Dickey last summer and now have 3500 miles on it. L92 heads, L76 intake, medium size cam. it runs awesome, but I am still having oil consumption problems. It has been getting a little better, but still uses a good half quart every 500 miles or so.

But here is my real concern...I got it out today an ran it around for a while, so it was at full temp. I railed on it in a couple gears and let off....The cloud of smoke behind me would have covered cars to the point they would prob crash cuz they couldnt see. It did it a few times. I looked under the hood, and the dipstick keeps blowing out shooting oil all over. Whats with this huge pressure? its never done that before. It also has always ran very hot. The coolant temp has never gone over 195 but even in 15 degree weather the oil temp stays at 215 even on easy driving. It was up to 250 in the summer with just a couple pulls in 2 gears.

can this all be related? Its driving me nuts and just want the oil burning crap to stop.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:22 AM
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What sort of PCV setup do you run?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
What sort of PCV setup do you run?
whatever it is it sounds like it hasn't been working right. I use about a half-pint every 5000 miles (in the catch can).

Maybe the hose that is connected to the intake is clogged? PCV Valve?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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i dont even use a PCV valve. I just have the catch can ran with regular hose.

one off the intake to the can. the other going to the valley cover.

then off the valve cover I have a breather. should it be different?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 12:01 PM
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ok, what does your oil look like when you change it?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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Got any pics?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 02:51 PM
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Baffle over the opening in the valley cover?
How much oil/how frequently do you empty the can?
Have you done a leakdown and compression test?
Oil temp seems high. [Assuming gauge is correct]
Does engine run w/ high oil psi?
Pull the t/b, and take a look, and see if the walls are wet w/oil.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GMCHammer
Got any pics?
of what?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BadAction
ok, what does your oil look like when you change it?
just looks black, like normal
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Geezer
Baffle over the opening in the valley cover?
How much oil/how frequently do you empty the can?
Have you done a leakdown and compression test?
Oil temp seems high. [Assuming gauge is correct]
Does engine run w/ high oil psi?
Pull the t/b, and take a look, and see if the walls are wet w/oil.
what baffle?
hardley any in the catch can. maybe half inch deep of oil
no, not yet...if its fukked, it just means my rings are crap yes?
its a 2002 C5, was always right when I had the LS1, so nothing has changed as far as the sensor or gauge
oil pressure is perfect. at cruise its about 41 and at WOT it reaches maybe 65-70
its been blowing oil and eating it, so yes the walls in the intake are wet
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 04:21 PM
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sounds like the rings are toast in some way or another. don't just do a compression test, do a leakdown test, it'll tell you the real condition of the ring/cylinder seal.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BadAction
sounds like the rings are toast in some way or another. don't just do a compression test, do a leakdown test, it'll tell you the real condition of the ring/cylinder seal.
ill do it when the weather gets better here....i dont understand why the rings would have never seated right...they are C&A rings
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by VGLNTE1
ill do it when the weather gets better here....i dont understand why the rings would have never seated right...they are C&A rings

Cap off the vacuum port at the intake. I have my valley cover tied to my passenger side valve cover with a breather "t"d inbetween. One small breather on the nipple at the rear of the driver's side valve cover and one large breather on the oil fill neck.

You're still gonna want to check the leakdown as this wont help if you are getting severe blowby around your rings.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 05:19 PM
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You HAVE to get the P in your PCV setup. You HAVE to have positive ventilation, that's why it goes to the TB. Almost any build will consume a decent amount of oil when there is no positive crankcase vent. In the line between the intake and valley cover with the catch can, you need a PCV valve. Otherwise it suck oil straight through the catch can line when WOT and consumption will be high.

To people recommending it, venting to the atmosphere is absolutely not sufficient.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by VGLNTE1
of what?
Wanted to see how you had your PCV setup.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Scoggin Dickey
You HAVE to get the P in your PCV setup. You HAVE to have positive ventilation, that's why it goes to the TB. Almost any build will consume a decent amount of oil when there is no positive crankcase vent. In the line between the intake and valley cover with the catch can, you need a PCV valve. Otherwise it suck oil straight through the catch can line when WOT and consumption will be high.

To people recommending it, venting to the atmosphere is absolutely not sufficient.
X2.
Also, you may have run the engine with excessive amts of oil on the cyl walls, long enough that the rings did not seat.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Scoggin Dickey
You HAVE to get the P in your PCV setup. You HAVE to have positive ventilation, that's why it goes to the TB. Almost any build will consume a decent amount of oil when there is no positive crankcase vent. In the line between the intake and valley cover with the catch can, you need a PCV valve. Otherwise it suck oil straight through the catch can line when WOT and consumption will be high.

To people recommending it, venting to the atmosphere is absolutely not sufficient.
where should I put the P at? which line? and what should I buy? just a stock LS6 one?
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 09:32 AM
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I dont like putting that **** back in my intake. I actually just had the tubes welded into my exhaust for a crankcase evac setup yesterday. I am going to go and install the plumbing in a few. I have true dual 3" exhaust with bullets on my car so it SHOULD work well. Everything I've read and every person that I've talked too says that it wont work with exhaust that has any kind of back pressure (i.e. chambered muffler). We'll see.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I dont like putting that **** back in my intake. I actually just had the tubes welded into my exhaust for a crankcase evac setup yesterday. I am going to go and install the plumbing in a few. I have true dual 3" exhaust with bullets on my car so it SHOULD work well. Everything I've read and every person that I've talked too says that it wont work with exhaust that has any kind of back pressure (i.e. chambered muffler). We'll see.
so you remade the AIR tubes?
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I dont like putting that **** back in my intake. I actually just had the tubes welded into my exhaust for a crankcase evac setup yesterday. I am going to go and install the plumbing in a few. I have true dual 3" exhaust with bullets on my car so it SHOULD work well. Everything I've read and every person that I've talked too says that it wont work with exhaust that has any kind of back pressure (i.e. chambered muffler). We'll see.
The problem with using that type of crank case evac, is it's intended for race cars that spend all their time at higher rpms. Under normal street driving, you just don't have the exhaust velocity to pull very hard on the crank case.
I know everyone thinks these systems are the ****, but what works on a race car, does not always work on a street car.
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