Car won’t start and idle after fast intake install
#21
Not really sure how to answer. Your voltage readings are not making sense. Well your stock ones are but not your 92mm throttle. You should not need to slot your tps for a 92mm throttle imo.
If I am
Following correctly you got it to idle by opening the set screw. To rezero, key off unplug tps, key on one minute, key off, plug in tps. That should let the tps read 0.0% on your new set screw position.
If I am
Following correctly you got it to idle by opening the set screw. To rezero, key off unplug tps, key on one minute, key off, plug in tps. That should let the tps read 0.0% on your new set screw position.
#22
Originally Posted by Kfxguy
Sounds like you adjusted the blade a little too much. Idle hang could be a vacuum leak. Did the intake come with Allen head screws for you to replace the valley cover bolts with?
#24
Not really sure how to answer. Your voltage readings are not making sense. Well your stock ones are but not your 92mm throttle. You should not need to slot your tps for a 92mm throttle imo.
If I am
Following correctly you got it to idle by opening the set screw. To rezero, key off unplug tps, key on one minute, key off, plug in tps. That should let the tps read 0.0% on your new set screw position.
If I am
Following correctly you got it to idle by opening the set screw. To rezero, key off unplug tps, key on one minute, key off, plug in tps. That should let the tps read 0.0% on your new set screw position.
Any adjustments we made to idle screw we reset the tps every time to reset to 0%. It seems like the iac is not opening when it should so not sure if it’s faulty or there are certain adjustments that are needed for it to kick on when it should
#25
Originally Posted by blackfbird98
Any adjustments we made to idle screw we reset the tps every time to reset to 0%. It seems like the iac is not opening when it should so not sure if it’s faulty or there are certain adjustments that are needed for it to kick on when it should
#26
Could the iac not set properly cause the engine to surge randomly? For example we had it idle around 950 where it was before the intake swap then randomly it would shoot up to around 2000 then idle back down
#27
Let me tell you what what happened to me this morning. So I started having a surging idle. I opened my scanner. Everything looked good. Tried logging the idle air. It was wanted half as much as normal. Wtf? Why. Then it hit me. I wasn’t getting full throttle so I “adjusted” my throttle cable to have the least amount of slack. Well when the engine warmed up, it was subtracting the slack just enough to keep the throttle opened just a touch. Causing a couple hundred rpm higher idle and some surging. And get this. The tps was showing 0% because contrary to popular belief, it will rest itself every time to cut the key off and let it sit. Try it if you dont believe me. Im not sure sure the tps really needs a reset. So anyways, gave a little slack on the cable and it went back to normal. Moral of the story. Sometimes it just don’t like the throttle blade to be cracked very much.
Other things of notable mention. I had problems returning to idle when I blipped the throttle in neutral or drive. I ended up making the timing in the cells 800rpm and below, all the same from .08g to .60g and then tapering down from there. 1000 rpm is only 1 degree more in all cells. And the same for 1200 except when it gets into a load. Around .44g a sec.
make sure your fueling at your idle cell (cell it idles at) is the same or writhing a number in the adjacent cells. If not, fueling can bleed over to the actual idle cell and start an oscillation.
#28
Originally Posted by blackfbird98
Could the iac not set properly cause the engine to surge randomly? For example we had it idle around 950 where it was before the intake swap then randomly it would shoot up to around 2000 then idle back down
#29
Ok so here’s where I’m at, took the car to the dyno and was a little less than pleased, last time I dynoed in May I made 467whp at 6750rpm and 455tq at 4310rpm. Today it dynoed 454whp at 6750 and 513tq at 4310rpm
Fuel and air were dead on and tried adding timing but didn’t change anything, I’m just confused cause I thought the fast would be at least a couple horsepower over the ls6 not lose 10-12....the only positive was gaining all that torque on the low end. My tuner said more that likely my drag radials I put on are robbing some horsepower as well as it being a little warmer than when we tuned in May, also he said that my exhaust could be a choking point as well. So should I be upset or would you guys be happy with the results?
Fuel and air were dead on and tried adding timing but didn’t change anything, I’m just confused cause I thought the fast would be at least a couple horsepower over the ls6 not lose 10-12....the only positive was gaining all that torque on the low end. My tuner said more that likely my drag radials I put on are robbing some horsepower as well as it being a little warmer than when we tuned in May, also he said that my exhaust could be a choking point as well. So should I be upset or would you guys be happy with the results?
#31
#32
Alright so here is my dyno comparison, first photo the top page was my peak horse power and bottom page was peak torque, second photo is from the most recent dyno with fast 92, you can see where torque peaks over 500 at 3000 rpm, when we looked at the computer it hit 513, but I lost top end power compared to the first dyno session with the ls6 intake
Last edited by blackfbird98; 08-28-2019 at 03:02 PM.
#33
At the very least your converter is unlocked, affecting your results, and is the reason for your unusually high torque at unusually low RPM. Secondly, it appears to me that on your fast 92, power was still climbing and he let up. It's definitely peaking at higher RPM than the ls6 intake did. Without knowing all your mods, do you have the capability to lock your converter for dyno or not (TH400 for example)?