I have a completely stock low mile LS1. I was thinking of camming it but since it has few miles I want to keep all the internals stock.

So can you guys give me the list of all the bolt ons I can have done to the car. If you guys have any suggestions on the brands or setup I should get please let me know your opinions. The car came with the optional 3.23 gears, I'm okay with those.

On the exhaust part, I want to get the ARH LTs with the GMMG catback but I've heard it sounds to raspy. What's another catback that would go along with those headers?

Any rwhp estimates on what it would do after everything is done to it?

 

What year is the car?

 

It's a 1998 Camaro Z28 A4 with 3.23s

 

One mod you may have not considered is getting a LS6 intake. As far as bolt ons full exhaust, lid and ram air, underdrive pulley, ported throttle body and tune. A stall would help as well

 

How much do the LS6 intakes run around for?
About the stall, how high of a stall would be just right for a full bolt on LS?

 

You can get a LS6 intake for around $300 give or take a few. It seems like a 3600 stall is very common for bolt on rides, but I own a stick so I can't say what's best for sure.

Nice ride btw! That color is pretty rare isn't it?

 

1 3/4 headers with good exhaust
3600 stall
Fast intake
Throttle body to match intake
Under drive pulley
Electric Water Pump
tune
Lower control arms
Pan hard bar
Short torque arm
Lower control arm relocation brackets

 

Alright thanks for the info. Yes it's the rare sport gold metallic color, with only 17k miles. It's a 1 owner car as well.

 

Any recommendations on the exhaust?
What's good to you?

 

I personally like the MagnaFlow exhaust. Kind of quite at idle but sounds good at wide open.

Borla also sounds good.

I had SLP loud mouth 1 on my 01 hawk. It was a little raspy but I liked it.

 

I have a MagnaFlow 14419 bullet muffler along with Pacesetter long tubes and ORY with a Flowmaster merge. It's loud but has a very deep tone

 

I second the FAST intake. I was considering doing an LS6 but there is too much **** to do to it to get it to fit (at least I thought so) I did a FAST 92 and a Nick Williams polished 92, pacesetter LT's, ORY and a Magnaflow exhaust (magnaflow was put on by previous owner) all that (minus muffler) cost around 1300 and a tune for 450 netted me about 45 horsepower over stock

 

leave the beauty stock

 

No way dude..... At least a converter and some Lt's

 

I want to get a MagnaFlow muffler 3" inlet/ 2.5" outlet meanwhile with my factory pipes. Will that fit?
I've heard that for Z28s it's a 2.75" inlet and 2.25" outlet because they have 2.25" tail pipes. Is this correct?

 

Is there a budget? Are you going for max power? Are you considering raplacing parts like the k member for lighter weight? Basically, are you trying to make the car as fast as possible without openening the motor or changing appearance? Considering different wheels/tires? Considering weight reduction? Let me know what your goals are and areas you are willing to modify or not modify and I'll give you a nice list...

 

I'm not planning on replacing parts like those nor weight reduction.
The only appearance changes I want to do are lower the car with some Strano springs and change the wheels with some SS 10 spokes I recently bought.

 

Ok, I only ask because those things will also make the car faster by reducing weight, and are "bolt on" lol. And if you're not going to run drag radials then I personally do not see the need for a stall with a stock cam. So, simply speaking bolt on's, as in performance parts that will add horsepower, here's a good list. This is everything I can come up with that adds power (to the wheels) without opening the engine. I say to the wheels, because one thing you can do to free up rear wheel horsepower is run a lighter wheel/tire combo, as well as a lighter driveshaft. These mods obviously don't add any horsepower to the engine, but they will add more power to the rear wheels via reduced rotational weight. I'll assume you understand the concept and save the lesson here. And don't just think lighter wheels, but lighter tires as well. Of course, the bigger your combo is, the heavier it will be. You will definately loose some rwhp by putting on those SS wheels and tires because they weigh more. And believe it or not, the wider wheels will cause some additional wind drag over the stock ones, slowing the car down at higher speeds. Most people overlook that or don't understand that tires do cause wind drag. If you are ever interested at looking into tire weights, www.tirerack.com lists the weights for the tires they sell, and for each size. You'd be surprised how heavy rubber is, and some tires are several pounds lighter than others. Another often unthought of mod is to run premium synthetic fluids, such as Royal Purple. Multiple tests have confirmed that you will gain a few extra hp by switching all the fluids to Royal Purple; motor oil, transmission fluid, differential fluid. Then another "maintenance mod" like the fluids, is to uprgade the ignition components for optimal spark. Get a good set of NGK or similar iridium plugs (make sure they are the right heat range), and upgrade the stock ignition coils to MSD or similar. A word of advise; don't go cheap on the coils like the Accel crap. You get what you pay for. Of course, always use premium fuel, preferably 93 octane if available. With rotational and maintenance mods covered, lets look under the hood now. I'll start from the front and move my way back. SLP air lid and filter, de-screen and port the MAF (aftermarket MAF's troublesome), SMOOTH bellow, larger throttle body with coolant bypass, LS6 intake (FAST intakes are overkill for bolt on only), underdrive pulleys (highly suggest ones with a harmonic balancer like SLP), electric water pump, 165* thermostat, tune. On a side note, a 165* t-stat will work better with a tune set to run the 165. Also, make sure you have fresh coolant in there to properly cool things down; coolant needs changed regularly like oil to do it's job right. And of course, the tune should be done after all the mods are done, so that it completes the package and the car will be tuned optimally for all the parts/mods performed, for maximum power gains. Now for the exhaust. You were not clear as to whether or not you intend to keep the car completely comliant, so I will list exhaust mods for max power gains. Long tube race headers eliminating the emissions crap, offroad Y pipe, cat delete, and 3" exhaust with bullet mufflers for max power, not best sound. The bullet mufflers are straight thru and thus offer the most power gains, but will be LOUD. Now, a true dual exhaust instead of the factory Y pipe setup will be worth a few more hp, but is more difficult and expensive to fab. And honestly, probably no gains from true duals on a bolt on car. It's just way more flow than a stock motor will need. Nitrogen is 3% lighter than oxygen, so you could fill your tires with that Of course people will say a stall converter and "4.10 gears", but those mods are not bolt ons to me, nor do they add power. Again, you weren't clear about your plans for the car, so I can't comment on the stall converter and gears. If you're going to throw drag radials on it and drag race it at the track and wan't to run faster, then yes stall and gears. If it's just going to be a street car on street tires with full bolt ons, then a stall wont make it any faster, but will make it more responsive; 4.10's might, but will have you fighting for traction through the first 2 gears on street tires and full bolt ons. Btw, full bolt on ls1's easily put down 350+ hp to the wheels, which is about 400hp at the crank (engine hp).

 

The car isn't my daily, but most of the time it's driven it'll be on the street. I do plan on running it at the track so I'm interested in drags but I'll probably get them in the 275/40/17 size. On the exhaust part I'm planning to get American Racing long tube headers and a GMMG catback. So would a 92 fast intake and a nick Williams 92 throttle body be to much for a bolt on car? I kind of am leaning towards a stall even though it's not a bolt on, so how big of a stall would be good for those mods but again I don't want a huge stall.

 

The nice thing about going ahead and buying a FAST 92 or 102, is that it is all the flow you will ever need. So if your plans change in the future and you end up doing heads/cam ect, you will already have the best intake on it fit for the job. The not so nice thing about doing this is the price. If money is no issue, then yah get the FAST. But, if you would like to save several hundred dollars and are sure you're not ever going to do more than bolt ons, the ls6 intake will be all the flow you'll need and then some, and at less than half the price (300-400 on here). So an auto at the track on dr's won't take off very fast because it is launching at low rpms on the stock converter, and doesn't even come close to causing good dr's to spin. The stall converter obviously lets you launch the car at a higher rpm and take advantage of the extra traction or the dr's, so you can take off faster, which everyone knows improves 1/4 mile times. With that being said, another reason guys runs stalls over 3500 rpm, is because of the cam they run. You don't plan on opening the engine, so the stock cam will make good power at a lower rpm. Those big cams on built motors make all the power in the upper rpm, and at an even higher rpm then the stock motor runs at. Those guys can't even run the factory converter because the car would stall out and stumble trying to launch at those low of rpms, having no power that low in the rpms. Since you are keeping the stock cam, imo, a 2800-3200 stall would probably be all you need. You could even use a mild cam later if you wish with the 2800 stall, but a 3200 would be better with a mild cam. The car is beautiful btw, and it's going to look great with those SS wheels on there. Please keep me updated as you progress; I would love to see how how the car runs after everything is done.