I've got oil, radiator fluid, brake and clutch fluid. I routed all the plugs and connectors as best i could and they all have a place. I'm pretty sure eveything is in the correct spot simply because they really wont reach anywhere else once the harnesses are in their respective spots.

moving along......

My batt. was dead and I had it charged for an hour and a half then put it under load at the shop and it was at 4 amps and falling. So I bought a red top Optima. The entire car has power but when I turn the key it won’t crank i.e. dead silence. All my instruments, gauges, headlights, dome lights, etc... work. So I figured it was the starter. I pulled it out and had it bench tested. Works fine. There are two wires that connect to the starter, one for the solenoid and one for the starter itself. The smaller of the two won't get power when it’s on the car……. I was told it should be hot all the time. I traced the wire back to the started relay under the hood. Pulled that fuse and tested it. The fuse is good but the spot its plugs into is not getting power. I checked it with a test light. No diagnostic tools are able to read anything either through the obd2... Furthermore when I turn the ignition key forward, usually you can hear the walbro in tank priming. I don’t hear it anymore so I check the fuse for the fuel pump, its fine also… Is there anyway to tell if a fuseable link is broken without tearing into a bunch of different wire bundles and if i find one broken how difficult are they to change out....plz help

 

computer failure?

 

how can i test the computer to be for sure....it was working when i pulled the motor out

 

Sounds like a bad ignition switch, that small wire on the starter should only be hot when you turn the key to crank. Is the walbro wired to key on power thats possibly tied to the ignition switch? Doesn't sound like a bad computer just simply a wiring problem, could be as simple as a bad ground somewhere. Did you recheck the grounds on the block?

 

I'm at work right now.. but as soon as i can get back to her, that the first thing on the list to check " grounds " There is a mount bracket for my passenger side manifold that bolts up via the same bolt hole that the ground goes on in front of the block. I can't mentally see it right now but I think i might have put the ground on top of the bracket instead of flush against the block. I figured there both metal and should ground all the same... guess i was wrong. Man i hope thats all it is !

 

Do you have all the grounds connected to the engine?

 

Check your grounds like you said, but if you still have no crank, you're going to need to diagnose your wiring.

Get a voltmeter, and make sure you have a constant (all the time) 12V going to the B+ terminal on the starter. Thats the large one with the heavy gauge wire. Then have someone turn the key and see if you're getting 12V to the S terminal. The S terminal is the smaller terminal that goes to the ignition switch. If you have 12V at the S terminal when the key is turned, its most likely a ground issue. If you turn the key and have nothing on the S terminal then its a wiring issue. Trace the S terminal wire back to the ignition switch and see where you're losing the voltage.

 

Thanx alot this is very helpful. At least i have a plan. Will a test light work for this or do i need to purchase a voltmeter?

 

how many engine grounds are there?

also I figured that the S terminal wire had to be getting power b/c I let the two touch once and it thru sparks everywhere. And thats without me cranking the ignition...

 

A test light will work, but it only tells you that there is current (amperage), not how much voltage you have. So you'll just have to assume you have the correct voltage.

The S terminal should ONLY be hot when you have the key in the START position. At all other times it should have no voltage. The B+ terminal (thick wire, goes to battery) should have 12V at all times. The B+ will spark like crazy if it touches ground (case, other wires, frame, ect). The exposed wire at the bottom of the solenoid just carries power from the solenoid to the starter motor, don't worry about that one.

 

I am not sure of the number of grounds but the ones that people always forget about are the the ones on the aft driverside cylinder head. it's hard to see from the top, but you can get eys on them from under the car. there should be three of them on the back of the head two on them connected to one bolt and the other all by it's self.

 

The big wire bundle that goes alone the firewall behind the heads has what i think is a ground connection that goes from the wire bundle to the block. I didnt think it was, because the metal piece that bolts to the block attaches to the wire bundle via this plastic bracket. I didnt think it would be possible to ground through plastic! But either way i think you might be right about this area and i will check it out. Are these three grounds all on the driver side? thanx

 

Ok here's the deal
upon closer inspection we found that there is no check engine light at all with key on. Starting with the first row of fuses closest to the firewall in the engine bay, they have no power. Looks to us that there must be a fuseable link broken somewhere. Does anyone know where to find where these fuses draw their power, and possibly a list of where all the pertaining fuseable links are located. So i don't have to tear my car apart

 

Bump............

 

BUMP
Ok here's the deal
upon closer inspection we found that there is no check engine light at all with key on. No power to purple starter wire when key is turned to "on" or "start"
Starting with the first row of fuses closest to the firewall in the engine bay, they have no power

(15A inj/ign. , 15A inj/ign., 15A eng/sensor, and 15A Auto trans.)

Looks to us that there must be a fusiable link broken somewhere. Does anyone know where to find where these fuses draw their power, and possibly a list of where all the pertaining fusiable links are located. So i dont have to tear my car apart.. plz help

 

Well i finally broke down and took the car to a shop. They yanked my ECM and found it to be fried. It was no longer supplying a ground and my tune is gone too. So i guess im in the market for a new ECM... Please chime in if anyone knows of a good vendor or deals i can take advantage of. Also i was told that when u purchase a new ECM, it needs to be re-married with the VIN on the car for security reason etc. Can this be accomplished via HPTuners or do I have to go to the dealership.

 

Dont know if my ECM can be recovered or the info on it. I sent it off and will kno more (hopefully this week) does anyone one kno about re-marrying to the vin VIA HP TUNERS !? bump

 

You can do all of that in EFILive easily. Not sure about HPTuners, but any shop that will do your tune will be able to do it without any extra charges (as it takes 5 mins to do).

 

well thats promising... hope HPTUNERS can do all that too... time will tell. Has anyone had any dealings with jesse from (wait4meperformance). Out of Indiana