rear main seal install
#26
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Location: Gladstone, Queensland, Australia
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http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...s/12585671.gif
This is a pic of the old style seal. Click to see full image. This is a 98-02 seal and is different then the one I have in my engine which has a tendency to weep oil. Infact over 50% of LS2s/LS3s I work on leak out the rear main. Rarely I tune one that isn't leaking. Pitty they don't use the older style seal. I believe the rear cover plate is definately not the issue. A new gasket and some silicon it troublesome spots(from factory they have no sealant). I normalyy put a pit of loctite master gasket on the outer surface of the seal, just a light smear.And I clean the cover with thinners to get all oil residue off. They definately leak out the seal. I have replaced mine twice, Both have "this side out" on them in very small writing. It is weaping again not enough to drip oil on the ground but I can see it coming from the bottom of the bellhousing, more concerned about the clutch.
I will try going inside out with it, see how it looks then and use a feeler gauge to self centre.
Does anyone have a pic of the new seal? And p/n see if the new reverse lip matches up with the ones we have at our local dealer.
Cheers
Joel
This is a pic of the old style seal. Click to see full image. This is a 98-02 seal and is different then the one I have in my engine which has a tendency to weep oil. Infact over 50% of LS2s/LS3s I work on leak out the rear main. Rarely I tune one that isn't leaking. Pitty they don't use the older style seal. I believe the rear cover plate is definately not the issue. A new gasket and some silicon it troublesome spots(from factory they have no sealant). I normalyy put a pit of loctite master gasket on the outer surface of the seal, just a light smear.And I clean the cover with thinners to get all oil residue off. They definately leak out the seal. I have replaced mine twice, Both have "this side out" on them in very small writing. It is weaping again not enough to drip oil on the ground but I can see it coming from the bottom of the bellhousing, more concerned about the clutch.
I will try going inside out with it, see how it looks then and use a feeler gauge to self centre.
Does anyone have a pic of the new seal? And p/n see if the new reverse lip matches up with the ones we have at our local dealer.
Cheers
Joel
#27
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Bump im about to do my rear main seal and purchased one from. GM. This new design has the letters "this side out.." and appears to be thinner. I have it in place flushed with the outer lip of the rear cover but there is a gap inbetween the seal and aluminum surface.. Does it have to sit all the way back against the innder lip of the rear cover or just flushed with the the outer lip of the rear cover surface.
The felpro ones were thicker and completely filled in the area.
The original oem one had a thick metal lip that also filled in the complete area of the rear cover.
Also how much rtv is required to add onto the lower portion of the rear cover *where it meets the oil pan
The felpro ones were thicker and completely filled in the area.
The original oem one had a thick metal lip that also filled in the complete area of the rear cover.
Also how much rtv is required to add onto the lower portion of the rear cover *where it meets the oil pan
Last edited by TPI TERROR; 04-23-2011 at 08:28 PM.
#31
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I know there's a little mold growing on this thread, but I've got the same leak from my LS3 in a F-body. When we pull the clutch off with the engine in the car, how hard is it to R&R the whole rear cover for a new PN 12639350 (which includes the seal and gasket)? Do we need any special tools to align the seal/gasket/cover when we replace the entire cover? If yes, which tools?