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What will it take to make 450rwhp.

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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 05:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bspeck82
Enough of the 450whp bolt on ls6 nonsense. Your full of it and everyone who has basic knowledge of engines knows it. I have spoken with experienced tuners and engine builders and they laugh at this notion when I bring it up. Find an honest dyno and stop plauging these forms with lies and if your not lying, you were lied to by your tuner and Dyno results, you are impressing no one and just make yourselves look like fools to those who know better.

Headers, exhaust, fast 92 and 205-215cc afr/trick heads with a mild street cam will get you in the 450whp territory. If you want more then I'd build the bottom end with good lightweight components and low friction rings and add a fast 102 and a bigger cam paired with heads that will satisfy 7k+ RPM demands for air. And a revised fuel system to support it. You could also free up HP from power robbing accessories but this imo isn't worth the investment unless you want to squeeze every ounce of power out for bragging rights.
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it ran 130 mph in the 1/4 tho

just because your knowledge is very basic doesn’t mean it isn’t possible. I made 430 ish rwhp with a bolt on ls1
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 05:03 PM
  #22  
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Also know a guy who made 540 rwhp with an old wore out Stock bottom end ls1 Na
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 05:17 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Bspeck82
Enough of the 450whp bolt on ls6 nonsense. Your full of it and everyone who has basic knowledge of engines knows it. I have spoken with experienced tuners and engine builders and they laugh at this notion when I bring it up. Find an honest dyno and stop plauging these forms with lies and if your not lying, you were lied to by your tuner and Dyno results, you are impressing no one and just make yourselves look like fools to those who know better.

Headers, exhaust, fast 92 and 205-215cc afr/trick heads with a mild street cam will get you in the 450whp territory. If you want more then I'd build the bottom end with good lightweight components and low friction rings and add a fast 102 and a bigger cam paired with heads that will satisfy 7k+ RPM demands for air. And a revised fuel system to support it. You could also free up HP from power robbing accessories but this imo isn't worth the investment unless you want to squeeze every ounce of power out for bragging rights.
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Since I tuned the car and used the lowest reading dyno I have ever been on I’m sorry your comprehension of proper set up is lacking. I also have a 470 rwhp Bolt on ls3 with 1.85 rockers that makes 470 so you can do a search and read up on how it’s done
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 05:24 PM
  #24  
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And since it's my car and it has trapped as high as 131 before it made 451 whp i would have to say if anything the dynos were a bit low.

btw my 03 cobra swapped notch made 468whp/471 wtq on that very same dyno pullied to 14psi

Last edited by HioSSilver; Aug 20, 2018 at 05:36 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 05:34 PM
  #25  
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Here is what I have, dyno'ed 450 with an M6.
Linginifelter ported 243 heads
Fast 90/90
1 7/8 headers
SVO injectors
SD tune
Forged Crank, Rods and Pistons
Thnder racing 242 248 600 lift 112 lsa
yank 3600 stall M6 has been removed.

Last edited by qweedqwag; Aug 20, 2018 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 05:39 PM
  #26  
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Not sure how you got that m6 and stall to work together but that sounds like a good combo
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 05:41 PM
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TSP for the head work(larger intake valve as G has stated) good intake & TB with a decent header & your good. Get the compression around 11.0 or more( and do easy math we'll say your trans and rear end eats *100 Hp). You have a 6.0 bored over .075 which makes it a basic 6.2 just with 243's that need work and a intake/header. So is 550 to 580 hp @ the crank to HARD to get out of a 6.2 with factory ported 243's with :intake,cam and header? We Must Do easy math subtract *100 from our lowest number 550 = what?

We have your balance ready Sir:
Trick Flow® GenX® 220 cylinder heads with springs and valves run $885 each so x 2 = $1770 that's thru Summit (may need diff. springs). BTR build your own without parts are $1550.oo

Your heads done I've already rung you up @ the counter.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-1172-p...-castings.aspx

Stage 2.5 (2.02"/1.57" Stainless Steel Valves)
- LS6/LS2 (243/799)
- TSP .660" Dual Valve Spring Kit Featuring PAC Valve Springs w/ Titanium Retainers
$1,199.99

This a basic stock Ls3 with cam that looks like yours
Cam 3:
Lift: .617 in/ .624 ex
Duration @ .050: 231 in/239 ex
LSA: 113
Idle vacuum: 17.1 in-Hg
PV Intake: .041
PV Ex: .098
Cranking compression: 200 psi
Peak Power: 566 hp @ 6,400 rpm
Peak Torque: 517 lb-ft @ 5,200 rpm
Ave HP (3,000-6,500): 441.4 hp
Ave TQ (3,000-6,500): 485.4 lb-ft
Tq @ 4,000 RPM: 477 lb-ft

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...ick-boomerang/

460+ hp with a 5.3 with different stock ls heads again unported! You have a 6.2. just something to read over.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...der-head-test/
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 05:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by qweedqwag
………….. With an m6.
………yank 3600 stall.
huh???

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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 06:00 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
huh???
that’s more from the bag of tricks section Greg lol
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 06:29 PM
  #30  
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Actually it's Gary, but no problem! lol
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 07:33 PM
  #31  
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Get a ported fast 102 intake, 1 7/8 headers and you be there. Ported 243 heads are capable of 500 rwhp with a well thought setup. What's your compression?
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Amurphy
Hello all, I have a 2000 camaro ss and with all that's been done I have t quit had it dynoed yet so wanting to see if I'm missing anything. I'm trying to get to an all motor 450rwhp my current mods are
Bored 6.0 0.075" over
Tsp 230/236 .600 .600 113 cam
1"3/4Long tubes
Circle d 3200 stall
Stock 243 heads
Slp lid
All new internals in engine
Built transmission a4
Cat back. Engine was put in few weeks ago.

If your set up doesn't already have the following I would consider adding:
  • Under drive pulley 25% with overdrive pulley for alternator.
  • Consider an electric water pump
  • Replace the SLP 75mm lid with Fast Toys 90mm or 100mm
  • 85mm MAF or consider no MAF and Speed Density
  • LS6 intake with 90mm snout or Fast 92 with 92mm NW TB
  • Cutout - before catback in the I-pipe/midpipe. Electric is nice. Twin off headers can be good for track.
  • If the car still has the original LS1 intake that's really got to go.

Just curious how much cylinder wall thickness was left after going .075 over? What thickness did the sonic check show?

With ~377 cubic inches of motor and the 4.075 bore, I would definitely want more than a set of stock 243's with a 2.00 intake valve. With the big bore, at least 2.05 or 2.08 intake valve in a cathedral style head. TEA is my favorite for LS6/243 ported heads. The TEA ported LS6/243 heads have broke 500+ whp and up to ~550whp is possible in all out builds. The Trick Flow 's mentioned earlier if going aftermarket.

I would also consider since the motor is basically an LS3 based on bore and stroke, LS3 heads and LS3 intake. I think a set of ported LS3 heads with the LS3 intake will break 500 whp with your cam and other mod's. That might be more cost effective than a Fast 102 intake or MSD intake and a set of ported 243's or aftermarket heads.

The Rick Crawford radius rod mod can get some extra airflow out of the LS3 intake too.

Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; Aug 20, 2018 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 08:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Not sure how you got that m6 and stall to work together but that sounds like a good combo
M6 has been removed I wasn't very clear, made 450 with the M6 makes 426 with 4l60. My bad sorry.
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 10:40 PM
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With my mods listed above do you think I could out run a 2014 coyote mustang that has manuel trans and exhaust? He got me pretty good when I had ls1 same cam and stock heads. Would hate to lose with everuthing I've done now. On my differences now is I have a stall, 6.0 bored and 243's
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Not sure how you got that m6 and stall to work together but that sounds like a good combo
that's got to be one bad *** ride lol
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 08:17 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Amurphy
With my mods listed above do you think I could out run a 2014 coyote mustang that has manuel trans and exhaust? He got me pretty good when I had ls1 same cam and stock heads. Would hate to lose with everuthing I've done now. On my differences now is I have a stall, 6.0 bored and 243's
You should have no problem. If he still beats you, something is seriously off with the car.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Amurphy
With my mods listed above do you think I could out run a 2014 coyote mustang that has manuel trans and exhaust? He got me pretty good when I had ls1 same cam and stock heads. Would hate to lose with everuthing I've done now. On my differences now is I have a stall, 6.0 bored and 243's
best way to measure your performance is to go to the track. With a bored 6.0/ported or not 243s and a cam anything more than 10sec pass is a failure.

good solid bolt on ls1s have and can outrun coyotes depending on the mods of each.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:11 AM
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@99 Black Bird T/A listed a few things that should help make some free Hp:

If your set up doesn't already have the following I would consider adding:
  • Underdrive pulley 25% with overdrive pulley for alternator.
  • Consider an electric water pump
  • Replace the SLP 75mm lid with Fast Toys 90mm or 100mm
  • 85mm MAF or consider no MAF and Speed Density
  • LS6 intake with 90mm snout or Fast 92 with 92mm NW TB
  • Cutout - before catback in the I-pipe/midpipe. Electric is nice. Twin off headers can be good for track.
Adding a vacuum pump also adds free Hp just has a price like all things. If you had the *heads worked over with around *11:0 + Compression (free Hp) and the cam you listed you'd be around 550+ @ the crank with a good *intake and *header. With the other stuff like: EWP, underdrive pulley, vacuum pump etc.... you could be near 600 @ the crank just depends on how far your willing to go into Details and cash available.

With my mods listed above do you think I could out run a 2014 coyote mustang that has manual trans and exhaust? He got me pretty good when I had ls1 same cam and stock heads. Would hate to lose with everything I've done now. On my differences now is I have a stall, 6.0 bored and 243's
14 Mustang: V8 Coupe
3,605 lbs, 6 spd manual with rear end gear of 3.55 or 3.73

02 Camaro: 3,323 to 3,577 lbs, 6 speed and Aluminum Ls1

*You may/should have gained some weight using the iron block 6.0 with 4spd/3600 stall. .
What rear end gearing? Also is the stall/ converter set up for the car weight,rear gear, and cam being used? Your gonna make more HP so I'd look to make sure to have the drivetrain(gear/stall/trans) matched for the RPM and weight of the car. Ditch the spare tire/jack and run with as little fuel as possible. Full tank Vs empty tank is about 100 lbs with a Camaro SS.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...ss-weight.html


http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...g-gt-bolt-ons/
They added a few things to get this time out of a 5.0 Automatic. They also changed the rear gear also ......Wink, Wink..
60-foot 1.870
330: 5.102
1/8-mile 7.754MPH 92.450
1,000 10.053
1/4-mile 11.985 MPH 117.300
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:32 AM
  #39  
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This thread has a smell to it...a smell of some bullsh!t.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 11:02 AM
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Sounds like someone who would & should know. If your going into a fight knowing a few things your facing it helps. As with other things this thread maybe useful in the future. 550 @ the crank minimum is Hardly asking much from a 6.2 with correct parts. Just because you have the ability to make more Hp with a 6.2 vs a 5.0 doesn't means it will be faster. The entier car must be looked at.......Hp and dynos don't win races just tools to help a person with a properly set up car win. Weight and gearing are the 2 most easiest factors to do and most times overlooked for the idea of more Hp, which isn't bad in itself.
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