Making progress on the LSX 427" build
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 1
From: Bridge City,Tx
Making progress on the LSX 427" build Its been just over a month since I got my LSX 427" long block on the engine stand after getting it home from LME in Houston, Tx. Been steadily buying parts to get this project completed, its just a time consuming process figuring out all of the little details. Trying to get as much done as I can while its still on the engine stand and things are a whole lot more accessible.
I have gathered many parts, had some brackets and small things powder coated, fabricated coil brackets and also decided to make up some steam vent connection lines from braided stainless and AN fittings. Got the valve covers purchased as well as the FAST LSXR 102mm intake ported, cleaned up and painted, and reassembled with all new seals. Decided to add the FAST billet fuel rails and fuel line kit. Got my Firecore 50 plug wires installed and am pleased with the fit and quality of the wires, seems to have pretty good clearance with the Kooks 2" primary headers as well!
Bit the bullet and pulled the trigger on the GZ Motorsports Vacuum pump kit. Still need to get it all plumbed up and bolted down into position. Just looking at making it a clean install by minimizing the amount of hose length needed to make all of the necessary connections.
Here are some quick pics I took this evening. They are not the best pics, I will get some better ones once I get closer to completion and can roll the engine stand outside and get away from all the clutter of the shop.
I have gathered many parts, had some brackets and small things powder coated, fabricated coil brackets and also decided to make up some steam vent connection lines from braided stainless and AN fittings. Got the valve covers purchased as well as the FAST LSXR 102mm intake ported, cleaned up and painted, and reassembled with all new seals. Decided to add the FAST billet fuel rails and fuel line kit. Got my Firecore 50 plug wires installed and am pleased with the fit and quality of the wires, seems to have pretty good clearance with the Kooks 2" primary headers as well!
Bit the bullet and pulled the trigger on the GZ Motorsports Vacuum pump kit. Still need to get it all plumbed up and bolted down into position. Just looking at making it a clean install by minimizing the amount of hose length needed to make all of the necessary connections.
Here are some quick pics I took this evening. They are not the best pics, I will get some better ones once I get closer to completion and can roll the engine stand outside and get away from all the clutter of the shop.
Last edited by floman; Nov 18, 2014 at 11:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 1
From: Bridge City,Tx
Thanks, yeah they were about the best choice without spending crazy money for valve covers. All of the nice billet aluminum & carbon fiber units are all ridiculous money!
Thanks. Well they are easy to get off on the engine stand, the whole coil bracket assembly comes off with the valve covers. I'm sure it will be a pain in the butt once the engine is in the car on a 4th gen F-body because of the cowl. Will just have to try and unbolt the six bolts that hold the bracket to the valve cover on the side next to the intake. I'm sure I will have a few choice words the first time I try to pull them
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 1
From: Bridge City,Tx
The block is the GM Performance Parts LSX block that comes powder coated Chevrolet Orange. LME in Houston did all of the machine work on the block to bring it to its 4.125" bore. Has a Callies Compstar rotating assembly with 4.0" stroke and 6.125" rods & Wiseco forged pistons.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 1
From: Bridge City,Tx
Me and you both brother. I'm getting really close finishing up all of the small details. Have a couple of more parts at the powder coater to get installed, idler pulley and drive pulley for the vacuum pump. Once I get them reinstalled I can finish the plumbing on the vacuum pump. I need to drill and tap a hole on the driver side of the block for the knock sensor to fit in because the only one I can have access to is too small.
After that I need to start getting ready to do the swap including the new BMR tubular K-member & lower control arms. So, its getting real close to time!
After that I need to start getting ready to do the swap including the new BMR tubular K-member & lower control arms. So, its getting real close to time!
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