BrianSF-GA

Sorry if this topic has been previously addressed, but I have not found any posts with an actual answer. I have an '02 Camaro SS with a SDPC LS2 Aluminum short block 402. The details are in my signature and "garage". I understand engine oil weight is related to the tolerances of the engine builder and forged pistons and flat tappets (although I am running hydraulic rollers) require high zinc and high phosphorous engine oils unlike today's street oils ... I have read the SDPC break-in procedure posted elsewhere on this forum.

As far as climate, I reside in the Atlanta area and my garage does not get below 45 degrees so temperatures will primarily be between 45-95 degrees. This car is a toy and will mainly see drag duty starting this season with some local only street use.

So, what engine oils and weights are you running and where are you finding it?

It would be great if SDPC or, since they completed and tuned the engine, Vengeance Racing would chime in on this thread.

bozzhawg

Pending whatever your engine builder reccomends per tolerances....

I use in my LS2 with a pretty aggressive cam:
VR1 10w-30 synthetic and it is street legal.....
1300-1400ppm ZDDP

and K&N oil filter

I get both from Napa:
Oil filter:HP-1017
Oil part: VAL 679083

goodluck

Bozz

BrianSF-GA

Thanks for the post, but I have never bought into the synthetic engine oils. I guess I am old school that way ... I just can't let my engine oils go over 3,000 miles. In my opinion, unless you let it go 7,500 miles, it is just isn't woth the extra money.

I have sent an email to SDPC's tech support requesting the same, but in the meantime, I have always gotten a great deal of information from this site. So I decided to post here as well.

bozzhawg

Ok, if you want conventional:

VR1 10w-30 conventional street legal

if they say a 40 weight:

15w-40 Cheveron Delo and 1/2 bottle of EOS(GM Dealer) or Lucas ZDDP(Advance Auto)

I have used both before on other engines.......

Bozz

BrianSF-GA

"ismdeuce" ... I have read about Brad Penn online and the specs of ZZDP seem to be in line. Is it available at your local parts store and what are you paying for it? One of my local parts stores carries Valvoline W850, 10W30 NSL Racing Oil for $5.50/qt. which is one of the break-in oils SDPC recommends, so I presume it is also acceptable for regular oil changes.

I realize engine oil weight choice is dependent on the engine builder's bearing clearances, so I am still hoping to hear from SPDC. Is your LS3 a crate motor?

Kevin@Vengeance

iTrader: (11)

If you dont want to run synthetic, I'd run a Valvoline VR1 striaght 30 weight

BrianSF-GA

Thanks "Kevin@Vengeance" ... if I didn't hear back from the engne builder, SDPC, you were my next stop since you originally built up the long-block.

I was also going to contact you about your records ....

Do you maintain mileage records when you complete work on a car? I don't see where it is recorded on the receipts.

Also, do you maintain milling records on the heads you install? I am curious about the compression ratio in this particular engine.

I will say thank you for providing the sales receipts including head flow data to the previous owner.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Don't start now. Synthetic oils are 100% complete BS and a waste of money. There's nothing that NON-synthetic oil can't do, that sythentic oil can "allegedly" do.

Since you have a built engine, simply ask what weight oil your builder wants you to use, as I expect they gave you an N/A warranty of some kind. Then go buy normal every day, cheap off-the-shelf NON-synthetic oil.

I recently sailed past 150,000 miles with my 427ci....still running like a top....all I've ever used is 20w50 Castrol GTX cheap regular oil. Change it every 3,000, do an engine flush at each oil change, and a Purolator filter. Thats all you can do for engine protection and longevity. The rest has to do with how well the engine was built in the first place. There's no synthetic oil thats gonna make your engine last longer............
Over the past 10 years or so, dozens of friends have had 402's, 416's, 422's, 427's, etc......almost all use synthetic oils.....and none of them have made it past 60,000 miles without having to rebuild.

Don't believe the hype........

.

Kevin@Vengeance

iTrader: (11)

PM me some information on the car and I will find out everything I can for you.

bg-sdpc

iTrader: (4)

Another option would be the Joe Gibbs XP4. It has a lot of the same characteristics as the break in oil that we use. It has more of the zinc and phosphorus than coventional motor oil and now the government is making the oil companies decrease the amount in racing oils and diesel oil also. The only diisadvantage is the you can't just pick it up at the local parts store.

Also, it is a petroleum based oil, not synthetic.

Brian

BrianSF-GA

"LS6427" ... don't worry, I have no interest in starting to run synthetic and tripling the cost of my oil "budget".

BrianSF-GA

Hello, thanks for replying Brian (bg-sdpc). Not being locally supplied is a problem. Although I am sure it is very good, I don't want to "ship-in" engine oil. If you concur with "Kevin@Vengeance's" recommendation, the 30W VR1 Valvoline is easy to get locally and is reasonably priced so I will go with that.

By the way, between your shortblock and Vengeance's build to a longblock, this is quite a motor...!!!!! I cannot wait to put a rearend under this, bolt on a set of slicks and see what 60's, 660's and 1320's this thing will cut.

ismdeuce

My LS3 is a 09 SDPC crate engine. I use Brad Penn 10w-30 oil. Up North we pay $5.50/qt. Look on Brad Penn website, ther is a dealer in Lawrence,Ga. If you use any 20w-50 engine oil, you are losing lots of horsepower. You can safely use 0w-30,5w-30 or 10w-30 engine oil.

blu byu EH

iTrader: (25)

I run this but straight 50 weight.

BrianSF-GA

I agree with "ismdeuce" where he suggests that a 50 weight robs horsepower. I like to stick with manufacturer's recommendations ... i.e. the Silverado, G35S and the Harley. The Camaro obviously is a different animal all together hence the original post.

"ismdeuce" ... thanks for the tip, but I have been to Brad Penn's website and noticed there is a retailer in "Lawrence" (Lawrenceville) too. That is on the other side of Atlanta though and it would probably be easier shipping it keeping Atlanta traffic in mind. If I can find free shipping for the Brad Penn, $5.50 is a good price ... I will have to look around the Internet for that.

BrianSF-GA

Thanks for the input "blu byu EH" ... I think the 50 weight is a bit too heavy for my application, but, if an engine is built "loose" (larger clearances) and the builder recommends a 50 weight, then I can understand running it, but I don't think that is the case here.

bozzhawg

I can understand the OP's decision to use convetional is cost motivated....
But the comment about failures do to synthetics made by someone else is not practical...

There is some misinformation being passed here and there are no test, no data, period to prove whether synthetic or conventional is superior over each other.... So to say motors, that use synthetics have more mechanical breakdowns or failures or vise versa for conventional oil is just not practical...

Oil film composition is more important than weight,grade,conventional or synthetic.... Whether you use conventional or synthetic, if the oils composition is not up to par with the engine's performance demands, then you will have advanced mechanical wear or worse mechanical failure.....

Since this is an LSX forum, everybody talks about one great attribute of the LSX platform is the longevity of the engines and expectations of 150,000-200,000+ miles.... And this is 90% of the time done with synthetic oil by the masses and thousands of drivers.....

Now within the last few years, in correlation to performance engines, we have seen lifter failures, excessive camshaft wear, etc..... And the common denominator I find when I ask guys about their failure or read about it is the none observance of ZDDP levels during engine life or breakin or install.... Yes we know its a hydro roller, you supposedly do not need high levels of ZDDP do to less friction.... But if guys actually pay attention to their aggressive camshaft lobes and demands placed on the valvetrain etc, which are miles away from stock, they would understand the mechanical stress thats taking place and the extra film protection thats needed..... Now why do guys use a motor oil intended for stock operation stock specs with a high performance modified motor? Yes it can be done, but its not the best practice..... alot of guys take shortcuts...
But some also attribute these mechanical failures or wear to the LSX oiling system in some engines.... But whatever it is, its not a synthetic vs conventional issue and I believe its more of a oil film composition issue..


Bozz

BrianSF-GA

Thanks for the post "bozzhawg" .... that was a good read. I am sure there are benefits in synthetics, but in my case, with 3,000 or less before an oil change, I personally cannot justify the cost. That is the only reason I prefer conventional oils. Again, being old school from my high school days with a small block '67 Camaro and then a big block '70 Chevelle, I couldn't bear to leave oil in an engine over 3,000 miles. Also remember that back then, high levels of ZDDP was a given and not something to have to search for like today.

bozzhawg

I totally agree, use whatever you fill comfortable with and your engine builder(s) reccomends...... just as long as the oil has the correct film composition to handle the task, conventional or synthetic... As Vengence stated as well the VR1 str8 30 or something along those lines should suffice.... They sell the VR1 at Napa,Advanced,Oreilly,etc... so it should be accessible.... You may have to order it if the location by your house does not have it but most Auto Parts places keep it on hand at their local warehouse in the city or county.. And can order it and have it there within a couple of hours... I just happen to live by the Napa Hub/warehouse for the Houston Metro Plex so they have everything....

I just use the VR1 10W-30 syth, because thats just what I decided to use on this motor, I will not name the oils, but I have opened up some engines and the individual used certain brands and I did not like the stuff we found..... So what I took from it was all oils are not equal...... and these engines, some were synth and some were conventional... So go figure....

Goodluck

Bozz

c5z16z

Hi bozz

I know old thread ... but what would be the difference between the
VR1 10 w30 pn#822388
Vs
VR1 10 w30 pn#679083