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WTF, large amount of oil in the intake? (pics)

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Old 02-16-2009, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob 's 73
Valve stem seals are under the springs. They have nothing to do with the valve sealing against the valve seats.
I understand that, but here is what I am saying.

Everyone in here is saying if oil is coming from the intake ports into my intake mani due to reversion or "whatever", there are going to be 2 causes of it. 1. My valve stem seals could all have mysteriously gone bad and 2. I could have some valves that are not sealing properly which, according to this thread, will induce oil into my intake due to reversion.

I feel like my valve stems are good, leading me to believe its not #1. So, I am going to have a leak down test performed on the car to see if its #2. If all cylinders pass the leak down, I will then eliminate #2 as a variable and proceed with the necessary steps to eliminate #1 as a variable just to be sure. If I then still have oil getting into the intake, then I am just damn SOL because my PCV valve is working and I have already tested it.
Old 02-16-2009, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Unless I'm wacked about the valley cover....the intake a valley cover do not touch and have no correlation at all. Only way for oil to get into the intake...from the valley cover is by the PCV hose leading into the intake...from the valley cover.

If you lift the intake off, the valley cover is sitting there all by itself. The oil is inside/under it.

Right......
Correct
Old 02-16-2009, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1.8t
^ Every single valve in my heads are brand spanking new gm valves and the seats were all touched up. I did not lap the valves in though. Richard @ WCCH told me I would be fine after ~10min of running since he freshened up the seats when he had the heads. A leak down will be done and if it comes back good the valve stem seals will be replaced.
OK, thats what I thought. Leak down test probably won't tell you anything other than bad rings at this point if it fails since your heads are setup right. As mentioned before bad guides could be an issue, especially if you had bent valves. They could be out of round, then this can cause your valves to rock and bad sealing on the seals letting oil in. Guides should be replaced if you badly bent a valve as well.
Old 02-17-2009, 06:01 AM
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^ WCCH went through the guides to ensure they were all in perfect order. Everything checked out good . I have just read that your supposed to always lap the valves in and wonder if not doing so could contribute to this fiasco.

BTW, A+ thread guys. I really appreciate all of the help!
Old 02-17-2009, 09:38 AM
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Are you using the same type (weight) of oil that you used before?
Old 02-17-2009, 09:49 AM
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Yes, I am. Mobil 1 5w30.
Old 02-17-2009, 10:20 AM
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JFM-jr, Im the one thats wacked about the valley cover. i didn't know until last night when i looked at mine that LS engine were designed that way. I was just trying to think of some other possilalties. I am curious as hell as to what is causing this problem though
Old 02-17-2009, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 72 Z-28
JFM-jr, Im the one thats wacked about the valley cover. i didn't know until last night when i looked at mine that LS engine were designed that way. I was just trying to think of some other possilalties. I am curious as hell as to what is causing this problem though
Yeah, when you mentioned that about the valley cover/intake I thought I had it all wrong all these years. But its looking like reversion is probably the issue, because how can every single valve seal be the problem?????? Maybe, but wow that would be wacked.
Only thing about this reversion thing is: how can the oil be so raw and fresh after having been in the combustion chamber.
Old 02-17-2009, 11:52 AM
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Yea that's what I don't get. I am hoping my leak down comes out good because that's just going to open a whole other can of worms that I don't feel like messing with. Maybe it's just a couple of leaky valve stem seals and it's just being distributed through the intake Mani. Either way, I will find out what's going on soon enough.
Old 02-17-2009, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 1.8t
Yea that's what I don't get. I am hoping my leak down comes out good because that's just going to open a whole other can of worms that I don't feel like messing with. Maybe it's just a couple of leaky valve stem seals and it's just being distributed through the intake Mani. Either way, I will find out what's going on soon enough.

DING DING DING - BINGO. That right, most likely is your problem. A few bad seals sucking in and distributing lots of oil throughout the intake.
Old 02-17-2009, 05:56 PM
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I had a older 5.3L that I some issue with valve bounce, due to harmonics in my valvetrain being ucked up. When tearing down I found some of my valve seal springs in my cylinder heads and oil pan and some oil in my intake. That is why I wonder if your timing chain breaking could have some issue with possible coil bind and damage some valve seals?
Old 02-17-2009, 06:46 PM
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Fossil, I already verified everything about my install and everything was perfect. I measured everything and check the tq on everything 1000 times upon tearing the car down and it was all perfect. I even had my valve springs tested and they all came out perfect. I had a chain failure, pure and simple. The chain broke at 4k rpm.....there was no way in hell I was floating anything at that rpm. If it was a harmonic issue, it must not have been dampened by my ASP UDP. I am running the stock balancer now.

BTW, I have already verified the little spring on the valve stem seals are all still there. Thats about all I could check without removing the springs.
Old 02-17-2009, 07:44 PM
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Does your factory balancer have any weights added?
Old 02-17-2009, 08:28 PM
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^ I am sure it does/all of them do. The manuals says to install them in the same orientation that they came off which would mean there was some type of assembly balancing done.
Old 02-18-2009, 05:05 PM
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Did you mark your balancer and crank before removing so that it can go back on correctly? I am really convinced that is why my chains broke.
Old 02-18-2009, 08:38 PM
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Unfortunately, I did not do the original install and when I tore the car down the ASP pulley was on the car. I did an educated guess with installing the balancer. There was a white dot mark on the balancer, kind of like a touch of paint. I figured the boys at GM probably used that mark to sync up with the timing mark on the crank gear so one could find TDC without having to remove the front cover. Whether thats true or not I don't know, but thats how she went back on.
Old 02-18-2009, 10:31 PM
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I am old school but what you changed last befor the problem is what is the problem is now. I say valve seals . Instead of doing the leakdown just change the seals . I have been following this so keep us up to speed on the results.
Old 02-24-2009, 09:54 AM
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Leak down test showed between 4~7 percent across the board. How does that stack up? Valvestem seals will be replaced since I feel that leak down percentage is good to go.
Old 02-25-2009, 07:53 AM
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Sometimes I've seen people use the wrong size stem seals for thier applilcation.
Also, like some of you guys have said, check the guide ID to the valve stem OD. Even if the seal is ok, excessive tollerance will let lighter weight oils leak by.
I have always run a catch can breather style system.
Always good to check PTV clearances just in case you are so very close to hitting the piston tops under high revvs. When you do a leakdown do you have the exhaust off? That way you can actually hear where the leakage is coming from. Same goes for the intake manifold and valve cover. It's hard sometimes to hear where the air is leaking from while doing that test. So just be patient and take your time.

Good luck. Keep us posted on your find.
Old 02-25-2009, 08:18 AM
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PTV is fine. Vengeance has run a bigger cam than mine(for durations and lift) and shaved their LS3 heads .020 and had no PTV issues. My heads have only had .005 knocked off and my valve seats were touched up, so overall PTV should be a wash. The oil has to be coming from the valvestem seals or the PCV. I am thinking valve stem seals and thats what getting replaced next. It seems like far too much oil to be just the PCV.


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