Recommend a better starter?
#1
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Here's the starter I am using:
GM PN# 89017847
AC Delco PN# 323 1640 A22
But it sucks up too much voltage during cranking for the current battery (Odyssey PC925) so that I cannot datalog cranking.
I am searching for a stronger battery, but there is a space constraint on the battery. I am attacking this from both sides of the equation, starter demands and battery strength.
Looking for recommendations for a starter that can handle a stock compression ratio LS3 while demanding less from the battery than the current starter. Bonus points if it is more compact than the starter I am currently using.
GM PN# 890178GM PN# 89017847
AC Delco PN# 323 1640 A2247
AC Delco PN# 323 1640 A22
GM PN# 89017847
AC Delco PN# 323 1640 A22
But it sucks up too much voltage during cranking for the current battery (Odyssey PC925) so that I cannot datalog cranking.
I am searching for a stronger battery, but there is a space constraint on the battery. I am attacking this from both sides of the equation, starter demands and battery strength.
Looking for recommendations for a starter that can handle a stock compression ratio LS3 while demanding less from the battery than the current starter. Bonus points if it is more compact than the starter I am currently using.
GM PN# 890178GM PN# 89017847
AC Delco PN# 323 1640 A2247
AC Delco PN# 323 1640 A22
#3
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4GA...they are in heat sleeves due to their proximity to exhaust, as well as the starter is in a DEI blanket due to the proximity to the header's collector
When I looked at some videos of 5th Gen Camaro SS's that were suffering from heatsoaked starters, my cranking is nothing like theirs. My cranking is still snappy and quick, it simply seems to gobble up a lot of voltage and causes VCM scanner to lose connection (which means I can't datalog hot starts), and causes a module or two in the car to throw a false error message which vanishes once the engine actually fires and the alternator is running.
When I looked at some videos of 5th Gen Camaro SS's that were suffering from heatsoaked starters, my cranking is nothing like theirs. My cranking is still snappy and quick, it simply seems to gobble up a lot of voltage and causes VCM scanner to lose connection (which means I can't datalog hot starts), and causes a module or two in the car to throw a false error message which vanishes once the engine actually fires and the alternator is running.
#4
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On my LS swaps I always run 2 gauge welding cable. The welding cable has really fine wires. Read some where the finer the wire the better it transmits amps. Don't if that makes a difference but it works for me.
In regards to starters are there LS starters that have more gear reduction than a GM starter? Just thinking the more gear reduction the less amps needed?
In regards to starters are there LS starters that have more gear reduction than a GM starter? Just thinking the more gear reduction the less amps needed?
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Saber-1 (06-26-2024)
#5
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4GA...they are in heat sleeves due to their proximity to exhaust, as well as the starter is in a DEI blanket due to the proximity to the header's collector
When I looked at some videos of 5th Gen Camaro SS's that were suffering from heatsoaked starters, my cranking is nothing like theirs. My cranking is still snappy and quick, it simply seems to gobble up a lot of voltage and causes VCM scanner to lose connection (which means I can't datalog hot starts), and causes a module or two in the car to throw a false error message which vanishes once the engine actually fires and the alternator is running.
When I looked at some videos of 5th Gen Camaro SS's that were suffering from heatsoaked starters, my cranking is nothing like theirs. My cranking is still snappy and quick, it simply seems to gobble up a lot of voltage and causes VCM scanner to lose connection (which means I can't datalog hot starts), and causes a module or two in the car to throw a false error message which vanishes once the engine actually fires and the alternator is running.
I will say I don't ever recall any of the Chargers/Challengers/300s ive worked on having an extended crank and the battery is in the trunk on those.
When I installed my twin turbo kit I had to change to a MSD starter and that thing cranks fast!
I would do a voltage drop test while cranking on both positive and negative side from the battery to the posts to the engine bay (a voltage drop test is different than checking voltage. I say that because a lot of people don't know that)
I think that would give you an idea if your cables are big enough or not.
Have you checked to see how many amps the starter is actually pulling?
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G Atsma (04-22-2024)
#7
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Using a 13yo MSD starter and 2/0 gauge wire.
no problems
no problems
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#8
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Get a 2018 Silverado 5.3 starter.
Did you wire the power to the OBD plug? If it is wired wrong, when you turn the key to start, it will shut off the power. It has to have uninterrupted power.
Did you wire the power to the OBD plug? If it is wired wrong, when you turn the key to start, it will shut off the power. It has to have uninterrupted power.
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wannafbody (05-02-2024)
#11
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As far as I know all the gen 4 LS starters are all the same fitment wise. Don't know about the gen 5 LS starters. Quick trip to the parts store you could compare one to the other.
#13
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4AWG is on the small side for battery cables. Especially for long runs, such as you might have if you relocate your battery. As others have suggested, you might want to opt for larger cable. Also, you might want to check your grounds to see if you have a grounding problem that is causing excessive resistance.
#14
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Stock LS3 Camaro starter is a great deal roughly $150 at GM dealers.
I checked eBay to find which dealers offered discounts. I bought mine out of Pittsburgh PA. I called them directly though.
I checked eBay to find which dealers offered discounts. I bought mine out of Pittsburgh PA. I called them directly though.
#15
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I cannot believe I'm still cranking an engine with the original starter that came with my 01 car.
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Y2K_Frenzy (06-03-2024)
#16
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Double06 (06-09-2024)
#17
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I agree with the cables being under sized.
I did the battery relocation and 4ga... wouldn't crank, just click click click....went to 0ga welding cable, issue gone.
I did the battery relocation and 4ga... wouldn't crank, just click click click....went to 0ga welding cable, issue gone.
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G Atsma (06-09-2024)
#19
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That's exactly what I plan to do if and when this one ever quits working. Another thing I did was move up to 4 AWG wire for the power and alternator ground and installed a starter solenoid on the firewall so I didn't have continuous power running down to the solenoid on the starter. I really didn't like having to connect my remote starter switch down there in order to roll over the engine.
#20