Possibly looking to order an LS3 crate engine
Possibly looking to order an LS3 crate engine Hey guys,
So with my engine down and out in my G8, I've actually been thinking about doing an LS3 conversion. With free freight and a $500 GM rebate, it'd only cost me about $5400. Plus selling the old block, heads and intake, and whatever internal components that are good, that'd probably be a good chunk of change saved. Also, Summitracing has their member card setup where I can pay for it with no interest over 18 months. I noticed that my old engine has ARP rod and main bolts(. Would it be wise to take off the oil pan on the new engine, and reuse this hardware since the engine will be out and I already have the parts? I do also have ARP headstuds and a different cam to put in it as well. I understand at this point the 2yr/50k warranty is invalid, but I don't really care too much. Would this setup hold up well to a D1SC build that'll put down 650-700whp? I'd probably make no more than 13-14psi max. I'd run a conservative tune and spray about 3-5gph worth of meth as a safety measure as well. I understand most would want a forged bottom end for something like this, but I don't think it'll be necessary for what I want out of the car.
Should I do the above setup, or who knows, maybe even leave the engine bone stock for the warranty and just put the D1SC on it. What would a bone stock LS3 and D1SC with meth make for power?
Thanks guys
So with my engine down and out in my G8, I've actually been thinking about doing an LS3 conversion. With free freight and a $500 GM rebate, it'd only cost me about $5400. Plus selling the old block, heads and intake, and whatever internal components that are good, that'd probably be a good chunk of change saved. Also, Summitracing has their member card setup where I can pay for it with no interest over 18 months. I noticed that my old engine has ARP rod and main bolts(. Would it be wise to take off the oil pan on the new engine, and reuse this hardware since the engine will be out and I already have the parts? I do also have ARP headstuds and a different cam to put in it as well. I understand at this point the 2yr/50k warranty is invalid, but I don't really care too much. Would this setup hold up well to a D1SC build that'll put down 650-700whp? I'd probably make no more than 13-14psi max. I'd run a conservative tune and spray about 3-5gph worth of meth as a safety measure as well. I understand most would want a forged bottom end for something like this, but I don't think it'll be necessary for what I want out of the car.
Should I do the above setup, or who knows, maybe even leave the engine bone stock for the warranty and just put the D1SC on it. What would a bone stock LS3 and D1SC with meth make for power?
Thanks guys
Low oil pressure happened. Cylinder walls are a little scored, cam failed and lifters are beat. Bottom end bearings seem to be okay, but since the block would need a small bore increase, I'd need to get at least new pistons. Then "while I'm here" syndrome would kick in, and I'd be looking at least 4k for a short block, not including misc parts and freight.
I'd use the meth only as a safety measure, I wouldn't really want to rely on it for a power increase. On the internet, it seems to work miracles, but everyone in person I've spoke to said it's unreliable. I had a pump only last one year on my other car.
I'd use the meth only as a safety measure, I wouldn't really want to rely on it for a power increase. On the internet, it seems to work miracles, but everyone in person I've spoke to said it's unreliable. I had a pump only last one year on my other car.
Hey guys, I'm basically wondering if it's okay to go ahead and bolt in the ARP stuff I have from my old engine into the new one. I found out that if a GM dealership, or an approved shop doesn't do the install, the engine just has a 30 day warranty. So at this point, I'm not afraid to dive into the engine for a cam swap and swapping out GM hardware for ARP stuff. Would bolting in the ARP rod bolts and main studs affect the bearing clearances?
Hey guys, I'm basically wondering if it's okay to go ahead and bolt in the ARP stuff I have from my old engine into the new one. I found out that if a GM dealership, or an approved shop doesn't do the install, the engine just has a 30 day warranty. So at this point, I'm not afraid to dive into the engine for a cam swap and swapping out GM hardware for ARP stuff. Would bolting in the ARP rod bolts and main studs affect the bearing clearances?
For 650-700 Hp and any type of reliability/longevity you should think about getting a forged shortblock and reuse your heads/intake setup from the current motor.
Thanks guys, looks like I'll be leaving the bottom end alone. While I like the idea from ordering the engine from summit, apparently Pace Performance offers a dyno and break in program for all crate engines for $650. Seems like a lot for what they do, but for "a guy in his garage" like me, it may be wise to have them break it in and sure proper operation before i go and do all this work to put it in, plus cam and heads swap it. Thoughts?
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
As Andrew said, if you're looking to boost it and starting fresh I would go another direction than the high comp NA orientated LS3, especially for reliability reasons if you want to push it a bit more..
Perhaps sell what you can and look at an LSA crate/pull?
Perhaps sell what you can and look at an LSA crate/pull?
No, I think the thread is still intact.
As for an update, I should be getting the crate engine today. It's going to work out great. I ordered it Monday from Summit, and it's supposed to be here today via UPS tracking. I'll be selling my old short block, and the top half of the new engine and reuse my old ported heads and intake. I'm projected to make 60-70% of my money back from the cost of the new engine. Plus I'll have extra parts like sensors, bolts and a throttle body for backups. I'm happy with this route, and I'll be able to get the car on the road far quicker and still feel good about reliability. I just wish used LS3 engines didn't go for 4k+ around here.
As for an update, I should be getting the crate engine today. It's going to work out great. I ordered it Monday from Summit, and it's supposed to be here today via UPS tracking. I'll be selling my old short block, and the top half of the new engine and reuse my old ported heads and intake. I'm projected to make 60-70% of my money back from the cost of the new engine. Plus I'll have extra parts like sensors, bolts and a throttle body for backups. I'm happy with this route, and I'll be able to get the car on the road far quicker and still feel good about reliability. I just wish used LS3 engines didn't go for 4k+ around here.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
Anytime you can recoup your costs, it helps out a LOT.
FYI, An L92 is the same long block as an LS3. Differences are just in manifolds, harness, and accessories. I can't remember on the DoD/VVT part so it may be the truck version of the L99 that came in the automatic Camaro.
They usually go for $2000 less than an LS3 and you can convert it over yourself for next to nothing since you would be replacing most of the differences anyway. I know its a little late, but It might help later on, especially if you end up looking for a replacement engine or shortblock.
FYI, An L92 is the same long block as an LS3. Differences are just in manifolds, harness, and accessories. I can't remember on the DoD/VVT part so it may be the truck version of the L99 that came in the automatic Camaro.
They usually go for $2000 less than an LS3 and you can convert it over yourself for next to nothing since you would be replacing most of the differences anyway. I know its a little late, but It might help later on, especially if you end up looking for a replacement engine or shortblock.
I looked into that too. Most L92's that didn't have high mileage were in the 3-4k range. There was one near me for $1600 with fire damage, but it was bad fire damage haha. The block looked like a marshmallow. I didn't want to roll the dice on it. I mean, yes I would have saved a little coin with an L92, but then with the higher mileage stuff I could get nickeled and dimed on gaskets and such. In my situation, I feel it was easier to write the check than turn the wrench.