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rear main seal install

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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 05:32 PM
  #21  
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When installing the new style seal with the revearse lip do you install it bottomed out like lswonderful said. Also is it possible to use two because I really want this to stop leaking. I had this apart three times last weak.
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Does anyone know the bolt sequence of the rear cover?
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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i got a new seal......and the directions said that on the seal there are the words " this side out" i cant find those words anywhere on the seal........HELP
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Im gonna bump this because those words are not on my seal either.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 12:37 PM
  #25  
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DOH!!!! I wonder if this is my problem....When I return from Iraq I have to pull the engine/trans back out just to replace the stupid seal!! Mine leaks like crazy though..It's a steady stream coming out on startup...
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 10:42 PM
  #26  
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http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...s/12585671.gif




This is a pic of the old style seal. Click to see full image. This is a 98-02 seal and is different then the one I have in my engine which has a tendency to weep oil. Infact over 50% of LS2s/LS3s I work on leak out the rear main. Rarely I tune one that isn't leaking. Pitty they don't use the older style seal. I believe the rear cover plate is definately not the issue. A new gasket and some silicon it troublesome spots(from factory they have no sealant). I normalyy put a pit of loctite master gasket on the outer surface of the seal, just a light smear.And I clean the cover with thinners to get all oil residue off. They definately leak out the seal. I have replaced mine twice, Both have "this side out" on them in very small writing. It is weaping again not enough to drip oil on the ground but I can see it coming from the bottom of the bellhousing, more concerned about the clutch.

I will try going inside out with it, see how it looks then and use a feeler gauge to self centre.

Does anyone have a pic of the new seal? And p/n see if the new reverse lip matches up with the ones we have at our local dealer.

Cheers

Joel
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 08:19 PM
  #27  
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Bump im about to do my rear main seal and purchased one from. GM. This new design has the letters "this side out.." and appears to be thinner. I have it in place flushed with the outer lip of the rear cover but there is a gap inbetween the seal and aluminum surface.. Does it have to sit all the way back against the innder lip of the rear cover or just flushed with the the outer lip of the rear cover surface.

The felpro ones were thicker and completely filled in the area.
The original oem one had a thick metal lip that also filled in the complete area of the rear cover.

Also how much rtv is required to add onto the lower portion of the rear cover *where it meets the oil pan

Last edited by TPI TERROR; Apr 23, 2011 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 01:19 PM
  #28  
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what if you need a rear seal for a LSX block application? is there a part number for that?
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Old May 29, 2011 | 12:24 PM
  #29  
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anybody?
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by WaLieN
Do you have the P/N for the Rear Main Cover + Seal? Thanks in advance!
Originally Posted by ssmith512
GMPP #12614813. INcludes rear cover with crank seal installed and includes rear cover bolts.
Bump with the latest part number for the rear cover with the seal, for those who are searching:

12639250

Tipsy
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Old May 10, 2016 | 03:58 PM
  #31  
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I know there's a little mold growing on this thread, but I've got the same leak from my LS3 in a F-body. When we pull the clutch off with the engine in the car, how hard is it to R&R the whole rear cover for a new PN 12639350 (which includes the seal and gasket)? Do we need any special tools to align the seal/gasket/cover when we replace the entire cover? If yes, which tools?
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Old May 10, 2016 | 08:14 PM
  #32  
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I used the saccity alignment tool. Worked great for me. They also have a youtube "how-to" video showing them install the gasket on an LS motor.
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