djsanchez2

iTrader: (14)

^^^ HAHAHAHA yeah with all of it's 172hp (at the crank)

http://www.canadiandriver.com/2006/0...on-tuscani.htm

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

IMHO: If this is a car you're going to be driving around on the street and with a composite manifold, keep the intake duration under 234 - maybe even around 230 - and use lift to gain area. The exhaust keep around 240 - also with lift. You don't need to push the lsa way out. 112 ICL or a little less works great.

Phil'sC5vette

iTrader: (4)

I want a 402 set up

SUTTERERMAN85

iTrader: (42)

way too much cam. im going smaller on my next one. 230/242 on 110 lsa

Phil'sC5vette

iTrader: (4)

where can I get a good forged short block 402 so I can use my AFR heads , FAST 90/90 and pan

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

Much more better...

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (6)

I'm planning on a cam similar to what SpinMonster specs out... 231/234 duration. A big exhaust duration means that the exhaust valve opens sooner, which hurts low end torque... something that I'm not willing to sacrifice. Everything I've seen from his cams impresses me.

JabaTheOnly

Ok so I talked to the guy and found full specs and I believe I am sorta screwed. It is a 238/246 Dual pattern comp cam xe . He swears up and down it will run amazing but honestly I have lost any faith in him. So how much should expect when they fire it up that I will snap a rod or jack up various other parts

JabaTheOnly

i asked comp camp and they said its fine if its .500 accross the board so i asked and he agreed

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

I'll guess 465-470 at the wheels.

FWIW: That cam would work well with cathedral port heads..

PM sent.

hymey

go less duration overall a 230xfi 234xer 114+2 or if you want more low end go 224xfi lobe or a 227 intake with the later comp lobes and run it on a 110-112 lsa, The ex timing is not that sensitive really, the intake is though to much slows the airspeed down thru the port, the piston is on its way up and the valve is open so when it drops back down there is no airspeed generated in the intake port. You can make a lot of power using a mid 220s intake with high lift say 224 or 228 with hi lift run a 114 lsa if u want it to hold on up top, a tight lsa like 110 to make it work down low, I would stay around 224 or 228 and 230s ex. Spend a little on getting a decent valve job, PAC 1521 springs shimmed right and decent lifters it will be a quick car. I have tuned a lot of L92 head 6L below 4000rpm with 230s-240s cams they have nothing, a 220s cam in these will eat a LS2 cathedral head car with a 232-234, thats the main thing to remember.

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

If you got a cam like that and its only .500 lift with a 1.7 rocker, then you need to find a different place.

We have some really good cams that are setup well for the rect port heads. They do have some split to them, but not a huge amount. We have a 226/234 610/625 114+4. I can grind this also on a lower LSA. We also have a 230/238 with the same lift, and I can also do that one on 112 or lower. If you call 10 different places to spec a cam, you will get at least 8 different answers. Everyone likes their own cam. And their own specs. You can see this in the various posts on this thread alone.

Your shop appears to not know what is going on.

The better part about the rect port heads, is that they do not need a gargantuan amount of intake duration to produce power. They have been shown to do better with some sort of split, but nothing like the LS7 heads. Some people read too much into the split or size of the cam and not enough into the dynamics of how the cam will actually work in real life.

JabaTheOnly

Thank you for that. This shop is completely dickin me around. For the last 2 weeks they said its gonna be done tonight. I believe I am going to go up their next week and demand they give me my money back. Even with the stock motor already gone that will just make it easier for another shop to do it right? I honestly have been screwed over way to much so please noone say anything rash. If it isnt already done by monday then I will be taking all the ideas that I can get for the new setup. Thanks for all the help.

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

Yes, with the OG engine out, the swap is alot easier. That is 1/3 of the work done right there.

blackmagicturbo

iTrader: (2)

Why did you have a motor built by someone else besides someone on here ? or were you not on ls1 tech before you started building? just curious... seems like anybody who knows how to build lsx is on here.. and you asked questions after you started building the motor.. kinda a waste of time for you and the builder.. just my opinion, good luck on the build..

JabaTheOnly

To be honest most of the ls1 guys from el paso use the shop in which I went to. Also I did not know that the guy already picked up the cam for the car so I believe I had a fair ammount of time left. Plus I was just trying to get a brief description of power range.

IrocZTransAm

Geez dudes an moron unless it's twin engine Tiburon in El Paso.
Thats a huge cam Jaba. I know we are going smaller than that for my friends car. Doing it at Iceman's pad. Swing by this sunday@3pm over at Album park. Getting together.
Paul(Aka 85IrocZ Fbody El Paso)

JabaTheOnly

I will definitely try to be their but I may have to work. Just got the car back and all I need is the tune. It runs extremely well except for it dies at idle at times. I only had one issue other then that which was the clutch stuck on the interstate but I should be upgrading soon anyways

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

I would be wary of any abnormal noises. There are alot of things that dont really add up.

Stang's Bane

iTrader: (22)

This is so not even close to the truth. There are many many people/shops that know how to build these motors that are not on here.

I know nothing about the OP's situation, I just wanted to comment on that.

BTW, there are a few places that sponsor here that I would trust to build my motor, and they are the ones that actually build it themselves, not the ones that have it done 3rd party. JMHO.