venom ws7

iTrader: (13)

The car is C6 ZO6 Boltons - Cammed getting a new clutch and flywheel

So what's better for highway runs 160+mph Steel or Aluminum???





THANKS in advance.



Hussam.

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

i would got with an aluminum, because it is a naturally aspirated motor. but if you had a turbo then you go steel.

davidws6

iTrader: (36)

If you want to keep decent clutch engagement without revving up the engine to take off, go steel.

Been there done that and ripped out the alum and went with steel.

I also tried a 13lb steel and ripped it out for a regular weight steel.

claytonisbob

iTrader: (1)

Steel. I think way too many people go aluminum and switch back as its not all its cracked up to be on the street.

RPMs drop off too fast so it takes a lot more effort for a smooth shift. At high speeds I'd want something you can have smoother gear transitions.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Good post!

Robin L

Yes if you want the clutch to engage so your mom or girlfriend can drive stay with the stock iron flywheel.

If you have a gear and any mods your going to benifit (acceleration) from losing up to 15 pounds by going with an aluminum flywheel.

I have aleady changed the flywheel in my 2010 Camaro to a Fidanza Aluminum LS1 style flywheel and a Clutchmasters clutch.

Robin

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I wouldn't exactly put it that way but yes dropping 15lbs off the drive-train has it benefits

But we see more people being happier in a daily driven street car in traffic with the inertia carried by the heavier flywheel. A weekend warrior or race car is different so you really need to match up your application I think.

Robin L

And that is why the OEM's install heavy as hell flywheels.

My son had a Mustang with a 3.73 gear and HCI. It took a little extra slippin to get it going with the aluminum flywheel. If you were not aware of that you would kill the engine.

Now his GTO has a stock heavy flywheel. It doesn't allow the engine to rev as easy but it's easy to get moving.

If your going to drive it every day and want to give up that much performance you might as well get an automatic

I am a stick guy

Robin

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

met too but I do have to say after driving the 79 z28 for a while now I'm getting used to the auto. I down shift into the corners with it, not sure how good that is for the th350..LOL but it is convenient not having to shift

venom ws7

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the info guys I really appreciated.

One more thing what will give more power on the dyno???

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

^^^ aluminum. less weight for the motor to turn = more power to the wheels

Robin L

Hehe, well yes and no. On an engine dyno with a water brake and a stepped pull both flywheels will show the same amount of power. The water brake creates a load and measures the torque (thus the horsepower) at a given RPM.
The chassis or inertia dyno measures how quickly the drum can be rotated up to speed. It uses a calculation based on the acceleration of the drum.

Some chasis dynos also can load the drum to simulate more or less load. On say a dynojet 248 the drum is 48" in diameter and unless you apply the brake the load is the weight of the drum verses how fast you can accelerate that drum.

So because the aluminum flywheel is less mass to accelerate it will (and does) show up in the form of additional horsepower.

We have seen the same thing with other components. Oil pumps, water pumps, underdrive pulleys and individual cylinder fuel or ignition timing.

We use both dynos as tools. It's interesting what you can learn from each type.

We did a story about inertia and Aluminum verses Steel flywheels several years ago with David Vizard.
It was printed in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords then again in Popular Hot Rodding. If you talk to the guys at Fidanza they may have reprints they could send to you.

Robin

venom ws7

iTrader: (13)

Thanks a lot for the info Robin very helpful.





Hussam,

twelver12

iTrader: (3)

Steel steel steel steel steel steel steel steeel steeeeel steeeeeel

duh duh duh duh duh duh

aluminum = ricer... gee light means fast right lol

and unless you tune it for the flywheel expect the car to die often

just my .02 idk how everyone else feels but i dont like them and i dont think the loss is worth the gain

ChucksZ06

iTrader: (9)

I have aluminum in my 403 02 Z and I love it. I have a 248/254 cam and starting out is not a problem...after that it is gravy cause it revs quicker. I also like the fact that it helps the tires hook easier when you drop the clutch cause the engine will pull down for a moment and not blow thru the traction. It has to be easier on the drivetrain.

jw33

iTrader: (8)

Aluminum all the way. They aren't super light like some other applications are and you'll never even know it's there.

tonys02slpss

I went through the same issue when getting new clutch and flywheel and people told me all the stories they said if I had a steel flywheel and I was to drop it to a lower gear the car was going to pull way harder then if I had a aluminum flywheel.Thats came from and old drag racer.Dont know exactly but next time I might try the aluminum the only way you are going to know is to try it,some people like some dont.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

I went with the aluminum Fidanza. Weighs in at 10.5lbs. I forget what stock is, but it's a little more than 22lbs.

I have a 230 cam, which starts and idles fine with the flywheel (was tuned with it). Had my car since new, it's got 30k miles on it. For a street car, I don't care for the billet flywheel.

On a road course, it is a positive piece for sure. Stop light to stop light, steel is the way to go. I will say, that hands down with a steel flywheel.... Acceleration on the highway FEELS better than the aluminum. No hard facts to back it up of course.

Clutch wear will be higher with the aluminum for sure. I had to adjust my shifting for the flywheel radically, which was difficult after all these years. It just depends how much you have invested in a clutch, what material is chosen for the disk(s), and how often you'll drive the car.