Air conditioning compressor
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
Air conditioning compressor A little off the beaten path. I’m looking at possibly removing the AC compressor from the engine accessories and using electric so I can mount the compressor anywhere - *and* possibly use a remote-start aux function to pre-cool the car via said electric compressor. That electrical logic to run compressor and fan is something I haven’t dealt with yet, though with a programmable PDM system I think it will be possible.
Anyone tried a remote compressor setup? There’s a couple on Amazon, but I have no experience with them.
Anyone tried a remote compressor setup? There’s a couple on Amazon, but I have no experience with them.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 340
Likes: 47
From: Corpus Christi, TX
I definitely think it is a bad idea if your thinking to pre run it without the vehicle on or does your vehicle not come with auto start?
Those type of devices draw alot of current and require a decently large battery capacity or the engine running. Only reason hybrids and full electrics barely get by is by using high voltage.
https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/h...-level.546746/
I am all for having money to blow on batteries and we can get custom solar roofs/hoods/trunks pm me ill do the wiring :]
Those type of devices draw alot of current and require a decently large battery capacity or the engine running. Only reason hybrids and full electrics barely get by is by using high voltage.
https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/h...-level.546746/
I am all for having money to blow on batteries and we can get custom solar roofs/hoods/trunks pm me ill do the wiring :]
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 2,188
Likes: 973
Keep in mind that 600W @ 12V is 50 amps. Per the specs for the unit that Guy posted. The comments about "undervoltage" make no sense whatsoever to me, unless the "controller" steps the 12V input up to some higher voltage, to run between the "controller" and the motor itself.
I note that in another place it says that the input power is 120W. However, it also says that the rated output is 1800W (kinda like a heat pump: it "moves" more heat than the input power it takes to do the moving), which is reasonably consistent with a typical modern performance factor, where the heat "moved" is thus "rated" at 3 times the input. There's no way on this planet with the pathetic engineering skills currently possessed by the miserable and unsophisticated species infesting it, that this thing is going to give a PF of 15 (ratio of 1800 to 120). I'd recommend preparing for a 50A draw with that unit. Which means, BIG FAT wire, and a MUCH larger alternator than a typical stock one. Maybe a 140A truck AD244 or some such.
Battery capacity isn't really an issue unless you plan on running the AC without the alternator operating.
Refrigerant lines will be yet another element of maze you'll have to run to get to the cheeeeezzzze.
I note that in another place it says that the input power is 120W. However, it also says that the rated output is 1800W (kinda like a heat pump: it "moves" more heat than the input power it takes to do the moving), which is reasonably consistent with a typical modern performance factor, where the heat "moved" is thus "rated" at 3 times the input. There's no way on this planet with the pathetic engineering skills currently possessed by the miserable and unsophisticated species infesting it, that this thing is going to give a PF of 15 (ratio of 1800 to 120). I'd recommend preparing for a 50A draw with that unit. Which means, BIG FAT wire, and a MUCH larger alternator than a typical stock one. Maybe a 140A truck AD244 or some such.
Battery capacity isn't really an issue unless you plan on running the AC without the alternator operating.
Refrigerant lines will be yet another element of maze you'll have to run to get to the cheeeeezzzze.
