View Poll Results: Alluminum LS1 or Iron 6.0
Alluminum 346 LS1
43
44.79%
Iron 364 LQ4
53
55.21%
Voters: 96. You may not vote on this poll
Alluminum vs Iron
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: altoona,pa
If u r building over 600 hp, I would suggest you go w the lq4. I would never say the aluminum block couldn't handle that power for long, as there would be a thousand guys on here saying thats what they are running. I have an lq4 that I am running in my truck w ls3 heads and I have no worries of the bottom end going and taking my block w it. they are about a seventy # weight dif, but bigger bore can make up for that w torque all over the chart.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: west coast
If u r building over 600 hp, I would suggest you go w the lq4. I would never say the aluminum block couldn't handle that power for long, as there would be a thousand guys on here saying thats what they are running. I have an lq4 that I am running in my truck w ls3 heads and I have no worries of the bottom end going and taking my block w it. they are about a seventy # weight dif, but bigger bore can make up for that w torque all over the chart.
Here is some info that can help in here..
LS1- 346ci 5.7l
LS2- 364ci 6.0l
LQ4/9-364ci 6.0l
402- 6.6l, it's a 6.0l with a 4" Stroke Crank, 4.000" Bore
408- 6.7l, it's a 6.0l with a 4" Stroke Crank, 4.030" Bore.
Weight difference between an Aluminum Block and Iron Block is about 84lbs..that is the number I have seen in quite a few places researching it.
As fas as durability..I bet I can beat the **** out of my Iron 408 and it will hold up longer than any Aluminum Block.
LS1- 346ci 5.7l
LS2- 364ci 6.0l
LQ4/9-364ci 6.0l
402- 6.6l, it's a 6.0l with a 4" Stroke Crank, 4.000" Bore
408- 6.7l, it's a 6.0l with a 4" Stroke Crank, 4.030" Bore.
Weight difference between an Aluminum Block and Iron Block is about 84lbs..that is the number I have seen in quite a few places researching it.
As fas as durability..I bet I can beat the **** out of my Iron 408 and it will hold up longer than any Aluminum Block.
actually lighter isn't always better when it comes to handling. in 04 they tested a bullit a mach one and cobra mustangs. the best handleing was the bullit with a iron block and heads followed by the mach one with a iron block and al heads then the cobra with al block and heads. the 600foot slalom speeds were almost 2mph different between the three car's.
To the OP if you haven't noticed by now you should realize that all the guys running Alum. blocks are telling you to run Alum. all the guys running Iron are obviously telling you to run Iron. Everyone chose what they're running *hopefully* because it suited their purpose.
Here is what you have to do, figure out what purpose you want the engine to serve.
Alright first off you want to hit 650 rwhp in a daily driver thats an issue in itself but reserved for a different time. Both blocks are "capable" of this no questions asked... however no questions about it an Iron block can do it safer and cheaper. Alum. Can aswell but it will require an LS2 or better block to do it safely.
If you're looking for reliable, daily driving, occasional drag racing performance on a budget no questions asked get the Iron block. If you're at all concerned with handling, and an overall better more comfortable ride quality and have the extra bucks to accomplish it. Go with the Alum.
You will get people on both sides saying how one is better then the other but again I stress its all in what you want to do and what money you want to spend doing it. I guarantee both engine types have seen the goals you're trying to hit without issues.
Here is what you have to do, figure out what purpose you want the engine to serve.
Alright first off you want to hit 650 rwhp in a daily driver thats an issue in itself but reserved for a different time. Both blocks are "capable" of this no questions asked... however no questions about it an Iron block can do it safer and cheaper. Alum. Can aswell but it will require an LS2 or better block to do it safely.
If you're looking for reliable, daily driving, occasional drag racing performance on a budget no questions asked get the Iron block. If you're at all concerned with handling, and an overall better more comfortable ride quality and have the extra bucks to accomplish it. Go with the Alum.
You will get people on both sides saying how one is better then the other but again I stress its all in what you want to do and what money you want to spend doing it. I guarantee both engine types have seen the goals you're trying to hit without issues.
actually lighter isn't always better when it comes to handling. in 04 they tested a bullit a mach one and cobra mustangs. the best handleing was the bullit with a iron block and heads followed by the mach one with a iron block and al heads then the cobra with al block and heads. the 600foot slalom speeds were almost 2mph different between the three car's.
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Wow this thread got resurrected from the dead. I went with an LQ4 and a Procharger. I've tied up a hell of alot of money in this build and decided the car will never again be a daily driver. IMHO the iron block will handle a F1 Procharger a hell of alot more reliably than an aluminum block. So far I couldn't be happier with my decision. My ride height up front didnt seem to change, I have a HELL of alot more power than I had with my LS1, and besides a 9" with a full spool my ride quality hasn't really seemed to change.
Ive been running the aluminum LS2 block bored .030 over (4.030") for four years now and with a 350 shot of nitrous off the line at the track, and a lot of hard runs shifting a 7400 rpms,And street running. The LS2 is a very strong block, Im proof of that, and its still going strong, Im now starting a new build with the new LS3 aluminum block with it bored to.030" (4.095) = 431cid.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
From: Shillington PA
Ive been running the aluminum LS2 block bored .030 over (4.030") for four years now and with a 350 shot of nitrous off the line at the track, and a lot of hard runs shifting a 7400 rpms,And street running. The LS2 is a very strong block, Im proof of that, and its still going strong, Im now starting a new build with the new LS3 aluminum block with it bored to.030" (4.095) = 431cid.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: west coast
Alluminum, is that one of those new high performance metals? 
I would go with the iron 6.0 block. You can do a lot more with that wider bore. After hearing about oiling problems common to the 383s I am not sure I would want to go that route. What heads do you plan on running on it? 243 will make your compression high, the 317 are good for boost. And you can always run L92 heads...
I would go with the iron 6.0 block. You can do a lot more with that wider bore. After hearing about oiling problems common to the 383s I am not sure I would want to go that route. What heads do you plan on running on it? 243 will make your compression high, the 317 are good for boost. And you can always run L92 heads...
I agree the LS2 is a strong block. Take it a step further and add the ERL superdeck system with 6 bolt heads and it simply blows the iron blocks out of the water. For a forced induction application there really is no contest with the trusses they build into the block and the six bolt heads. Like an earlier post stated, its all about what your intended use will be. Why spend money where you dont need to. Unless you are crazy about shaving weight, I would stick with iron at your power level.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
If you're arguing weight, it doesn't take a whole lot of effort to take 84 lbs out of a street car. If its purely race, it may cost you for some 7071 parts here and some carbon there, a dash of Titanium, but it can be taken out.
if 60-80lbs of weight (and block strength, mind you) really bothers you ... then you probably have other things to worry about before weight... mind you, the LQ4 and LY6 run really low compression so you either get the benefit of running low octane fuel (less costly to operate) or the benefit of being able to run 8+psi through the thing.
Originally Posted by Randy WS6
Ive been running the aluminum LS2 block bored .030 over (4.030") for four years now and with a 350 shot of nitrous off the line at the track, and a lot of hard runs shifting a 7400 rpms,And street running. The LS2 is a very strong block, Im proof of that, and its still going strong, Im now starting a new build with the new LS3 aluminum block with it bored to.030" (4.095) = 431cid.
It took you a 350 shot to run 6.50's in the 1/8th... LOLs What are you running it in... a ****** tank?
^^^^^
Now That's Funny LoL!
Ive been running the aluminum LS2 block bored .030 over (4.030") for four years now and with a 350 shot of nitrous off the line at the track, and a lot of hard runs shifting a 7400 rpms,And street running. The LS2 is a very strong block, Im proof of that, and its still going strong, Im now starting a new build with the new LS3 aluminum block with it bored to.030" (4.095) = 431cid.
It took you a 350 shot to run 6.50's in the 1/8th... LOLs What are you running it in... a ****** tank?
^^^^^
Now That's Funny LoL!