Project_Reaper

Hey guys im buying a lunati 408 stroker kit, and ive already got my 9in rear setup , clutch and flywheel setup, but i was wondering does anyone have any advice on what cam size and head work would go well with this set up? heres the specs...

The LS1 kit uses a 4.030" bore and a 4.000" stroke to achieve 408 cubic inches. Pistons are Lunati flat tops, forged from 4032 forged aluminum and CNC-profiled in Lunati's state-of-the-art piston turning facility. These pistons weigh 374 grams and have a 1.130" compression height. Ring lands are 1.5mm, 1.5mm and 3mm and piston-to-wall clearance is .0025". Rings are from GM.

Connecting rods are Lunati Pro Billet Super Lights made from 4340 aircraft-quality billet steel and measure 6.125" center-to center length.

A Lunati Pro Series non-twist forged crankshaft made of 4340 aircraft quality forged steel has a 4.000" stroke and weighs 45 pounds.

now im running this street and strip, its no longer my daily driver BUT i still want it to be drivable on the street , so i will go with an aggressive cam and heads setup, but im not sure what cam specs nor cc port on the heads and the valve springs and push rods will be determined with the specs on the ported heads. any help at all would be great guys.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Thats a lot of money for a rotating assembly (guessing 4200?), you can save about $1800 by going with Callies and Wiseco.

TFS 235's are very popular on a 408, to many variables to suggest a cam size by the information provided.

Project_Reaper

im actually getting the kit for $3600..and i dont need a for sure set size cam, i was just wondering which size cams and head cc setup go good on 408's , ya know, just to get an idea of around what size cam to get, and of course your heads will be ported to the proper cc depending on how much lope and or over lap the valves will have due to the new cam. im just new to the cam and didnt know what size is concidered small and what size cam is concidered agressive ya know? ( keeping in mind its not a full drag car, but its not a daily driver either, so something in between... )

fatmat80

some people have seen good results with the tsp giant cam, but if your spending that kind of bread on a rotating assembly i suggest spending the extra coin and contacting pat g or another reputable cam guru for a custom gring...good luck with the build..

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

there are a lot of variable you are missing for a cam selection. Get ahold of Patrick G and fill out his sheet and he can get a custom cam for ya.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I would still save money and go with a Callies/Wiseco kit instead. $3600 is $1200 more than you need to spend.

Project_Reaper

thanks guys for the tips...umm you said black01 that im still missing some variables to determine a good cam selection...what other information would you need for a good estimate?

novaflash2002

iTrader: (51)

i would talk to louis at lg motorsports. lg cams make some good power under the curve. as far as heads go is there a budget you are looking at styaing in? et preformance makes some good heads.

smok'nZ

iTrader: (160)

X2 on the non lunati unless your going for 1xxx rwhp eagle/callies are nothing to complain about and i have only heard good things about wiseco, TFS 235 or E.T 225-245's is what id go with if money wasnt an issue

Project_Reaper

ok, well it sounds like a custom grind will most likly be the most benificial choice to go, and wouldnt it be cheaper to just have my heads ported and polished instead of buying new ones?

novaflash2002

iTrader: (51)

it would be cheaper, but if you go a little cheaper on your bottem end like bloncos mentioned you would have a little extra $ to put on some good heads.

cutlass_455

iTrader: (2)

Im curious why no one has suggested LS3/L92 heads?? I want to build a 403/408 as well, but I was thinking put on LS3 heads and a new FAST intake.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Yep and it makes more sense that way as well as your heads/top end makes the power. That heavy *** crank isn't helping to make power either, but a set of Trick flows or AFR's or All Pro's on top will wake up what ever crank and rods and you used.. they (crank and rods) don't make power just transfer it and in the case of a heavy *** crank and rods eat some of it up.

few more points as well:


Specing a cam is the last thing to do in a build.

Application application application... we have a 24 point questionnaire we have our customer fill out to properly spec a cam to their needs.

PatickG will do the same and is a good choice to talk to, his fee's are very modest and he provides a good service.

Set a budget and power goal first. Then figure out your short block/long based on your hp needs. Then cam it properly for your application.

Budget will dictate the build so get that set in stone first.

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

Checkout this link on rotating assemblies. There's a lot of good options that don't cost $3600!!


http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=886&catid=88

Cylinder heads & camshaft need to be selected based off the entire package. After you decide what compression, and all the surounding mods giv us a call. I'd be happy to help you put together a camshaft & cylinder head combo to match your goals for the car. We've had great results with the PRC 237cc heads making over 670flywheel horsepower on 408 iron block applications with the right camshaft.

It's all about making a combo that works together.

Project_Reaper

well i cant thank you guys enough, not only did you save me alot of hassell so far but sounds like your gonna save me alot of money in the long run. i appriciate it guys, ill post back when i have solid specifications and get ready to start ordering parts

Project_Reaper

ouch guys i feel like an idiot..umm i did a little more research and was told that you dont have the factory aluminum block bored out to a 408 that it will only go to a 383..is this so?i know if i bore it any it will have to be resleeved but..i really dont want to go to a iron block because of the weight...so i guess the question im asking is with the factory all aluminum LS1 346ci block...how big of a bore can i go ( 383 or 408) on this block, or will i have to go to a iron block? sorry for the slip up guys... im still egarly learning all this stuff....

racer7088

Correct a 5.7 block would be a 383 and teh 6.0 iron block can be bored out to the 408 size.

Project_Reaper

....thank you for clearing that up for me...well that sucks now i have to completly re-plan everything...*sigh* well back to the drawing board. thanks again for all your help guys i truly appriciate it

the jester 812

iTrader: (5)

you can pick up used iron 6.0's dirt cheap, that's what i did, and of your having it bored anyway, and replacing everything inside what difference does it make if its used. and the extra power you will be making will way more than offset the weight you will gain, unless your planning on auto crossing the car and worried about it upsetting the balance. i have seen used iron 6.0's go for 400 bucks. you can sell your ls1 for way more than that, and put the extra towards your rotating assembly. just my .02 cents

MelScrilla

iTrader: (2)

with the money you were willing to spend on that rotating assembly you could have pretty much any shortblock for a few $$ more. You can buy a whole 408 for about $3600, or you can step up to bigger and better things if your willing to get into the $4500 range.

As for heads stock LS1 heads are pretty much worthless on big cubes. 243's (Z06) heads are better for cubes like TSP stage 3 243's would probably do the job on a budget. The PRC 237's are the best bang for the buck aftermarket heads and all pros are about top of the line.