Overheating problems and I cant figure the problem out
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Socal
Overheating problems and I cant figure the problem out I have a turbo car thats hot already but the damn things keeps over heating after about an hours woth of drive time! I have a ron davis radiator for my gto i changed the cap thinkiNG THAT MAY HAVE BEEN THE PROBLEM BECAUSE THE LAST ONE WAS A BIT WORN BUT THAT DIDNT WORK, then I changed my thermostat to a 160 degree and that didnt work either! the water pump is working properly as well so what else is there to do??? I'm stumped here PLEASE PROVIDE HELP!
And if this was vague i'll provide any other info on the car!
And if this was vague i'll provide any other info on the car!
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Memphis TN
it could be air bubbles in the coolant system take the radiator cap off start the car let it get hot and at the same time squeeze the upper and lower hoses u should see air bubbles an top the coolant off as it gets low also
I have a turbo car thats hot already but the damn things keeps over heating after about an hours woth of drive time! I have a ron davis radiator for my gto i changed the cap thinkiNG THAT MAY HAVE BEEN THE PROBLEM BECAUSE THE LAST ONE WAS A BIT WORN BUT THAT DIDNT WORK, then I changed my thermostat to a 160 degree and that didnt work either! the water pump is working properly as well so what else is there to do??? I'm stumped here PLEASE PROVIDE HELP!
And if this was vague i'll provide any other info on the car!
And if this was vague i'll provide any other info on the car!
Also....go to a 180* tstat.....160* tstats don't close after awhile and then you have one big hot water heater just continuously moving hot water through and it never stops flowing and the coolant never gets any SIT time to cool off in the radiator.......the coolant MUST be able to stop flowing completely (tstat closes) and cool off before it returns to the heads/block.....
Once your tstat does not close......youre doomed and you will soon overheat. At least during city or stop and go driving. Cruising on the highway would cool it down enough to close it.
BUT.....you have to get a shroud on it....or fab one up that is sealed all the way around the edge of the back of the radiator so 100% of the air hitting the front of the radiator gets pulled through it. Fans just mounted to the back of a radiator is terribly inefficient as far as air flow cooling because the only part of the radiator surface that's actually cooling any air is the area under the fan blades......
.
Last edited by LS6427; Sep 15, 2014 at 05:26 PM.
Actually you don't need the stock shroud. I've done 2 turbo cars now, one with a 180 stat and one with a 160, both had cut stock fan shrouds and neither overheated. However, it IS important to use puller fans not pushers. To the OP, have you done anything to open up the grill or front bumper to get more air to the radiator? Did you jack up the front end and ensure there is no air in the system? Have you tried running straight water with water wetter?
Also....go to a 180* tstat.....160* tstats don't close after awhile and then you have one big hot water heater just continuously moving hot water through and it never stops flowing and the coolant never gets any SIT time to cool off in the radiator.......the coolant MUST be able to stop flowing completely (tstat closes) and cool off before it returns to the heads/block.....
Once your tstat does not close......youre doomed and you will soon overheat. At least during city or stop and go driving. Cruising on the highway would cool it down enough to close it.
.
Once your tstat does not close......youre doomed and you will soon overheat. At least during city or stop and go driving. Cruising on the highway would cool it down enough to close it.
.
Do you have the hoses running to the heater core hooked up? I only ask because other people have plugged them off and had overheating issues until they hooked them back up or ran a bypass setup (loop).
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Socal
Actually you don't need the stock shroud. I've done 2 turbo cars now, one with a 180 stat and one with a 160, both had cut stock fan shrouds and neither overheated. However, it IS important to use puller fans not pushers. To the OP, have you done anything to open up the grill or front bumper to get more air to the radiator? Did you jack up the front end and ensure there is no air in the system? Have you tried running straight water with water wetter?
I jacked up the rear end and let the car idle about 5 times already and it lightly bubbles but the problem still persist. The weird thing is that Ive tried everything and it still runs hot randomly. I havent tried the factory shroud so ill try that as well. i get so damn mad at it i contemplate driving around with the hood off lol
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Hi,
Is it getting hot while cruising down the road or in traffic?
Is it getting hot while cruising down the road or in traffic?
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Could be something as simple as changing the radiator cap, AGAIN.
When under pressure, water and engine coolant boil at a higher temperature. As your coolant and water increase in temperature and approach the boiling point, the state of the liquid begins to change to a gas, seen as steam. A gas is much less efficient in cooling your engine than a liquid. So INCREASING THE PRESSURE INCREASES THE BOILING POINT, allowing the coolant and water to do a much better job at removing heat. Keep in mind that internally coolant running through the channels within the engine will come on contact with metal that is well above 210° F so preventing the coolant from boiling is essential. By INCREASING THE PRESSURE, YOU ARE INCREASING THE BOILING POINT and the coolant remains in a state of liquid rather than converting to a gas. Heated coolant also expands so a closed loop system will require coolant to be held in rather than boiled out. A closed loop system will also need an overflow tank which is reclaimed upon cooling of the system.
When under pressure, water and engine coolant boil at a higher temperature. As your coolant and water increase in temperature and approach the boiling point, the state of the liquid begins to change to a gas, seen as steam. A gas is much less efficient in cooling your engine than a liquid. So INCREASING THE PRESSURE INCREASES THE BOILING POINT, allowing the coolant and water to do a much better job at removing heat. Keep in mind that internally coolant running through the channels within the engine will come on contact with metal that is well above 210° F so preventing the coolant from boiling is essential. By INCREASING THE PRESSURE, YOU ARE INCREASING THE BOILING POINT and the coolant remains in a state of liquid rather than converting to a gas. Heated coolant also expands so a closed loop system will require coolant to be held in rather than boiled out. A closed loop system will also need an overflow tank which is reclaimed upon cooling of the system.
Last edited by InsaneDomestics; Oct 19, 2014 at 08:12 PM.
