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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 01:35 PM
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Default Vacuum

Hey all, looking at putting remote brake boosters on a manual brake car. No room for a traditional vacuum boosted MC setup. I have an LS3 with a 110 degree cam and .525 lift, so I'm not sure if that's a situation were I can use engine vacuum and a vacuum reservoir to drive remote boosters or if I should invest in a standalone electric vacuum pump.

Any thoughts?
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 02:47 PM
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Do you have power steering? If so, maybe a hydroboost setup might work for you.
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 04:08 PM
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No, it's manual right now with possibly EPAS if I go that route. I'm avoiding as many engine accessories as possible because the space is very limited. Only an alternator and AC compressor if I can help it, even going electric on the water pump.
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 04:38 PM
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What are the full specs on the cam? Giving just the LSA and lift say nothing. Lift, in fact is irrelevant here.
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
What are the full specs on the cam? Giving just the LSA and lift say nothing. Lift, in fact is irrelevant here.
  • Duration @ .050" Lift( Deg): Intake: 226 / Exhaust: 236
  • Maximum Lift (in) W/ 1.7 Rocker:Intake: .525 / Exhaust: .525
  • Lobe Centerline ( deg): 110
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Old Jul 31, 2021 | 10:56 PM
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That's not a radical enough cam to affect brake vacuum to any real degree. 11 deg. overlap isn't that bad.
You can up always turn the idle up a bit which will smooth it out, making more vacuum.
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Old Aug 1, 2021 | 12:42 AM
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I don't know why you wouldn't be able to use the Volvo pump to convert your brakes run hydroboost. The Hydroboost setup doesn't take up much space and the Volvo pump can be mounted a fair distance away.
DIY Volvo electric power steering
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Old Aug 1, 2021 | 09:45 AM
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Y’know, that might not be a bad way to go. It’s more lines to run, though, and another reservoir to find room for located near the steering. A vacuum pump is pretty small, or remote mounting a couple vacuum cans with small lines would be preferable.

Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll have to see how space works out.
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Old Aug 1, 2021 | 10:06 AM
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No need for power brakes. You get the manual brakes set up correctly and you won't even consider putting that stuff on there. We have the Strange manual master with 4 piston Strange calipers all the way around, set the system up exactly how Strange told us to do it, and I can tell you they work unbelievably good. Hard to tell they are even manual. You can lock them up with ease. They work better than any of the power brakes on the older GM's, that's for dam sure.

The first an foremost thing that is imperative to do is to remove every inch of the old brake system. I mean every last piece. All lines, rubber hoses, calipers. I mean everything. All brake lines absolutely need to be 3/16ths, and all hoses need to be the premade stainless hoses. NO RUBBER LINES. You need the 4 piston calipers too. The Strange as well as the Wilwood masters are internally proportioned so there is no need for another proportioning valve. If you want to add a line lock to the front, back or both, they work and hold Great. Will keep the front tires locked and skid them. They won't roll if you foot brake too much power. I have set up several cars like this and every one of them work unbelievably good. Pedal arm has to be drilled too. Master is 7/8ths bore. Pedal is rock hard.
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Old Aug 1, 2021 | 11:06 AM
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This is a scratch system build so there's really nothing to remove, however I'm planning on keeping the offered Brembo calipers/rotors offered with the car, they're 4-pistons each. Its' a dual MC with 3/4" and 7/8" bores. Sound's pretty close to what you're suggesting. Might be worth just trying it out as-is and seeing what the pressures are like and then add-in vacuum boosters if needed, though I'l' have to plan ahead and leave space available.
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