What block are you using?

That would be cool!

 

DrkPhnx, that link is bent outwards. I am assuming when the other link broke, the pressure of the tooth on the pin bent the other link out as the force was completely aborbed by that link.

 

[QUOTE=405HP_Z06;10699124]What block are you using?
\[QUOTE]
03 LS6

 

"Agree, they are physically different but they perform the task the same way the street versions do.
Agree and disagree. I'm still convinced the ATI damper offers better harmonic dampening than the stock damper."


Aaron,
If you think about the other end of the crankshaft, a full diameter cast flywheel is a better vibration damper than a lightweight small diameter race version, right?

Here is the C6R front dress> http://www.zorly.com/images_corvette...Race%20Car.jpg

 

Here are some pictures of the broken timing chain damper. The chain must have wacked it after it broke.

 

I wonder why GM changed the design of the damper and went away from the LS2 design?

In this pic you can see where the chain hit the metal part of the damper and probably causing the plastic part to break.

 

Soooooooooo...... Anybody familiar with dampening characteristics of the March fluid dampened pulley or does it seem ATI is the only one to consider other than OEM.

I am now thinking about switching back to OEM........


GREAT THREAD.....

 

Your relegated to the now discontinued tan GM TCD, part # 88958607 (Timing Chain Damper, Tan, LS1/6, 2.187 Bolt Center). Did you find an ATI crank pinning kit?

 

Google is your friend, there have been many discussions about the types of dampers. I'll say this, there is a reason fluid type dampers are not used in most forms of racing.

Have you asked the vendor for any type of test documentation that identifies the harmonic bands their damper is tuned for? I'm betting that would be an exercise in futility.

 

Hi Bruce,
A flywheel will absorb some vibration, but with the clutch its probably generating plenty of its own. The difference is the flywheel isn't designed to reduce engine harmonics like the damper is.

Cool picture of the C6R engine. The damper is covered up by the externally mounted reluctor rings. This is a good example of where a quality damper is really needed. The packaging constraints in this example require a custom design with a high degree of functionality. I'm sure the other end of the crankshaft looks just as exotic with a small diameter multi-disk flywheel/clutch assembly.

 

The opposite edge appears to be a tensile failure with the initiation point where I have my arrow. That is a typical failure of a link under load with that side failing first and then the pin twisting out of the other side.

 

I'm ditching the short block. I ordered a LS3 416 from LPE. I am not sure which TC damper to use. The older style or the newer spring loaded one. I did not find an ATI pinning kit. I sent LPE an email to see how much they charge to pin the crank for me? If I don't find one they sell it for $146.

Rob

 

IN MY HUMBLE OPINION, the newer style is a better design. In motion, the timing chain will curve inward <drivers right> on the drivers left side of the timing set which both designs address. The drivers right side of the timing set will curve outward <drivers right> which only the new design addresses.

PM me if you don't get the crank pinning figured out; I have an ATI pinning tool.

 

From a pure dollars and cents standpoint, the only reason that I would think GM would go with what looks to be a more expensive damper (LS3) vs. the LS2 would be it provides them better protection from TC issues under warranty.

 

^ Agreed. Especially since they started offering the 10yr, 100k mile powertrain warranty standard for the LS3's

 

I'll install the newer design. With the TC damper, IRL chain and ATI balancer I hope my luck with timing chains changes for good. I'm even installing the Morel lifters due to reading this forum.

Thanks for the offer for the pinning kit. Hopefully LPE can just take care of it for me. Drilling a forged crank won't be easy and will probably take more than one bit.

SIDEBAR: Vettenuts, I see you went with the Morels as well. What is the recommended preload on them? I read in a post once that it was something like .030 to .050.

 

Yes, I was told 0.030" - 0.050" a couple of years ago. Mine are set at 0.054" (close enough) as I wanted to set them at the deep end of the range to keep some of the noise down. I also had new rollers installed for my new head/cam setup I just finished.

 

I may be installing morels in my setup, but part of me just wants to use all of the stock stuff again so if a piston does happen to fail, I am not out any money for fancy aftermarket parts.

Speaking of lifters, does anyone think my current ones need replacement after this kind of a failure? I will be replacing the pushrods no matter what.

 

One thing about Morels, they are rebuildable.

 

I've pinned a forged crank and the stock crank with the same ATI pinning kit. I couldn't tell a difference during the pinning procedure.

Probably part or most of it, but either way it SEEMS to be a better design that would enhance durability of the timing chain.