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Looking to build 454lsx

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Old 01-14-2010 | 11:33 PM
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Default Looking to build 454lsx

Ive been looking into building either a lsx 454 or a ls3 427. I was wondering about reliability problems with such a short rod to stroke ratio? Also whos short block would be recommended as far as price and reliability? Does anyone offer a warranty with a short block? Im wanting to make 550 to 650 rwhp with a 6spd gto.
Old 01-14-2010 | 11:59 PM
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550 to 650 is a huge difference with a n/a engine! But hke and lme are both proven builders along with many other sponors on here. I think they will all warranty on the work on the engine but as far as when its in your car i dont think anyone will warranty it once you start beating on it lol.
Old 01-15-2010 | 12:05 AM
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Ya 550 plus would be great. Im at 500 rwhp with my maggie setup now just want more. Plus the na cars ive been in with close to 500rwhp seem alot faster.
Old 01-15-2010 | 06:15 AM
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Reliability should not be an issue if its built properly. I offer HKE precision racing engines, pm'ed with information
Old 01-15-2010 | 07:05 AM
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Contact Shawn at VA Speed. He's doing a Darton sleeved 427 for me right now. I should end up being a very mild 550/500 setup.
Old 01-15-2010 | 09:10 AM
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Remember that HP numbers aren't everything. I decided to go from a 454 4.125 stroke 4.187 bore, to a 443 with a 4 inch stroke and 4.20 bore. Motor revs faster, an is going to like the nitrous. I made 570 with some TEA ported 317 heads, and a relatively small camshaft through a 6spd and 9 inch.

-Clayton
Old 01-15-2010 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 03supercobra
Remember that HP numbers aren't everything. I decided to go from a 454 4.125 stroke 4.187 bore, to a 443 with a 4 inch stroke and 4.20 bore. Motor revs faster, an is going to like the nitrous. I made 570 with some TEA ported 317 heads, and a relatively small camshaft through a 6spd and 9 inch.

-Clayton
Do you have any track numbers? Do you know what your car weighs? What intake are you running? Sound like a mean setup.
Old 01-15-2010 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Reliability should not be an issue if its built properly. I offer HKE precision racing engines, pm'ed with information
Thanks for the pm. I will be giving you a call monday.
Old 01-15-2010 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 03supercobra
Remember that HP numbers aren't everything. I decided to go from a 454 4.125 stroke 4.187 bore, to a 443 with a 4 inch stroke and 4.20 bore. Motor revs faster, an is going to like the nitrous. I made 570 with some TEA ported 317 heads, and a relatively small camshaft through a 6spd and 9 inch.

-Clayton
Results? Did you run the car before and after? What is quicker at the track the car that revs quicker or the car with more hp?
Old 01-15-2010 | 05:20 PM
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Give Mikey at Rapid Motorsports a call. He does excellent work and knows how to make power. Numbers are in the sig.
Old 01-15-2010 | 10:46 PM
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Going to make some calls monday. Thanks
Old 01-16-2010 | 03:37 PM
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Doesnt a 4.125 stroke with only a 6.125 rod cause any sideload problems? I thought the general rule was to stay above 1.5 rod to stroke ratio and a 454 would only be 1.48?
Old 01-16-2010 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Results? Did you run the car before and after? What is quicker at the track the car that revs quicker or the car with more hp?
its the car with the lower et number
Old 01-16-2010 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by delphigto
Do you have any track numbers? Do you know what your car weighs? What intake are you running? Sound like a mean setup.
I have only had it at the track once and it went 11.1 at 128 with 17 inch wheels (my first time at the track ever), 6spd car at 3700 lbs, Koni suspension, it has a fast 90/90. Hopefully this season ill get a 10.8 on motor or so. The car made 570/555. Thanks for the compliment! Hope the info helps some.

Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Results? Did you run the car before and after? What is quicker at the track the car that revs quicker or the car with more hp?
The old motor burnt oil from day one, so never ran it. This motor also made more power than my old one , remember RPM's are your friend. FWIW Eric is the one who told me to stay away from the 4.125 crank when building a nitrous motor.
Old 01-16-2010 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 03supercobra
.



The old motor burnt oil from day one, so never ran it. This motor also made more power than my old one , remember RPM's are your friend. FWIW Eric is the one who told me to stay away from the 4.125 crank when building a nitrous motor.

Couple things here:

You never compared to one to the other at the track so you don't have any results thats says a smaller engine makes a car quicker.

You made more power because the other engine was built wrong if it was eating oil.

Erik does not recommend a power add when the piston is compromised, not directly due to the stroke of the crank. The piston gets compromised on the longer stroke.
Old 01-16-2010 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Couple things here:

You never compared to one to the other at the track so you don't have any results thats says a smaller engine makes a car quicker.

You made more power because the other engine was built wrong if it was eating oil.

Erik does not recommend a power add when the piston is compromised, not directly due to the stroke of the crank. The piston gets compromised on the longer stroke.
I am planning on running a decent size shot and just used Erik's advice and many others on the 4" stoke on the iron blocks without risking side loading. We all know the more stroke, the more angle, and bad rod-ratio.

How does that statement make sense? Maybe im not reading it clearly?

Haha your kinda jumpin on me off the bat aren't you? I was just providing my info, hopefully to help this guy in his decision making process.

Im saying in my case my new setup made more power, there were alot of variables along with oil burning. I didn't setup the last motor that was in it.

From my understanding you can't run a good nitrous piston, ring-land design and wrist-pin location, with that long of a stroke on the iron blocks.
Old 01-16-2010 | 09:23 PM
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I was not jumping on you, just correcting a few things you said.

Someone reading what you had posted might get mislead.

Yes the sleeve length is not of such that you can run the longer stroke without compromising the piston.
Old 01-17-2010 | 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
I was not jumping on you, just correcting a few things you said.

Someone reading what you had posted might get mislead.

Yes the sleeve length is not of such that you can run the longer stroke without compromising the piston.
So we are both saying the same thing?
Old 01-17-2010 | 04:42 AM
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Sort of. The sleeve length is the issue not rod to stroke ratio and side-loading.
Old 01-17-2010 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Sort of. The sleeve length is the issue not rod to stroke ratio and side-loading.
Its all in how you look at it, the cylinders are shorter as you stated on the iron blocks. That is why i changed to a 4" stroke, and is what i was saying about switching to a 443 instead of the 454.

But, increased stroke does cause more side loading on the pistons, and you always want to use the longest rod possible. Maybe thats just my opinion


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