Hope some of you would have any suggestions lol because im two steps away from trashing the car for good.

I changed the alternator after having low-voltage issues with my previous alternator after engine warmup, anyways now when I start the vehicle the car idle AND voltage would fluctuate badly going from 400 to 900rpms for say 5-10minutes and stabilize after that, it would do that almost everytime on a cold or semi cold start.

Taking off the alternator and letting the car run off the battery cures the problem. I also tried the stock alternator with no luck, same symptoms.

under cruise voltage seems to be in the 15 volts range if im not mistaken and that sounds like an issue all by itself, wtf >.<

my main question is, why on earth would idle and voltage stabilize after running crap for 10minutes every time?

 

15 volts is not what you should expect out of the stock alt, unless it's being signalled for full output.[Bad batt?]
What's happening with the inj voltage correction?
By using the batt only, could you have removed the alt output, and the inj correction is now stabilized??
Turn off the inj correction, and see.
Have you done some datalogging, to see what's going on??

 

thanks for the good suggestions.

The battery is a new one I just put in, im wondering if replacing the battery with a higher amp unit would be a good thing to do or not, it always seems to be down on power which is noticeable during cranking.

Thats a high amp alternator im talking about a 250amp unit, however the car does this even with the stock amp, did not do this before however.

Its definitely not the alt voltage regulator since both alternators are doing it, but the idea that the battery is constantly signalling being low is another.

Whats pissing me off is why does everything stabilize after a while, I mean it would be easier to diagnose if nothing went back normal, but something that corrects itself? My only reasoning behind why this is happening is that the alt output drops and voltage goes to the sweetspot 13.x volts and everything runs fine.

I will zero the values under all voltages to the values found where the car is most stable in whatever table that has to do with injector flow rate compensation vs volts, lets hope that helps really, but then the high cruise voltage is another thing all by itself.

Ill also disconnect the ecu and let them reconnect it, there might be a bad wire in there, or maybe some crap in there causing some interference.

Anyone else?