Replacing Rear Main Cover Question
Replacing Rear Main Cover Question I bought a new rear cover with the seal already installed (12639250). The engine (LS2) is on a stand but it's coming off shortly. I installed a new oil pan while the engine was on the stand.
Once the engine is off the stand and propped up on blocks, can I simply remove the cover bolts and the two oil pan bolts that thread into the cover and remove/replace the cover/seal without dropping the oil pan away from the block?
In other words, will I be alright simply removing two oil pan bolts? Or do I need to loosen more of the oil pan perimeter bolts to drop the pan from the block a bit? I'd rather not mess with the oil pan seal any more than necessary. Especially since the pan will be supporting the engine while it's off the stand.
Thanks.
Tipsy
Once the engine is off the stand and propped up on blocks, can I simply remove the cover bolts and the two oil pan bolts that thread into the cover and remove/replace the cover/seal without dropping the oil pan away from the block?
In other words, will I be alright simply removing two oil pan bolts? Or do I need to loosen more of the oil pan perimeter bolts to drop the pan from the block a bit? I'd rather not mess with the oil pan seal any more than necessary. Especially since the pan will be supporting the engine while it's off the stand.
Thanks.
Tipsy
I'd rather see the rear seal "self-align" on the crank hub, but you really can't do that with the pan bolted up. Should be able to loosen all the pan bolts (more so at the rear), install the rear cover, then re-tighten the pan...
As it is, I'm simply replacing the seal as preventive maintenance. It's got about 71K miles on it. I don't want to create a problem where one does not exist.
Tipsy
Damn, what kind of engine stand do you have? I've got plenty of room on mine. I've got three and they all have 2" long standoffs for rear block clearance...
Tipsy
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i literally just did mine today on a harbor freight stand lol unless you have the mounts backwards, plenty of room to remove the rear seal, only other thing i can tell you is put it back on the engine lift and do it in the air. Best way to do it is remove the pan put the new cover on, and hand tighten the bolts snug against the cover. Snug the oil pan up on the bottom, then torque the new cover in place, then torque the oil pan down.
If you torque the cover down without the pan on, it can be tilted slightly to one side or the other, and if you leave the pan loose and torque it down using the bottom pan bolts, you will pull the cover down slightly and the seal will be a little tighter on the top side. You want to make sure you torque it down where its straight, but not pulling in anyone direction. An alignit tool makes quick work out of this but its not that difficult as long as you dont have it misaligned when you torque the bolts back down.
If you torque the cover down without the pan on, it can be tilted slightly to one side or the other, and if you leave the pan loose and torque it down using the bottom pan bolts, you will pull the cover down slightly and the seal will be a little tighter on the top side. You want to make sure you torque it down where its straight, but not pulling in anyone direction. An alignit tool makes quick work out of this but its not that difficult as long as you dont have it misaligned when you torque the bolts back down.
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the alignit tool works on either one, it keeps the cover centered on the crank when torquing the bolts down. watch the video on it.
Regardless, I removed the old cover and installed the new cover and seal with the pan in place. And your point about the cover being pulled down to the pan is taken. That was a concern I had yesterday while doing this. But with the seal already in the cover, I didn't really see what else I could do. The Align-it tool would simply sit flush against the already installed seal doing nothing to prevent, as you say, the seal from being tighter on the top side (or potentially, the bottom side).
Tipsy
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; May 20, 2015 at 10:46 AM.
As stated you can do it on the engine stand. I tried to replace the cover and not buy the align it tool. Well less than five thousand miles I was pulling the trans and replacing the seal again but this time I used the align it tool.
I should have waited and got the tool in the first place.
I should have waited and got the tool in the first place.
As stated you can do it on the engine stand. I tried to replace the cover and not buy the align it tool. Well less than five thousand miles I was pulling the trans and replacing the seal again but this time I used the align it tool.
I should have waited and got the tool in the first place.
I should have waited and got the tool in the first place.
Tipsy
You're saying the first time you replaced the seal, you installed a cover assembly with the the seal already installed (12639250)? And it leaked?
Tipsy
Tipsy
I know there have been a lot of people who successfully replaced the rear cover without the tool. I thought that I would be able too but found out otherwise.
Correct. I attempted to center the seal on the crank but was unsuccessful. The second time I did it I removed the seal, removed the cover, cleaned reapplied RTV in the corners and used the align it tool.
I know there have been a lot of people who successfully replaced the rear cover without the tool. I thought that I would be able too but found out otherwise.
I know there have been a lot of people who successfully replaced the rear cover without the tool. I thought that I would be able too but found out otherwise.
Tipsy