We finally finished up the 408 swap, started the first time, but no oil pressure at all. I replaced the Oil Pressure Switch before start up. I let it run for about 15 seconds the first start, and about 10 the next. Both starts there was no oil pressure. I removed the drivers side valve cover, and there was no oil at all. Is this normal for a new engine start? I'm worried I might have pinched the pickup tube O-Ring, even though I was extra causious.

Is there a way that I need to prime it?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
-Pat

 

I always disconnect the coil packs and spin it over with the starter to build oil pressure.. However after running it and not building pressure sounds like an issue between the oil pickup or pump.. I'd definitely be checking it.. Good luck

 

Check the barbel in the block also make sure thats in there to!

 

what exactly is the barbel, and where is it located?

 

So, I figured out what the barbel is, etc.. I have no idea if Texas Speed installed one, when I purchased the longblock.

 

it is a barbell shaped plastic o-ringed plug that goes in the rear oil galley ...it is not exposed unless the rear engine cover is removed, which also involves removing the torque tube/transmission...

did you use a new oil pump in the rebuild?

are you going based off of your cluster or a mechanical guage?

do you have a double roller timing chain?

is there oil in the engine?

theres only going to be a few things that will cuase no oil pressure...

bad pump (slightly common)
bad seal on oil pickup o-ring (very common)
oil galley service hole barbell plug in back of block missing or came out (slightly common)
freeze plug in oil galley service hole in front of the block missing.(slightly common)
blockage in the block. (not common)
rear cover gasket is not sealing the oil galley passage (not common)

the reason i ask if your running a double roller timing chain is becaue the double roller chain requires the oil pump to be spaced out...the timing kit should come with the necessary spacers..

 

most engine builders will install the front freezeplug as well as the rear barbell...if not installed they will include it with the engine...your best bet is to call TSP and see what they say...if you cant get a positive answer start checking off the list i posted....

 

The engine has:
-New ported LS6 oil pump
-Rollmaster Double Timeing chain


I think I might try removing the coil packs, and spinning the motor. Possibly checking the O-ring too? Also, I'm going by the stock pressure gauge.

 

Okay, so I disconnected the coil packs, and cranked it with the started three times (few seconds each) I removed the drivers side valve cover, and there is no oil just some assembly lube.

 

you have an air leak somewhere in the system....

id pull the timing cover off fist and make sure the shims for the oil pump are there...these are absolutely necessary.

while the cover is off check the o-ring in the pickup tube as well as make sure the freezeplug is in the block...

if everything checks out ok, move to the back of the block and make sure the barbell is in the engine...

pretty much what i told you the first time...its a pain in the *** i know but its the only way to do it...

doyou by any chance have a remote mounted oil filter?

 

I just spoke to Matt @ TSP, and he did verify that the freeze plugs are installed. I know that the LS6 oil pump is shimmed, because I did it myself. I'm wondering if the pickup tube is sitting too low on the pan, and its not allowing it to suck the oil?

 

Btw- No, I do not have a remote oil filter.

 

Glad you figured it out, Patrick (missing shim in pump for those who are curious)! Let me know if I can help with anything else! We'll be looking forward to seeing some numbers in the near future!

 

Thanks for the input guys. Matt, I'll deffinately post up the numbers.

 

so he was missing a shim in the pump or the shims to space the pump?