LS3 in '98 Z28: First startup concerns
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,072
Likes: 76
From: Casselberry FL
LS3 in '98 Z28: First startup concerns Fired up the car for the first time this afternoon with the new LS3. It has rolling idle symptoms and we thought just fixing the IAC and in gear airflow was the resolution. So I take it home and let it sit while I get some other tasks out of the way. Total of about 8 miles on the new motor.
While coming home, SES sets. Scan it later tonight and get P103, P107 & P343. P103 because the car is in speed density without a MAF installed. P107 is a MAP low voltage (scanner says MAP is constant 10kPa). P343 is cam sensor high voltage.
These are the parts I used:
- original LS1 MAP sensor which was working fine before removal from the old motor
- GM cam sensor P/N 12591720
- Katech MAP sensor extension harness KAT-4751
- Katech Cam/Knock sensor adapter harness KAT-4750
Being my only car, I was really looking forward to being independent again, and I've already taken two unscheduled days off from work this week and can't take any more.
Any simple things I can check? Can I safely drive the car in this state? Would putting the MAF back in be of any benefit in keeping it safely drivable until the two sensor issues are resolved (hopefully tomorrow before the sun sets)?
Some other clean-up issues:
- the driver side ARH headers come VERY close to the knock sensor wiring in the side of the block and will probably need header wrap
- we will be fabricating a better throttle bracket this weekend
- Racetronix fuel system upgrade this weekend
- Need to re-attach the thin connection at the back of the intake, looks like the plastic tube was broken at the end
While coming home, SES sets. Scan it later tonight and get P103, P107 & P343. P103 because the car is in speed density without a MAF installed. P107 is a MAP low voltage (scanner says MAP is constant 10kPa). P343 is cam sensor high voltage.
These are the parts I used:
- original LS1 MAP sensor which was working fine before removal from the old motor
- GM cam sensor P/N 12591720
- Katech MAP sensor extension harness KAT-4751
- Katech Cam/Knock sensor adapter harness KAT-4750
Being my only car, I was really looking forward to being independent again, and I've already taken two unscheduled days off from work this week and can't take any more.
Any simple things I can check? Can I safely drive the car in this state? Would putting the MAF back in be of any benefit in keeping it safely drivable until the two sensor issues are resolved (hopefully tomorrow before the sun sets)?
Some other clean-up issues:
- the driver side ARH headers come VERY close to the knock sensor wiring in the side of the block and will probably need header wrap
- we will be fabricating a better throttle bracket this weekend
- Racetronix fuel system upgrade this weekend
- Need to re-attach the thin connection at the back of the intake, looks like the plastic tube was broken at the end
Last edited by JimMueller; Jun 20, 2010 at 07:40 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,072
Likes: 76
From: Casselberry FL
For the P107, it sounds like it was poor harness quality control allowing the pins to be pushed out of the plastic shell. Idling nice and smooth over the phone now. The P343 will need to wait until the car is on jackstands this weekend, but two start attempts seems to be the minor side effect until then.
Do you have a sporadic tach and/or hard start issue? Might swap the A and C wires on the cam sensor extension and see if it helps if so!
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,072
Likes: 76
From: Casselberry FL
Don't have the sporadic tach, but I do randomly have a hard start issue. That's what my friend was thinking also... swap pins A & C. We'll try that Saturday morning.
Did you use LPE's 58x-24x conversion module?
If so, you MUST extend the pigtails and put the box inside the cabin. MUST MUST MUST! If you choose not to listen, bring a cooler and ice pack with you at all times. Ask me why...
You also should use regular OEM plug wires for several reasons, including random driveability issues and DTCs.
If so, you MUST extend the pigtails and put the box inside the cabin. MUST MUST MUST! If you choose not to listen, bring a cooler and ice pack with you at all times. Ask me why...
You also should use regular OEM plug wires for several reasons, including random driveability issues and DTCs.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,072
Likes: 76
From: Casselberry FL
Yesterday we installed the Racetronix 98 F-body fuel pump kit & hot wire kit. The pump kit has a small metal clamp which is used as an additional seal to the pressure fit hose (the same type OEM uses). We realized after putting the rear end back together and looking at the old pump on the floor, that we had put the clamp on but didn't tighten it because of a lack of appropriate tool. Hopefully no problem there. We confirmed the fuel pump would prime multiple times before putting the rear end in, then buttoned her up.
We then switched pins A&C on the cam sensor, and that code went away.
I started it to go home later, and I noticed the fuel gauge was practically empty (but I was on an incline). So I drove it to the local gas station and it would only take 10 gallons. I checked the fuel gauge and it still showed below E. Then as I was driving around, the gauge very slowly creeped up to just past the 3/4 mark, and that's as high as it went. I do believe it went down a wee bit on the way home though as normal.
Any recommendations on how to handle the fuel gauge inaccuracy?
We also saw a couple of drops of what appeared to be oil coming from the bellhousing/oilpan mating surface. We wiped it down and will monitor. The engine builder said he's never had a leak before, but there's a first time for everything and he'll take care of me if there's a problem.
I also notice that I will randomly get what appears to be a plume of white smoke behind the car (it's not tire smoke LOL). This last time was while making a u-turn and then accelerating out of the turn. Revving the motor while parked isn't giving any smoke at all. Ideas?
We then switched pins A&C on the cam sensor, and that code went away.
I started it to go home later, and I noticed the fuel gauge was practically empty (but I was on an incline). So I drove it to the local gas station and it would only take 10 gallons. I checked the fuel gauge and it still showed below E. Then as I was driving around, the gauge very slowly creeped up to just past the 3/4 mark, and that's as high as it went. I do believe it went down a wee bit on the way home though as normal.
Any recommendations on how to handle the fuel gauge inaccuracy?
We also saw a couple of drops of what appeared to be oil coming from the bellhousing/oilpan mating surface. We wiped it down and will monitor. The engine builder said he's never had a leak before, but there's a first time for everything and he'll take care of me if there's a problem.
I also notice that I will randomly get what appears to be a plume of white smoke behind the car (it's not tire smoke LOL). This last time was while making a u-turn and then accelerating out of the turn. Revving the motor while parked isn't giving any smoke at all. Ideas?
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Yesterday we installed the Racetronix 98 F-body fuel pump kit & hot wire kit. The pump kit has a small metal clamp which is used as an additional seal to the pressure fit hose (the same type OEM uses). We realized after putting the rear end back together and looking at the old pump on the floor, that we had put the clamp on but didn't tighten it because of a lack of appropriate tool. Hopefully no problem there. We confirmed the fuel pump would prime multiple times before putting the rear end in, then buttoned her up.
We then switched pins A&C on the cam sensor, and that code went away.
I started it to go home later, and I noticed the fuel gauge was practically empty (but I was on an incline). So I drove it to the local gas station and it would only take 10 gallons. I checked the fuel gauge and it still showed below E. Then as I was driving around, the gauge very slowly creeped up to just past the 3/4 mark, and that's as high as it went. I do believe it went down a wee bit on the way home though as normal.
Any recommendations on how to handle the fuel gauge inaccuracy?
We also saw a couple of drops of what appeared to be oil coming from the bellhousing/oilpan mating surface. We wiped it down and will monitor. The engine builder said he's never had a leak before, but there's a first time for everything and he'll take care of me if there's a problem.
I also notice that I will randomly get what appears to be a plume of white smoke behind the car (it's not tire smoke LOL). This last time was while making a u-turn and then accelerating out of the turn. Revving the motor while parked isn't giving any smoke at all. Ideas?
We then switched pins A&C on the cam sensor, and that code went away.
I started it to go home later, and I noticed the fuel gauge was practically empty (but I was on an incline). So I drove it to the local gas station and it would only take 10 gallons. I checked the fuel gauge and it still showed below E. Then as I was driving around, the gauge very slowly creeped up to just past the 3/4 mark, and that's as high as it went. I do believe it went down a wee bit on the way home though as normal.
Any recommendations on how to handle the fuel gauge inaccuracy?
We also saw a couple of drops of what appeared to be oil coming from the bellhousing/oilpan mating surface. We wiped it down and will monitor. The engine builder said he's never had a leak before, but there's a first time for everything and he'll take care of me if there's a problem.
I also notice that I will randomly get what appears to be a plume of white smoke behind the car (it's not tire smoke LOL). This last time was while making a u-turn and then accelerating out of the turn. Revving the motor while parked isn't giving any smoke at all. Ideas?
Smoke is likely related to oil leak (hitting exhaust) if I had to guess. Perhaps PCV related...?
(deja vu thread)
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,072
Likes: 76
From: Casselberry FL
A squeaking/squealing noise has also been intermittent. The builder recommended I check the contents of the catch can.
Pulled the Noris catch can, and noticed that the end with the PCV valve in it was connected to the valley cover instead of the intake. The can had not been cleaned out from the past motor, and there was maybe at most 1/8" of oil in the bottom. Cleaned it out and put it back on. It appears the spacing has changed because my fuel lines for the catch can are now a little short to the valley cover and a little long to the intake.
Started the car and no squeal, but that may be coincidence. Could having the PCV lines backwards have generated any squealing noise or the smoke show under sharp turns or certain types of acceleration in higher gears at low RPM's? I still think I must have an oil leak somewhere, because whenever I get the smoke show we can smell a hydraulic odor in the cabin.
I also think there's another problem with the fuel level sender. It already appears to max out at 3/4, but on the way home the motor seemed to start stuttering when the needle was slightly above E. Not sure if it was not getting fuel or another problem. But I was right near a gas station, and a 'fill up' took about 10 gallons. It didn't seem to stutter the remainder of the trip home. I'm almost ready to take it to the dealer for the fuel sender, because if it doesn't work, then they fix it again for free, and provide the rental car also.
Pulled the Noris catch can, and noticed that the end with the PCV valve in it was connected to the valley cover instead of the intake. The can had not been cleaned out from the past motor, and there was maybe at most 1/8" of oil in the bottom. Cleaned it out and put it back on. It appears the spacing has changed because my fuel lines for the catch can are now a little short to the valley cover and a little long to the intake.
Started the car and no squeal, but that may be coincidence. Could having the PCV lines backwards have generated any squealing noise or the smoke show under sharp turns or certain types of acceleration in higher gears at low RPM's? I still think I must have an oil leak somewhere, because whenever I get the smoke show we can smell a hydraulic odor in the cabin.
I also think there's another problem with the fuel level sender. It already appears to max out at 3/4, but on the way home the motor seemed to start stuttering when the needle was slightly above E. Not sure if it was not getting fuel or another problem. But I was right near a gas station, and a 'fill up' took about 10 gallons. It didn't seem to stutter the remainder of the trip home. I'm almost ready to take it to the dealer for the fuel sender, because if it doesn't work, then they fix it again for free, and provide the rental car also.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,072
Likes: 76
From: Casselberry FL
Don't know where I'm going with the fuel situation yet. Just keeping an eye on the gauge.
Although I moved the dirty side of the catch can from the intake to the valley cover the other night, I didn't check the orientation of the PCV inside the hose. Long story short, flipping the PCV tube 180* got rid of all the noticeable smoking last night while trying to fix the issue. Had two instances of it today... one was a 2nd gear takeoff from a light with hard acceleration, and the other was sweeping left hander under acceleration.
Hoping to get the car back on the lift Saturday for the builder to resolve the leak and fix the upper A/C vent circulation (vacuum line loose behind intake).
Although I moved the dirty side of the catch can from the intake to the valley cover the other night, I didn't check the orientation of the PCV inside the hose. Long story short, flipping the PCV tube 180* got rid of all the noticeable smoking last night while trying to fix the issue. Had two instances of it today... one was a 2nd gear takeoff from a light with hard acceleration, and the other was sweeping left hander under acceleration.
Hoping to get the car back on the lift Saturday for the builder to resolve the leak and fix the upper A/C vent circulation (vacuum line loose behind intake).
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,072
Likes: 76
From: Casselberry FL
We found that the dipstick tube had a hole in it, but there was clearance between it and the header. We're guessing that somehow it was rubbing against the headers in the last motor, but because it was flush with the header it was burning off without smoking. I was burning oil but not leaking it on the previous motor. So when I turned left, the oil travels up the tube, sprays out the hole and onto the headers. We also found that the oil filter wasn't on as tight as it should have been. I don't know why a random 2nd gear start from a light would cause it to smoke though. So I'll be ordering a tube & maybe a new dipstick first thing Monday.
Developed a water leak yesterday, and a pretty bad one at that. Turns out one of my heater hoses developed a crack in it about 1-2 inches from the clamp on the motor. For now we cut off the end clamped it back on. I'll get pricing on new hoses & clamps and compare with used.
Removed the FTRA system because it affects my cooling too much. We got a used brake booster line and T'ed off it to connect to the vacuum line to restore the upper AC. We'll fix it correctle when we make time to pull the intake. I don't want to mess with it so soon after it was built.
The squeaking appears to be a pulley, just need to isolate which one. Put a stethoscope on each pulley and it seemed as if one of the AC pulleys was the culprit. May just replace them both.
Developed a water leak yesterday, and a pretty bad one at that. Turns out one of my heater hoses developed a crack in it about 1-2 inches from the clamp on the motor. For now we cut off the end clamped it back on. I'll get pricing on new hoses & clamps and compare with used.
Removed the FTRA system because it affects my cooling too much. We got a used brake booster line and T'ed off it to connect to the vacuum line to restore the upper AC. We'll fix it correctle when we make time to pull the intake. I don't want to mess with it so soon after it was built.
The squeaking appears to be a pulley, just need to isolate which one. Put a stethoscope on each pulley and it seemed as if one of the AC pulleys was the culprit. May just replace them both.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,072
Likes: 76
From: Casselberry FL
Got the replacement dipstick tube installed. 3 days later...cheez'n'rice, now the starter seems to have crapped out. Click no start. 12.75V at the stud on the starter. How many things break when you swap motors? grumble.
