any 408 stroker advice?
09-30-2009, 01:49 AM
#21
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^^^+1
especially the part of the money you were willing to spend on the rotating assembly.
maybe you see it as going back to the drawing board as far as the components is concerned, but really, you are not. you end up saving a little money, and you will have the cubic inches you wanted to begin with. hope this makes sense, and good luck!
especially the part of the money you were willing to spend on the rotating assembly.
maybe you see it as going back to the drawing board as far as the components is concerned, but really, you are not. you end up saving a little money, and you will have the cubic inches you wanted to begin with. hope this makes sense, and good luck!
09-30-2009, 06:34 AM
#22
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ok, well HP vs $$ which would be best, keep the LS1 block have it bored and resleeved to a 383 stroker , or get a used 6.0 iron block have it bored to a 408 stroker and sell the LS1?
09-30-2009, 09:00 PM
#23
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you don't really have to get an iron block to get a 408.
blancoSS and TSP gave you some ideas and price ranges i think are really good.
and, yes, you can go with one of those options, and still sell the LS1 to offset some of the expense. btw, that is what i did/am doing. check my sig.
blancoSS and TSP gave you some ideas and price ranges i think are really good.
and, yes, you can go with one of those options, and still sell the LS1 to offset some of the expense. btw, that is what i did/am doing.
check my sig.
10-01-2009, 06:47 AM
#24
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ok..well im still wondering which is better keeping the LS1 or going for the 408 cuz they said a LS1 can only go to a 383 soo..., but besides that what about trans, will my T56 bolt up to 6.0 block, or an LS3? but all in all if i go with the websites everyones talking about i can obviously get the parts i need cheaper, but which route can get the most HP for the lowest doller..383 , 6.0 - 408, LS3 , after buying the rotating assem. and top end?
10-01-2009, 07:37 AM
#25
The 408 will make more power. If you buy a block from the junkyard and have it machined and do the assembly yourself this is your best bang for the buck. But since you don't know how to build an engine your best best is to sell your ls1 and buy a 408 short block. Cheapest build for more power is a 383 but like I said you need to set a power goal and budget first.
How much RWHP do you want and how much do you have to spend. That is the basis for all you decisions. Do this right or you will be sorry.
How much RWHP do you want and how much do you have to spend
How much RWHP do you want and how much do you have to spend. That is the basis for all you decisions. Do this right or you will be sorry.
How much RWHP do you want and how much do you have to spend
10-01-2009, 09:11 AM
#26
The 408 will make more power. If you buy a block from the junkyard and have it machined and do the assembly yourself this is your best bang for the buck. But since you don't know how to build an engine your best best is to sell your ls1 and buy a 408 short block. Cheapest build for more power is a 383 but like I said you need to set a power goal and budget first.
How much RWHP do you want and how much do you have to spend. That is the basis for all you decisions. Do this right or you will be sorry.
How much RWHP do you want and how much do you have to spend
How much RWHP do you want and how much do you have to spend. That is the basis for all you decisions. Do this right or you will be sorry.
How much RWHP do you want and how much do you have to spend
10-01-2009, 09:07 PM
#27
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well i dont want to go any higher that 600 because thats all my rearend will hold, at least thats what they said ( its a 9in with 35 spline axels and a detroit locker 3.89 gears) so right around 550-600 and budget well im willing to spend what i have to, i cant drop it all at once, i will be saving up about $500 each month but as for how much it costs in the long run well i already have 27G's in it right now so i dont care to spend any on it lol. well from the sounds of it most likely just get the used 6.0 block and have it bored and get the rotating assembly and such, i have family that can help with the engine building its self ( grandpaw has been engine building for 46 years now) so i think ill go with the 408 idea and just take my time with it so everything comes out right. guys i cant thank you enough for all the time and opinions on everything if i can ever help you guys with anything let me know. i know nitrous and sterios pretty well lol.
10-03-2009, 02:54 AM
#28
well i dont want to go any higher that 600 because thats all my rearend will hold, at least thats what they said ( its a 9in with 35 spline axels and a detroit locker 3.89 gears) so right around 550-600 and budget well im willing to spend what i have to, i cant drop it all at once, i will be saving up about $500 each month but as for how much it costs in the long run well i already have 27G's in it right now so i dont care to spend any on it lol. well from the sounds of it most likely just get the used 6.0 block and have it bored and get the rotating assembly and such, i have family that can help with the engine building its self ( grandpaw has been engine building for 46 years now) so i think ill go with the 408 idea and just take my time with it so everything comes out right. guys i cant thank you enough for all the time and opinions on everything if i can ever help you guys with anything let me know. i know nitrous and sterios pretty well lol.
10-06-2009, 12:22 AM
#29
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if you want to stay aluminum and get bigger cubes go with 402ci made from an alminum 6.0 LS2 block.
also, your rearend should easily hold over 600rwhp with a locker and 35 spline axels in a 9".
also, your rearend should easily hold over 600rwhp with a locker and 35 spline axels in a 9".
10-09-2009, 05:37 PM
#31
Yea I think he is thinking he can only bore the block to get to 383 or 408. All you need is a stroker crank man. How do you think they make all these big cubic inch motors? Not by boring them all the way out to that size, a 383 "stroker" isn't bored out to 383 its stroked to 383 with a stroker crankshaft.
10-09-2009, 06:04 PM
#32
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9in w/35 splines i would shove 1000rwhp to that and sleep very well at night
my .02 GO 408 with a mid level rotating assy. bang for buck best option and l92 heads + a little n20
i would make sure whoever helps you build it relizes its a gen3 late model block not a 70's 350 or you will be in trouble
my .02 GO 408 with a mid level rotating assy. bang for buck best option and l92 heads + a little n20
i would make sure whoever helps you build it relizes its a gen3 late model block not a 70's 350 or you will be in trouble
10-09-2009, 09:06 PM
#33
Yea I think he is thinking he can only bore the block to get to 383 or 408. All you need is a stroker crank man. How do you think they make all these big cubic inch motors? Not by boring them all the way out to that size, a 383 "stroker" isn't bored out to 383 its stroked to 383 with a stroker crankshaft.
10-09-2009, 09:31 PM
#34
Get a Iron 408 built. Aluminum is nice but weight isn't going to be that big of a deal on the street. Every little bit helps at # at the track but it's cheaper and your not looking at cracking any records with it. I built mine with that mindset. My setup you can't get on anymore of a budget and still somewhat do it right the first time. If your looking 408ish then you also need to look into 1 7/8" longtubes, get a decent set of heads, ARP bolts, clutch, and a rear for sure. Make sure you have all the proper boltons while you are doing the motor swap the first time. A buddy of mine has a 408 in his Hawk and still running on the 10 bolt. Lets just say that it probably won't be lasting him too much longer lol.
03-16-2014, 03:32 AM
#35
You can get an iron block from Summit on sale for $650.00 reg $750.00. It has already been clearance for a 4.00 inch stroke and H-beam rods. It comes with freeze plugs and cam bearings installed. All that has to be done is the final hone to fit your pistons. You cannot bore a aluminum block. All you can do is hone it a few thousands.
