Check this out... LQ9
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Check this out... LQ9 Well I recently stumbled upon a 2001 Z28 with 38k miles. The car came with a blown up H/C/I LS1. The car also had about 3k worth of extra parts to go with it, among those parts was a LQ9 out of an escalade. The 6.0 had all arp hardware through it... well when it took the number one rod cap off this is what I found...
It seems as if the rod end tolerances might have been shot and cause it to wollow loose and let go, the bearing was pretty much wedged between the #1 and #2 rod cap. I am hoping I can get the rods resized, assembly balanced and crank cut .010/.010 and be on my way.
It seems as if the rod end tolerances might have been shot and cause it to wollow loose and let go, the bearing was pretty much wedged between the #1 and #2 rod cap. I am hoping I can get the rods resized, assembly balanced and crank cut .010/.010 and be on my way.
Last edited by Matts94Z28; May 7, 2009 at 11:01 PM. Reason: CAN'T SPELL!
I dont think you can have the rod resized because the LS style rods are crack rods. That's how they match the cap to the rod. .You will need to get a new rod or a used one on here.
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Really? I did not know that, I am coming from an LT1 so this is still some what new to me. Maybe I can find a used set of LQ9 rods for cheap. Then again, wouldn't I be able to make up the slack by turning the crank and getting over sized bearings, or am I way off?
Anyone have any ideas?
Anyone have any ideas?
By removing the rod bearing beside the spun bearing will tell you if the cranks can be saved, IF you need to turn the crank .030" thats only .015" off each side if the journal. So if its cut to deep, then you will haft to replace the crank. I give you some idea, take a set of filler gauges and see how thin a .015".really is.
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By removing the rod bearing beside the spun bearing will tell you if the cranks can be saved, IF you need to turn the crank .030" thats only .015" off each side if the journal. So if its cut to deep, then you will haft to replace the crank. I give you some idea, take a set of filler gauges and see how thin a .015".really is.
Can anyone clear up the myth about the LQ9 rod being better than the LS1 and LQ4 rods? I have two sets of stock LS1 rods that are in good shape and I have ARP rod bolts that are ready to be used. What should I look for to ensure I get the "better" LQ9 rods?
Thanks for the help!
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The LS2/LQ9 rods (same thing) are a bit beefier than the LS1 rods (IIRC, they're ~30g heavier) and they are bushed for floating pins instead of press fit.
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Thanks for the info guys! I'm not sure if the previous owner lost oil pressure or not. I sent him a PM to find out exactly what went on when the motor let go. I know it was in a high milage escalade originally. I'm sure it didn't like the MS3...
I have never seen a bearing get tore up like this, any ideas on what might have caused it? I appears to only be the #1... I will pull the #2 rod cap tomorrow. The bearing next to the tore up one is from rod #4
I have never seen a bearing get tore up like this, any ideas on what might have caused it? I appears to only be the #1... I will pull the #2 rod cap tomorrow. The bearing next to the tore up one is from rod #4
From what i see, its going to take a lot more than .010" to clean up the crank, .030" will be pushing it. I beleave your going to haft to replace the crank also. But have it check.
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I really don't think that crank has anything left in it... Look at the difference in size from where the #1 rod and the #2 ride on the crank. It's pretty baaaaad.
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Of course I will have it checked, but if I have to get it turned something like .030 then I will go another route. I am sure that will take away alot of the rigidity and strength.
Im with you ^^^, On the last pic, The #2 journal is wiped out. For what its going to cost you to have it turned ,if it can be ! You can find crank shafts in the for sale section for a 100 buck or so and have standard journals. You can take a LS1 crank and have the reluctor ring changed.
