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LS2 into fbody

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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 01:45 PM
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Default LS2 into fbody

Hey guys, I remember there used to be a sticky that detailed what had to be done to swap an LS2 into an Fbody. I tried a search and came up empty.

Could anyone help me out with the link?

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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 02:12 PM
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Its the same as any LS motor and theres a ton of write ups on it here...try a search.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 04:30 PM
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The major things that are different are the knock sensors being on the side of the block on an LS2 and under the valley plate of the LS1. Another is the cam sensor being in the front cover on a LS2 not the back as on a LS1. Youll need a LS2 valley plate cover aswell as the LS1 unit wont fit.

I re-used my stock LS1 knock sensors and used a bench grinding wheel to cut the 10mm threads down to 8mm and then tapped the sensor to fit the block. (I didnt want to drill out my block to 10mm and tap, a sensor is 50 bucks a block is a grand! if I messed up id wanna just buy a sensor) once they were in I got a harness from caspers that plugged into my factory wiring harness and then down to the sensors.(some tuners may not use the sensors anyway so ask your tunner first if they use them in the tune)
As for the cam sensor, its in the LS2 cover you will need as the LS1 front timing cover wont fit a LS2 block. Once again I used a caspers extension harness from my factory wiring to the sensor.

You can re-use your LS1 oil pan, and rear timing cover as well as your oil pressure sensor and coolant temp sensor thats in the drivers head. Im sure I forgot something if you have anymore question ill be happy to help ya out
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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Thanks man, I already knew about all that stuff I just figured there were a few other things I was forgetting.

The only other really big thing I wanted was a picture showing where exactly to drill and tap for the knock sensors.

Any help there?

thanks again guys.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bouvs
Thanks man, I already knew about all that stuff I just figured there were a few other things I was forgetting.

The only other really big thing I wanted was a picture showing where exactly to drill and tap for the knock sensors.

Any help there?

thanks again guys.
You can drill the block or turn down the knock sensors. Behind the motor mount bosses should be a 8mm tapped hole in the block, you can either drill it to 10mm or turn the knock sensor down to 8mm. Just knocked the threads off the knock sensors and that got it very close to 8mm then ran a tap down it. I forgot the pitch, maybe 1.5
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:58 PM
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sweet project. i wanted to go with bigger cubes but the ls6 was just too good to pass up. shell be in by july so hopfully i wont be disappointed
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bouvs
Hey guys, I remember there used to be a sticky that detailed what had to be done to swap an LS2 into an Fbody. I tried a search and came up empty.
Originally Posted by MonmouthCtyLS7
Its the same as any LS motor and theres a ton of write ups on it here...try a search.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 11:25 PM
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some later ls2's had a 58x relutor ring... this shows you the pics

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653270
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by silverz28camaro
some later ls2's had a 58x relutor ring... this shows you the pics

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653270
Nice catch! Yes if reusing your ecm and sensors from your LS1, you will need the correct relecuor wheel. That was originaly in your LS1 either a 24 or 58 tooth wheel
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 07:21 AM
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Even if you do have the 58x wheel you can get a lingenfelter conversion box for about $300 box its a little pricey but it beats taking out your crank and having the wheels swapped
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 08:34 AM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...02-f-body.html
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by redbird555
Even if you do have the 58x wheel you can get a lingenfelter conversion box for about $300 box its a little pricey but it beats taking out your crank and having the wheels swapped
true but if your building an engine with a LS2 block you can order your crank with the correct wheel. Mine is a 402 using a LS2 block, I ordered my eagle stroker crank with a 24 tooth wheel

If your using a LS2 crate the box would be easier
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 01:22 PM
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Thanks guys, I aleady have the engine. I'm just getting ready to put it in, needed a bit of help with the knock sensors mostly.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:08 PM
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Alright I have another question for you guys. I'm doing this swap with a cherry picker and just wanted to know where you guys lifted from with bending or breaking anything.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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Also how do you keep the a/c intact while dropping the engine? Can you actually manipulate the lines enough to clear the engine?
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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anyone?
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 11:07 AM
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Disconnect the compressor from the block, loosen clamp on condensor, suspend the evaporator from the hood. Becareful not to force anything and keep an eye out when lowering the engine or raising the car.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 01:27 PM
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thanks, any ideas on where and what to lift from?
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 08:06 PM
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I'm sure there are write ups on here with good pictures. support the transmission with a floor jack lift car with straps on the beam where the top of the radiator was.
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Bouvs
Thanks guys, I aleady have the engine. I'm just getting ready to put it in, needed a bit of help with the knock sensors mostly.
I'm curious. Where did this block come from? It is 24x or 58x?
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