Those with ERL superdeck blocks.....
#41
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I've used a lot of them and they work great! Even their "Dry Sleeve" holds up very well. Here is a boost motor with 850 HP with a Dry Sleeve block and my customer beats the crap outta it... No issues!
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Attachment 241386
#42
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Along with that you also have to evaluate your goals with the setup. My goals are to run a mid 8 in the 1/4 with a/c which few have done. A 370ci motor with a 4788 has been right around this time,(without a/c) so I knew there was really no gain to be had going to a 408 or 427 and larger turbo.
#43
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I looked at quite a few different setups before finally settling on a ERL LS2 364ci motor+a 88mm turbo. I like that in my case and many other 370's, we are using a longer rod(more durability). This was my main concern. I know a lot of people say the longevity betweeen a 370 and let's say a 427ci motor is the same, but I tend to disagree.
Along with that you also have to evaluate your goals with the setup. My goals are to run a mid 8 in the 1/4 with a/c which few have done. A 370ci motor with a 4788 has been right around this time,(without a/c) so I knew there was really no gain to be had going to a 408 or 427 and larger turbo.
Along with that you also have to evaluate your goals with the setup. My goals are to run a mid 8 in the 1/4 with a/c which few have done. A 370ci motor with a 4788 has been right around this time,(without a/c) so I knew there was really no gain to be had going to a 408 or 427 and larger turbo.
I have similar goals for my 93 although they are a little more extreme. 7.9x with the S95, AC, PS, and a stock appearing interior minus the rear seats. I'm planning on a 3.9 stroke, 6.100 rod, custom piston engine that should have a relatively nice 1.165 CH versus something like yours at 1.304.
I'm not sure of the process you went about deciding on an engine, but I think you might have selected the turbo first. Then, based your engine around that. Why not build an ideal engine for a forced induction application and then scale your turbo around the engine? Even if you are limited to a GT4788 sized turbo there's quite a few options. A larger engine will require less pressure / boost / stress to achieve the same goals. Less stress in the long run equates to greater durability. You could have at least gone with a 4.125 bore / 388ci and had a larger cylinder head selection.
#45
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Either approach will work. I chose a 364ci motor due to the fact that it would more than accomplish my goals of running mid eights. I did not however choose the 4788 until later in the game. I had PT88 but realized it wouldnt give me the power needed and too much back pressure. My cage is certed to 8.50 and I dont want to go to a 25.5 or 25.3 car. Thats no longer a street car. Don't care if it has a/c or not.
Im not worried about the additional stress from the turbo as this engine has been overbuilt by ERL. MightyMouse and I have almost identical motors(except mine has been oringed) and he has yet to see any issues with his long block running a PT88 all out. He has has cylinder head issues (had some cracking going on). At the end of the day both combos have their place. If I wanted to dig into the 7's and have a trailered car, then a 427 with a larger turbo would have been the natural choice. That's not what I wanted to do. What I have will be faster than 99% of the FI LS1 cars out there and Im content with that.
Im not worried about the additional stress from the turbo as this engine has been overbuilt by ERL. MightyMouse and I have almost identical motors(except mine has been oringed) and he has yet to see any issues with his long block running a PT88 all out. He has has cylinder head issues (had some cracking going on). At the end of the day both combos have their place. If I wanted to dig into the 7's and have a trailered car, then a 427 with a larger turbo would have been the natural choice. That's not what I wanted to do. What I have will be faster than 99% of the FI LS1 cars out there and Im content with that.
#46
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Yep. Running fuel through the rotors really helped cool this blower down. Wilson 2008 CFM T/B and I batch fired the injectors through the rotors. You could flog the engine and the blower case would not get nearly as hot as compared to direct port injection set-up.
#47
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Not to hijack the thread but an open question for ERL. According to your website, the Superdeck system can be used on LS1,2 3 & 7 blocks. Will using an LS1 block provide equal strength as the later model blocks?
#48
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You can also ask LSmonster as well because we've sleeved allot of LS1/LS6 blocks for him in the past using our Superdeck 1 sytem sleeving and I haven't seen any differences. By the time we are finished machining everything there really isn't anything different between the LS1/LS6 and the late model LS2,3 blocks that have our Superdeck 1 system installed. Iwould say that the only block we won't touch is the 1st gen LS1. That block does have issues. We sleeve the LS1 2nd gen which is the same as the LS6 on up.
#49
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You can also ask LSmonster as well because we've sleeved allot of LS1/LS6 blocks for him in the past using our Superdeck 1 sytem sleeving and I haven't seen any differences. By the time we are finished machining everything there really isn't anything different between the LS1/LS6 and the late model LS2,3 blocks that have our Superdeck 1 system installed. Iwould say that the only block we won't touch is the 1st gen LS1. That block does have issues. We sleeve the LS1 2nd gen which is the same as the LS6 on up.
#50
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To be safe, yes. There is one very early block you want to avoid, totally. I'll see if I can get a pick of it. The other LS1 blocks are fine for modifying to a Super Deck block.
I have one of the very first ERL blocks that was a GEN II LS1 and it's still going strong. 443" with a 4.200 bore and blower putting out over 1000 HP in a Sand Car. There is not a more abusive platform than a off road or Sand car... And I built that engine over five years ago!
I have one of the very first ERL blocks that was a GEN II LS1 and it's still going strong. 443" with a 4.200 bore and blower putting out over 1000 HP in a Sand Car. There is not a more abusive platform than a off road or Sand car... And I built that engine over five years ago!
#51
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Either approach will work. I chose a 364ci motor due to the fact that it would more than accomplish my goals of running mid eights. I did not however choose the 4788 until later in the game. I had PT88 but realized it wouldnt give me the power needed and too much back pressure. My cage is certed to 8.50 and I dont want to go to a 25.5 or 25.3 car. Thats no longer a street car. Don't care if it has a/c or not.
Im not worried about the additional stress from the turbo as this engine has been overbuilt by ERL. MightyMouse and I have almost identical motors(except mine has been oringed) and he has yet to see any issues with his long block running a PT88 all out. He has has cylinder head issues (had some cracking going on). At the end of the day both combos have their place. If I wanted to dig into the 7's and have a trailered car, then a 427 with a larger turbo would have been the natural choice. That's not what I wanted to do. What I have will be faster than 99% of the FI LS1 cars out there and Im content with that.
Im not worried about the additional stress from the turbo as this engine has been overbuilt by ERL. MightyMouse and I have almost identical motors(except mine has been oringed) and he has yet to see any issues with his long block running a PT88 all out. He has has cylinder head issues (had some cracking going on). At the end of the day both combos have their place. If I wanted to dig into the 7's and have a trailered car, then a 427 with a larger turbo would have been the natural choice. That's not what I wanted to do. What I have will be faster than 99% of the FI LS1 cars out there and Im content with that.
Honestly, how much boost do you think it is going to take for you to get into the 8.50 range on your engine. The issues Mighty Mouse has been having with his heads started with the seats taking a beating from, "inadequate valves" and then the extra head bolt cracked. Do you think it would do that if it was flowing the same amount of air through it, but at a lower pressure rating?
The other advantage is say you get to 8.50 and that gets old. How much can you turn up the wick before you start running into issues? I'm not knocking this at all as it should run very quickly, but in spending the same amount it doesn't make sense to me to limit yourself.
I was planning on using one to control 4 extra injectors through an aftermarket piggy back unit. Instead I'm planning on having my current intake bunged for 8 extra injectors and running two of the units. There's a lot of little details in it that I don't want to let out of the bag yet.
#52
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I see your logic and yes, if I planned on going faster than 8.50,which my cage is certed to, then I would have gone with a 427 and a larger turbo. The Precision GT4788 with billet wheel is $2,600, so yeah it aint cheap lol. Mightymouses head cracking issue was traced to poor castings if I remember correctly, and he tuliped some valves from overheating,beating on them. The setup I am building has already gone 8.8's in the cookie monster ta, and is said to have a lot more in it.
I did opt for a forged crank in my ERL shortblock. This is where my build differed from Mightymouses, as he uses the stock crank. To get close to 8.50 I am guessing 25psi is about right from the cars I have seen in this range. The GT4788 non billet wheel has gone 8.8's all day long with a 370ci E85 and 15psi. And honestly I would be very pleased to run those times. This car will never really be a dedicated race car. Just insane street/track mochine!
I did opt for a forged crank in my ERL shortblock. This is where my build differed from Mightymouses, as he uses the stock crank. To get close to 8.50 I am guessing 25psi is about right from the cars I have seen in this range. The GT4788 non billet wheel has gone 8.8's all day long with a 370ci E85 and 15psi. And honestly I would be very pleased to run those times. This car will never really be a dedicated race car. Just insane street/track mochine!
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#53
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lots of great info in here thanks!!
vette doctors are building me a custom ls6 based 427 sleeved aluminum block with the 6 bolt setup, billet main caps ton of machining n tricks
.. We will be using the LSX heads.
Going to be a turbo setup most probably the HP twin 67 kit.
vette doctors are building me a custom ls6 based 427 sleeved aluminum block with the 6 bolt setup, billet main caps ton of machining n tricks
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Going to be a turbo setup most probably the HP twin 67 kit.
#56
FormerVendor
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Actual cam was slightly big and bearings were slightly small so we took .001 off the cam journals.
Have to do it every once in a while for different reasons but it has nothing to do with ERL. Their work is very nice as always.
Most people simply don't check any of this which is also one of the reasons you see these phantom spun cam bearings.
Have to do it every once in a while for different reasons but it has nothing to do with ERL. Their work is very nice as always.
Most people simply don't check any of this which is also one of the reasons you see these phantom spun cam bearings.
#60
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Actual cam was slightly big and bearings were slightly small so we took .001 off the cam journals.
Have to do it every once in a while for different reasons but it has nothing to do with ERL. Their work is very nice as always.
Most people simply don't check any of this which is also one of the reasons you see these phantom spun cam bearings.
Have to do it every once in a while for different reasons but it has nothing to do with ERL. Their work is very nice as always.
Most people simply don't check any of this which is also one of the reasons you see these phantom spun cam bearings.
But you do have to make sure it's a sizing problem and not a "cocked" installed cam bearing.
How much cam bearing clearance do you like to see? How much do you think is too much?