LS3 Throttle Body Disassembly
#1
LS3 Throttle Body Disassembly
I've got a couple gold blade DBW throttle bodies and I desperately want to powder coat them. For those unfamiliar with powder coating, the cure usually requires 400 degree baking. This means most plastic components and usually any electronics are destroyed if not removed. Therefore, throttle body disassembly is required.
However, the information available on disassembling these throttle bodies is spotty at best. So far, I've discovered the two screws in the blade were locked in with an equivalent of red loctite... had to drill both out.
Next, the four solenoid casing screws are security hex screws. Oddly, though, there is an o-ring style gasket at the seam after removing those screws. Odd.
Then, there are six Phillips screws on the electronics side. Four are easily removed, the two holding the canister-style motor in that lump off the side of the throttle body, though, were cemented in with the same stuff as the throttle blade screws.
So, after drilling those out, the solenoid case is ready for powder. However, the throttle side still needs disassembly as there's a black plastic gear that has the two opposing springs for the blade. I can't get that gear off.
Can anyone help? How do I get the shaft out of the throttle body housing?
However, the information available on disassembling these throttle bodies is spotty at best. So far, I've discovered the two screws in the blade were locked in with an equivalent of red loctite... had to drill both out.
Next, the four solenoid casing screws are security hex screws. Oddly, though, there is an o-ring style gasket at the seam after removing those screws. Odd.
Then, there are six Phillips screws on the electronics side. Four are easily removed, the two holding the canister-style motor in that lump off the side of the throttle body, though, were cemented in with the same stuff as the throttle blade screws.
So, after drilling those out, the solenoid case is ready for powder. However, the throttle side still needs disassembly as there's a black plastic gear that has the two opposing springs for the blade. I can't get that gear off.
Can anyone help? How do I get the shaft out of the throttle body housing?
#5
It's been done before by others, and if gm didn't want me in there, they wouldn't have used screws. It's down to just one last thing and it's all ready for powder. All I have to do is get that gear off. There's got to be a way.
#8
FormerVendor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Santa Ana, CA. USA
Posts: 2,157
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
DBC LS-2 Air Door
Hi, I manufacture A DBC conversion for the LS-2 Air Door.
The shaft is EASY to remove, I am sure by stating this, I too will get the "shaft".
Remove the butterfly screws, remove the butterfly, slide out the shaft.
Then make sure you use Loctite on the shaft screws.
Lance
The shaft is EASY to remove, I am sure by stating this, I too will get the "shaft".
Remove the butterfly screws, remove the butterfly, slide out the shaft.
Then make sure you use Loctite on the shaft screws.
Lance
#9
Guys, thanks for the insight. However, the shaft doesn't want to come out. Not sure how to press it out of the bearings, as the "idle" side of the shaft has a freeze plug style cover in there. The bufferfly is out, the motor side of the blade is off, it's broken down as much as it can be. Basically, all I need to know now is how to get the shaft out (giggity).
Anyone have insight as to how to get that shaft out? If it's just pressed out, how does one press on the idle side of the throttle shaft with the freeze plug there?
Anyone have insight as to how to get that shaft out? If it's just pressed out, how does one press on the idle side of the throttle shaft with the freeze plug there?
#10
FormerVendor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Santa Ana, CA. USA
Posts: 2,157
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Plug Removal
OK, I will share that method.
I use a small punch at the plug edge, then giving a tap, it should rotate.
Once done, I use a Needle Nose Pliers pulling out the plug.
Your case, I would install a Pipe Plug, then send to PP.
Lance
I use a small punch at the plug edge, then giving a tap, it should rotate.
Once done, I use a Needle Nose Pliers pulling out the plug.
Your case, I would install a Pipe Plug, then send to PP.
Lance
#11
Thanks for all the help, gentlemen! I'll powder it and post follow up pics!
#12
That is why I say that whoever does the powder coating needs to seal off the throttle body except only the exterior surfaces. Also of equal importance is the main airflow area where the throttle blade is. If that area gets powder coated it could cause binding of the throttle blade plus not sealing good at idle causing a fast idle. Whoever does this needs to be very careful.
#13
That is why I say that whoever does the powder coating needs to seal off the throttle body except only the exterior surfaces. Also of equal importance is the main airflow area where the throttle blade is. If that area gets powder coated it could cause binding of the throttle blade plus not sealing good at idle causing a fast idle. Whoever does this needs to be very careful.
I will add, there were two rubber seals in the bearing. I've removed them and cleaned the metal portions, which will remain in the throttle during the process.
#17
But I digest... here's the finished product, LS3 TB in gunmetal pearl grey and a whole bunch of clear! The biggest issue in reassembly was getting the shaft set all the way. A few times I thought I had it and tried to set the blade in, but discovered I had at least another 1/8" to go. In getting it set in there, I distorted (mushroomed) the end that turns the TPS electronics. I straightened and ground it a little to get it back in there, but I hear just a little rattle in the casing. I didn't take much off, so I don't suspect operation will be an issue.
And for reference, here's the VC and intake set that it will match
The following users liked this post:
Saber-1 (08-22-2022)
#20
Man, y'all are tough to satisfy! I actuated the blade full closed and full open several times during the reassembly process to ensure no binding. The screws in the throttle blade were installed with red loctite while the blade was forced full closed to ensure it wouldn't bind when it tried to trim idle air down.
But I guess you're right, it won't be proven until it's tried. Unfortunately, I don't have any vehicles running a 4 bolt DBW right now. Guess I'll just have to go buy one...
But I guess you're right, it won't be proven until it's tried. Unfortunately, I don't have any vehicles running a 4 bolt DBW right now. Guess I'll just have to go buy one...