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Nice job. When it is operational that will be the final test.
Well mr. Smarty pants, I found a way to prove it works... I bought a 2014 chevy ss! Since I was installing a cold air intake, I went ahead and threw it on for a try. Nothing but net, it works like a charm! I threw a few wot jaunts in, no issues at all. So while it may be like disassembling and reassembling a bomb, it's possible and the results are sexy!
It was a joke. If I was serious, I would have called you worse than a smarty pants lol! Either way, I'm just pleased it would powder. Now I have another throttle body to do something with, the one on the car.
Update, I did another specifically for my new SS, this time in red starlight! It's getting simultaneously easier and harder. On the first TB, it was new, so the worst parts were getting the motor and blade screws out. This latest TB was 3 years and 12K miles old. The things that were tough with the first were much worse with this one. The motor screws both required "Dewalt persuasion", and the blade screws really required attention. On one, the head came off with a drill and it backed out with a LH drill bit. The other had to be completely drilled, and I got off center, damaging threads.
In the end, though, reassembly went smoothly and it's all back together. I installed it yesterday, no CEL, it operated smoothly and all appears right with the operation. Just figured I'd follow up for anyone looking to do this themselves... patience is key, but it can be done!
the trick to loosening the lock tighted or any kind of fastener holder is heat, you dont have to make it red hot,just a few seconds and it will loosen its grip. after all, its plastic based. if you cant/dont have/dont want to touch it with propane torch, you can use one of those tiny butane, or better yet a soldering iron on its highest setting.
It's been a while, but I did another throttle body in black starlight for my ss.
looks good!
Any chance you have more detailed pics of the inside? I'm getting tps plausibility faults, and I'm hoping to use some deoxit on potentiometers if they exist. Hoping to look at interior pics of the throttle to see if it's even possible before cracking it open on my daily.
Any chance you have more detailed pics of the inside? I'm getting tps plausibility faults, and I'm hoping to use some deoxit on potentiometers if they exist. Hoping to look at interior pics of the throttle to see if it's even possible before cracking it open on my daily.
I hate to tell you, every time i take one apart, I take pics. And every time I'm done, I delete the pics.
A spare ls3 tb is maybe 200 bucks on Amazon. If you're worried about your dd, it's not even worth cracking it open to "repair". Just get another.
And another. I think I'm getting pretty good at this, if I say so myself... only ruined 1 of the 4 screws with loctite, and I bought a bulk pack to replace them as needed.
Great thread, I've been disassembling these things to port and half shaft mod for a few years now off and on. The most challenging part for me is removal of the original freeze plug. They can sometimes be a pain.
Did you ever get DBW codes after this?
I followed your steps a few years ago and everything went well. I recently redid the PC and disassembled once again and I’m having code come up. Causing a lot of issues.
I’m ready to take apart and check everything but this has only popped up since I redid.
Did you ever get DBW codes after this?
I followed your steps a few years ago and everything went well. I recently redid the PC and disassembled once again and I’m having code come up. Causing a lot of issues.
I’m ready to take apart and check everything but this has only popped up since I redid.
Youd need to share the codes for better guidance, but yes, i got codes when i swapped my 12k mile tb on my ss for a powder coated one. It was because the idle position was changed with a clean tb replacing a used one. It actually relearned position and cleared itself before i did anything to relearn idle. Otherwise no, no long term codes.
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