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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 02:57 PM
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Default cooling question

lq9 with car pump.. running no heater, do the hoses need to loop back to one another or cap of be fine too cool okay?
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 03:20 PM
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Loop back is better IMO.

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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Loop back is better IMO.

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do not disagree what ur theory on it?
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by van383
do not disagree what ur theory on it?
Well, I'm not certain how it flows in there, but I can only assume coolant is pushed through one hose to the heater core and it returns through the other hose back to the water pump housing. Capping them, I would think, could cause some kind of backpressure or turbulance in there. Looping it back just keeps a FLOW going.

I carry an 8 inch long piece of hose to fit those two ports in case some day I'm out somewhere and my heater core takes a **** and starts leaking or my 12-year old factory heater hoses spring a leak. I can then simply pop the heater hoses off the water pump ports and clamp on the 8 inch hose I have....and drive away.

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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 04:36 PM
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do i have to run a thermostat for thing to flow right.. i got 160 and never seems to get under 220 temps or even open half the time?
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 04:39 PM
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Default bypass

I have just been doing research on this issue and what I have found is that they need to be looped together. The reason being is the stat is on the coolant inlet to the engine and the sensing side of the stat, is on the engine side, and the bypass allows coolant to flow over the sensing portion of the stat and makes it work as intended. From what I have been told, when connected with a heater coil it either flows thru the coil or bypasses the coil thus maintaining flow back to the stat. I don't understand why GM placed the stat on the inlet to the engine, as Maziere has placed their stat on the outlet of their electric water pump. If anyone has other info about this issue I hope that you will share it with us .
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jim copland
I have just been doing research on this issue and what I have found is that they need to be looped together. The reason being is the stat is on the coolant inlet to the engine and the sensing side of the stat, is on the engine side, and the bypass allows coolant to flow over the sensing portion of the stat and makes it work as intended. From what I have been told, when connected with a heater coil it either flows thru the coil or bypasses the coil thus maintaining flow back to the stat. I don't understand why GM placed the stat on the inlet to the engine, as Maziere has placed their stat on the outlet of their electric water pump. If anyone has other info about this issue I hope that you will share it with us .
well now its air locked so bad stat will not open as well.. just get the stem rolling out of coolant tubes and rad.. now??
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Well, I'm not certain how it flows in there, but I can only assume coolant is pushed through one hose to the heater core and it returns through the other hose back to the water pump housing. Capping them, I would think, could cause some kind of backpressure or turbulance in there. Looping it back just keeps a FLOW going.
I like your theory!!

van383 don't take the thermostat out!! That's what controls coolant flow in the radiator!!
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 09camaro383
I like your theory!!

van383 don't take the thermostat out!! That's what controls coolant flow in the radiator!!
really these things are suck a bare to bleed out.. well stat is in, heater is looped, finally got water to come out of coolant tubes and we off too dyno tomorrow with new set-up.. wish me luck! thanks for help guys
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 05:15 AM
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Ls1's have always been the easiest to get air out of for me. Yu leave the crossover tube off and fill the pump through the neck that sticks straight out.
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