Oil Pressure went ZERO on way to work!
Oil Pressure went ZERO on way to work! Just recently installed an LS2 w/ my ported LS6 pump from my old motor.
1200 miles have been put on since I did the swap.
Oil press. has been consistent 40-45psi hot at Idle until today.
Was driving down the freeway today and my oil pressure was at 0, at 2k rpm it builds about 10psi No pressure at all at Idle. I put 10 miles on the car with hardly any pressure.
Do these pumps just crap out like this? Wtf could cause this? I know the O-ring was installed properly b/c I have gone through that before.
1200 miles have been put on since I did the swap.
Oil press. has been consistent 40-45psi hot at Idle until today.
Was driving down the freeway today and my oil pressure was at 0, at 2k rpm it builds about 10psi No pressure at all at Idle. I put 10 miles on the car with hardly any pressure.
Do these pumps just crap out like this? Wtf could cause this? I know the O-ring was installed properly b/c I have gone through that before.
I think you probably have a wiring problem or a pressure sending unit problem...I saw you have heads/cam/intake...it's possible that the harness to the sending unit (right behind the intake manifold on the top of the block) was snagged at some point and possibly resulted in some damage when the heads/cam/intake mods were performed...and if it was minr enough damage, the damage could have just taken some time, heat cycling, and vibration to manifest itself as a bad gauge reading.
For further assurance that the engine is ok...I'd say it's worth it for you to change the oil and filter immediately, and cut the old filter open...if you really ran for 10 miles without oil pressure and the engine is still running, I'd expect to see metal (bearing material) in the filter media.
Did the engine develop any knocks or other sounds during that 10 miles?
For further assurance that the engine is ok...I'd say it's worth it for you to change the oil and filter immediately, and cut the old filter open...if you really ran for 10 miles without oil pressure and the engine is still running, I'd expect to see metal (bearing material) in the filter media.
Did the engine develop any knocks or other sounds during that 10 miles?
I think you probably have a wiring problem or a pressure sending unit problem...I saw you have heads/cam/intake...it's possible that the harness to the sending unit (right behind the intake manifold on the top of the block) was snagged at some point and possibly resulted in some damage when the heads/cam/intake mods were performed...and if it was minr enough damage, the damage could have just taken some time, heat cycling, and vibration to manifest itself as a bad gauge reading.
For further assurance that the engine is ok...I'd say it's worth it for you to change the oil and filter immediately, and cut the old filter open...if you really ran for 10 miles without oil pressure and the engine is still running, I'd expect to see metal (bearing material) in the filter media.
Did the engine develop any knocks or other sounds during that 10 miles?
For further assurance that the engine is ok...I'd say it's worth it for you to change the oil and filter immediately, and cut the old filter open...if you really ran for 10 miles without oil pressure and the engine is still running, I'd expect to see metal (bearing material) in the filter media.
Did the engine develop any knocks or other sounds during that 10 miles?
The engine sounded fine, and didnt make any different/ louder noise with no oil pressure, so that was the only reason I drove it. What is bearing material going to look like in the oil/ filter? I have a new SDPC pump on the way, But if what your saying is a possibility I might as well change out the sending unit first.
If you went 10 miles and the motor did not make any noises, I would tend to think you have an electrical issue. If you had no oil pressure the engine would start getting noisy pretty quick, especially when the lifters bleed down. Only when you run Slick 50 can you run an engine with no oil pressure and have no damage.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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The oil pressure sensor is crap I’ve I had to replace two in mine, so its a good chance thats it. But you always have to check so put a mechanical gauge in the valley plate and see what you get. If you read nothing or very little, put the gauge in the oil rifle in the sump and see what you get if still nothing without it rattling or knocking yet I would go straight to relief in the pump.
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Although I was careful not to snag the sending unit it could possibly be that.
The engine sounded fine, and didnt make any different/ louder noise with no oil pressure, so that was the only reason I drove it. What is bearing material going to look like in the oil/ filter? I have a new SDPC pump on the way, But if what your saying is a possibility I might as well change out the sending unit first.
The engine sounded fine, and didnt make any different/ louder noise with no oil pressure, so that was the only reason I drove it. What is bearing material going to look like in the oil/ filter? I have a new SDPC pump on the way, But if what your saying is a possibility I might as well change out the sending unit first.
I'd actually avoid replacing the pump until you've verified that the pressure is ok...and if it is ok, I wouldn't replace it...why risk opening the engine up when there might be absolutely no need to?
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Savannah, TN
No way i would do anything without putting a gauge on it. You will have to pull the sensor to replace anyway. you will be surprised as to how inacurate the cluster is. if it is in the wireing which i dont think it will be most of the time that happens it will stop reading not just be low. i have seen s sensore just read low . Post what you find
Swapped Sending Unit- Still ZERO So I ended up finally getting around to the car. after changing the sending unit the oil pressure still reads zero. So next I guess i will have to get a mechanical pressure gauge and possibly drop the oil to look for rod bearing material... whack
