Build Destiny!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7
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Build Destiny! Hello LS1tech members,
For sometime now I have played an active role in this community alongside local F-Body car clubs / groups of people. I have about $20k on a full ride setup for my vehicle. Unfourtunetly due to the circumstances of this build I cannot reveal any pictures of my vehicle but the info is that I have a Don't close this thread just yet 99+ Camaro / Firebird V6 3800. I was a very active part in my F-Body car club I had to leave, with little money and no support from the local club. I want to start this by the summertime i have preferences, keep in mind all credible information spent on this post will help me tremendously. I've owned the firebird it since highschool, I would be saving money doing this, considering I want the Twin Turbo setup.
Here's where I am getting started:
What engine block will keep this build structured to daily driven needs...
LS1, LS2, LS7?? What parts will help I can go over my $20k budget is it worth it...
Turbo - APS TT..
Transmission - Stock M6 Viper stage 3 build
Rear End - "strange rear" not sure what gears for the DD
Current Mods:
3-Point Subframe Welded
Billestin Shocks
Hotchkis Springs
Adjustable Panhard
Solid Steel Lower Control Arms
Wheelies would be nice...
For sometime now I have played an active role in this community alongside local F-Body car clubs / groups of people. I have about $20k on a full ride setup for my vehicle. Unfourtunetly due to the circumstances of this build I cannot reveal any pictures of my vehicle but the info is that I have a Don't close this thread just yet 99+ Camaro / Firebird V6 3800. I was a very active part in my F-Body car club I had to leave, with little money and no support from the local club. I want to start this by the summertime i have preferences, keep in mind all credible information spent on this post will help me tremendously. I've owned the firebird it since highschool, I would be saving money doing this, considering I want the Twin Turbo setup.
Here's where I am getting started:
What engine block will keep this build structured to daily driven needs...
LS1, LS2, LS7?? What parts will help I can go over my $20k budget is it worth it...
Turbo - APS TT..
Transmission - Stock M6 Viper stage 3 build
Rear End - "strange rear" not sure what gears for the DD
Current Mods:
3-Point Subframe Welded
Billestin Shocks
Hotchkis Springs
Adjustable Panhard
Solid Steel Lower Control Arms
Wheelies would be nice...
Last edited by PlanDefeat; Feb 12, 2009 at 06:08 AM.
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
Hello LS1tech members,
For sometime now I have played an active role in this community alongside local F-Body car clubs / groups of people. Recently I have embraced the idea of spending $20k on a full ride setup for my vehicle. Unfourtunetly due to the circumstances of this build I cannot reveal any pictures of my vehicle but the info is that I have a Don't close this thread just yet 99+ Camaro / Firebird V6 3800. In my previous years I have taken a pounding for my weak powertrain not amped enough to play with the *big dogs*... As I was a very active part in my F-Body car club I had to leave, laughter was spent on my behalf due to the V6 I figured who cares, but apparently not. But now i'd like to have them take a big **** in their pants. I am on NO TIMESCALE and have only a few preferences, keep in mind all credible information spent on this post will have followups and ultimately pictures / videos. My vehicle is one of a kind, it looks great and i've owned it since highschool, very well managed.
Here's where I am getting started: " GIVE ME POWER, GIVE ME LIFE, GIVE ME A FUC!&G HEADACHE "
What engine block will suffice keep in mind this vehicle is a daily driver will it fit and what do i need V6 / V8 Swap Harness/radiator...
LS1, LS2, LS7?? What parts will help I can go over my $20k budget is it worth it...
Turbo "saves gas on easy driving sounds beastly on a V8"?
What transmission should i marry it up to i'm thinking a 6-speed, what company and materials might I use...
Rear End - what model will be used in this perfect configuration...
Please help my mascerade in giving me what I and so many others crave...
Current Mods:
3-Point Subframe Welded
Billestin Shocks
Hotchkis Springs
Adjustable Panhard
Solid Steel Lower Control Arms
Give me DESTINY
Wheelies are a plus...
For sometime now I have played an active role in this community alongside local F-Body car clubs / groups of people. Recently I have embraced the idea of spending $20k on a full ride setup for my vehicle. Unfourtunetly due to the circumstances of this build I cannot reveal any pictures of my vehicle but the info is that I have a Don't close this thread just yet 99+ Camaro / Firebird V6 3800. In my previous years I have taken a pounding for my weak powertrain not amped enough to play with the *big dogs*... As I was a very active part in my F-Body car club I had to leave, laughter was spent on my behalf due to the V6 I figured who cares, but apparently not. But now i'd like to have them take a big **** in their pants. I am on NO TIMESCALE and have only a few preferences, keep in mind all credible information spent on this post will have followups and ultimately pictures / videos. My vehicle is one of a kind, it looks great and i've owned it since highschool, very well managed.
Here's where I am getting started: " GIVE ME POWER, GIVE ME LIFE, GIVE ME A FUC!&G HEADACHE "
What engine block will suffice keep in mind this vehicle is a daily driver will it fit and what do i need V6 / V8 Swap Harness/radiator...
LS1, LS2, LS7?? What parts will help I can go over my $20k budget is it worth it...
Turbo "saves gas on easy driving sounds beastly on a V8"?
What transmission should i marry it up to i'm thinking a 6-speed, what company and materials might I use...
Rear End - what model will be used in this perfect configuration...
Please help my mascerade in giving me what I and so many others crave...
Current Mods:
3-Point Subframe Welded
Billestin Shocks
Hotchkis Springs
Adjustable Panhard
Solid Steel Lower Control Arms
Give me DESTINY
Wheelies are a plus...
level 5 4l80e will do fine and diffrential think 9 some one else could fill u in on the rest. Sell your car, buy a z28/trans am/ss/ws6/formula, and then build something...make sure its the same color and tell them is the same car. I say this because i dont like efi conversions...they are a pain in the ***. Or you can do it the easy way...6 spd and a carb. Dont forget your gonna need a rear too.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
i have not ruled out the possibility of a complete sell off.... yet wouldn't it be cheaper if I just swapped the powertrain, instead of buying a v8 to begin with than going for a larger motor / trans / turbo upgrade?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I need to bump this post for some information on the engine build... I want to have the tranny sent in for a build, possibly the viper setup most people have on this site.
Last edited by PlanDefeat; Feb 9, 2009 at 06:04 PM.
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You can do the swap and its not a hard one. Im in the middle of a similar one. You need to keep track of what ure spending and always watch for deals. Ebay, parts classified section and craigslist will be ure new best friend. I justified it because I wanted to put a stroker in and therefore would be pulling the engine out to swap anyways. Back on track though, you can sell most of your parts and replace them with the needed ones (k member, rack and pinion, harness, computer) and almost break even if they are stock for stock. Ive sold most of my Lt1 stuff and had enough money to buy most all my Ls1 conversion parts. Only thing that was out of pocket was the engine itself, which I wouldve done if the car had an ls1 to start with. If I had to do all over again, not sure if I'd go through it, just because of the down time, My cars been out of commision for 2 years
If I had ure budget to start with though Id be done.
Nick
If I had ure budget to start with though Id be done.Nick
Haha, I remember this thread. I see it got pruned.
You're pretty much trying to build a complete car. I would start at the rear and work your way forward. For a rear I would look into a midwest chassis and performance Fab 9 inch. It's a super light fabricated housing that comes with a moly torque arm and starts around $2500. I would get a good driveshaft from him at the same point.
For the fuel system I would look at Nastyperformance. They sell complete fuel systems for our cars. If you posted something like power goals it would be much easier to figure out.
If you are looking for something cheap engine wise I would do a forged 370 with some L92 heads. It should hold up to pretty much anything you are trying to do with your budget.
You're pretty much trying to build a complete car. I would start at the rear and work your way forward. For a rear I would look into a midwest chassis and performance Fab 9 inch. It's a super light fabricated housing that comes with a moly torque arm and starts around $2500. I would get a good driveshaft from him at the same point.
For the fuel system I would look at Nastyperformance. They sell complete fuel systems for our cars. If you posted something like power goals it would be much easier to figure out.
If you are looking for something cheap engine wise I would do a forged 370 with some L92 heads. It should hold up to pretty much anything you are trying to do with your budget.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
You can do the swap and its not a hard one. Im in the middle of a similar one. You need to keep track of what ure spending and always watch for deals. Ebay, parts classified section and craigslist will be ure new best friend. I justified it because I wanted to put a stroker in and therefore would be pulling the engine out to swap anyways. Back on track though, you can sell most of your parts and replace them with the needed ones (k member, rack and pinion, harness, computer) and almost break even if they are stock for stock. Ive sold most of my Lt1 stuff and had enough money to buy most all my Ls1 conversion parts. Only thing that was out of pocket was the engine itself, which I wouldve done if the car had an ls1 to start with. If I had to do all over again, not sure if I'd go through it, just because of the down time, My cars been out of commision for 2 years If I had ure budget to start with though Id be done.
Nick
If I had ure budget to start with though Id be done.Nick
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Haha, I remember this thread. I see it got pruned.
You're pretty much trying to build a complete car. I would start at the rear and work your way forward. For a rear I would look into a midwest chassis and performance Fab 9 inch. It's a super light fabricated housing that comes with a moly torque arm and starts around $2500. I would get a good driveshaft from him at the same point.
For the fuel system I would look at Nastyperformance. They sell complete fuel systems for our cars. If you posted something like power goals it would be much easier to figure out.
If you are looking for something cheap engine wise I would do a forged 370 with some L92 heads. It should hold up to pretty much anything you are trying to do with your budget.
You're pretty much trying to build a complete car. I would start at the rear and work your way forward. For a rear I would look into a midwest chassis and performance Fab 9 inch. It's a super light fabricated housing that comes with a moly torque arm and starts around $2500. I would get a good driveshaft from him at the same point.
For the fuel system I would look at Nastyperformance. They sell complete fuel systems for our cars. If you posted something like power goals it would be much easier to figure out.
If you are looking for something cheap engine wise I would do a forged 370 with some L92 heads. It should hold up to pretty much anything you are trying to do with your budget.
I'd like to build this car to about a 550 - 680 hp range (thats with the twin-turbo system) while keeping quality and reliability in mind. This will be my daily driven vehicle.
Rear -The rear from midwest chassis looks like something i'll invest in and may have it shipped assembled (including driveshaft), compared to the strange rear i'd like to investigate more into the quality and reputation in the companies. I'd like to keep the car light but not skimp on things as well.
Fuel - The Nasty Performance Stage 2 Street kit with Racetronixs PnP 340pump .... this was a great find it has it all (i'm sold here) keeps it within my bounds adding a little extra.
Turbo - F-Body APS Twin-Turbo
Transmission - Looking more into the viper build have it assembled and shipped.
Engine - Here's where the problem sticks for me. I don't want a drag car with an aggressive cam or 400ci engine it just seems like too much for a DD. 370 ci is about right, i'd still like to keep fuel mileage in check especially when ordering the heads / Cam. Can you give me a little more on the L92 heads they are actually cheap. BTW I do not have any LS1 parts for the block, no coil pack for spark, i'm checking out the ws6store site for the radiator, exhaust system misc.(will add later)... I'm going to have to break down the engine parts to more specifics also I will have to add the webpage or seller to buy these parts.
Engine:
Cam - (not sure)
Manifold - LSX (of course)
Rods - ?
Pistons and rings - ?
looking into a stroker kit...
how much lighter are the midwest performance rears with the chromemoly parts?
Last edited by PlanDefeat; Feb 12, 2009 at 06:09 AM.
appreciate the revival rathburg I wasn't getting anywhere you provided some good stuff to start with so far after your help here's what I have.
I'd like to build this car to about a 550 - 680 hp range (thats with the twin-turbo system) while keeping quality and reliability in mind. This will be my daily driven vehicle.
If you are only looking for those areas of power you can do that on a forged 347 and not add the weight of the iron block.
Rear -The rear from midwest chassis looks like something i'll invest in and may have it shipped assembled (including driveshaft), compared to the strange rear i'd like to investigate more into the quality and reputation in the companies. I'd like to keep the car light but not skimp on things as well.
They are nice pieces. I plan on ordering two of them when ever I get the money.
Fuel - The Nasty Performance Stage 2 Street kit with Racetronixs PnP 340pump .... this was a great find it has it all (i'm sold here) keeps it within my bounds with a little extra.
Good choice and it will support pretty much what you want to do.
Turbo - F-Body APS Twin-Turbo
Transmission - Looking more into the viper build have it assembled and shipped.
Check T56rebuilds, liberty transmissions, and / or tick performance for options on that.
Engine - Here's where the problem sticks for me. I don't want a drag car with an aggressive cam or 400ci engine it just seems like too much for a DD. 370 ci is about right, i'd still like to keep fuel mileage in check especially when ordering the heads / Cam. Can you give me a little more on the L92 heads they are actually cheap. BTW I do not have any LS1 parts for the block, no coil pack for spark, i'm checking out the ws6store site for the radiator, exhaust system misc.(will add later)... I'm going to have to break down the engine parts to more specifics also I will have to add the webpage or seller to buy these parts.
Engine:
Cam - (not sure)
Manifold - LSX (of course)
Rods - ?
Pistons and rings - ?
looking into a stroker kit...
If you don't have any of the engine parts I would just buy a complete LS1 engine setup that someone pulled out of their car. Get all of the front accessories, wiring harness, and PCM. Otherwise you are going to have absolute hell trying to piece it all together. You can drop that in your car with or without the turbo setup to reduce down time on your car.
If you've never driven anything like this you are in for a huge shock. You can do it in stages. I would suggest getting the car running and used to driving it. Then, you can do the turbo setup with or without the forged bottom end at the same time. I can tell you from going from my stock / bolt on car to driving my friend's 670 rwhp turbo car there is a humongous difference.
Outline your plans, goals, and budget. Break it down into stages that minimize buying excessive or parts you won't use in the future and stick to that plan.
how much lighter are the midwest performance rears with the chromemoly parts?
They weigh in right around the same weight as a 10 bolt. I'm pretty sure it is with in 5-10 lbs. If you have it narrowed, have the axles gundrilled, lightened, and / or put a spool in it will be lighter than stock.
I'd like to build this car to about a 550 - 680 hp range (thats with the twin-turbo system) while keeping quality and reliability in mind. This will be my daily driven vehicle.
If you are only looking for those areas of power you can do that on a forged 347 and not add the weight of the iron block.
Rear -The rear from midwest chassis looks like something i'll invest in and may have it shipped assembled (including driveshaft), compared to the strange rear i'd like to investigate more into the quality and reputation in the companies. I'd like to keep the car light but not skimp on things as well.
They are nice pieces. I plan on ordering two of them when ever I get the money.
Fuel - The Nasty Performance Stage 2 Street kit with Racetronixs PnP 340pump .... this was a great find it has it all (i'm sold here) keeps it within my bounds with a little extra.
Good choice and it will support pretty much what you want to do.
Turbo - F-Body APS Twin-Turbo
Transmission - Looking more into the viper build have it assembled and shipped.
Check T56rebuilds, liberty transmissions, and / or tick performance for options on that.
Engine - Here's where the problem sticks for me. I don't want a drag car with an aggressive cam or 400ci engine it just seems like too much for a DD. 370 ci is about right, i'd still like to keep fuel mileage in check especially when ordering the heads / Cam. Can you give me a little more on the L92 heads they are actually cheap. BTW I do not have any LS1 parts for the block, no coil pack for spark, i'm checking out the ws6store site for the radiator, exhaust system misc.(will add later)... I'm going to have to break down the engine parts to more specifics also I will have to add the webpage or seller to buy these parts.
Engine:
Cam - (not sure)
Manifold - LSX (of course)
Rods - ?
Pistons and rings - ?
looking into a stroker kit...
If you don't have any of the engine parts I would just buy a complete LS1 engine setup that someone pulled out of their car. Get all of the front accessories, wiring harness, and PCM. Otherwise you are going to have absolute hell trying to piece it all together. You can drop that in your car with or without the turbo setup to reduce down time on your car.
If you've never driven anything like this you are in for a huge shock. You can do it in stages. I would suggest getting the car running and used to driving it. Then, you can do the turbo setup with or without the forged bottom end at the same time. I can tell you from going from my stock / bolt on car to driving my friend's 670 rwhp turbo car there is a humongous difference.
Outline your plans, goals, and budget. Break it down into stages that minimize buying excessive or parts you won't use in the future and stick to that plan.
how much lighter are the midwest performance rears with the chromemoly parts?
They weigh in right around the same weight as a 10 bolt. I'm pretty sure it is with in 5-10 lbs. If you have it narrowed, have the axles gundrilled, lightened, and / or put a spool in it will be lighter than stock.
look i know you have your heart set on wanting to do a swap but being that you have never done this before and you are going to try and do with within 3 weeks....your gonna have problems. Sell you car and then you will have 25k to work with. 7k and a car that all you have to do is take out one motor, trans, and rear and put in another of each....no swaping wire harness, no running running fuel lines, no conversions. but its ur cash and time so its ur choise.
3 weeks is impossible; unless your at it days n night in a nicely equipped garage with friends. That is from my experience(me and friends). Downtime is always 2x longer than what we originaly thought.
With L92 heads youre stuck with the L76 or LS3 intake due to the rectangular intake port. Unless you can get your hands on the new FAST LSX 101mm intake..
Lots of good info above. Iron 370 is cheap or forged 347. With the forged 347 you cannot get L92 heads.
You could sell your car and get a clean one with a defect engine for cheap and you would still have plenty of cash for a nice build.
READ A LOT here before doing anything...I wish I've done that before buying a shortblock on ebay instead from a sponsor here(I would have a 408ci setup for the same price of my forged 347
)
Good luck!!!
With L92 heads youre stuck with the L76 or LS3 intake due to the rectangular intake port. Unless you can get your hands on the new FAST LSX 101mm intake..
Lots of good info above. Iron 370 is cheap or forged 347. With the forged 347 you cannot get L92 heads.
You could sell your car and get a clean one with a defect engine for cheap and you would still have plenty of cash for a nice build.
READ A LOT here before doing anything...I wish I've done that before buying a shortblock on ebay instead from a sponsor here(I would have a 408ci setup for the same price of my forged 347
)Good luck!!!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
what do you guys think about the crate ls7 found one for 13.5k also has the ECU, Calibration, Wiring Harness and Throttlebody for an additional 2k... http://azspeed.stores.yahoo.net/ls7crateengine.html