Going into a buddies '67... I'm just breaking it in for him. lol

 

Talked with Horace over at Mast today..

We won't be crazy reving the engine so the solids would be "ok", but we decided to move to the hollow ones.

To be honest this is what I would have ordered, but I didn't check the right box when placing my order. Easy to miss the little things in the big picture.

Canton oil pan should be here Wednesday and then we will mod it to handle the stroke.

 

How are you baffeling it? Any other out-of-the-norm stuff for oiling, or KISS?

 

The pan itself comes with a nice trap door system. I then run out the pan (10AN) to a Canton t-stat set at 215-degrees. When tripped the oil passes through a Setrab 925 cooler.

From that system the oil return back to the engine passing through a Canton remote filter mount with a KN filter.

Some people like dry sump but the Canton pan has seen me through MANY hard road race tracks with no oil issues.

Although, with all the plumbing I would like more PSI. Right now I'm 60+ cold and at hot idle I'm down to 22.. cruise is 35 ish PSI. You can see the oil system plumbed to the core support in the video I posted earlier. All fittings are XRP.

 

When will the piston squirters be available?

 

I will ask.. I got the feeling it would be a month or two.. but not "long"

 

A good rule of thumb for oil pressure I have been told by a few people that really know what they are talking about is the following. On a babbitt bearing motor you should have 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM. That will keep it safe.

 

I can't believe that a 4.25 stroke works in a short deck, how long are the sleeves in the std deck block compared to the std gm ones?

Regardless, awesome build. I really wanted to take the route of the RHS block, still may..... I have a good top end (solid roller set up ET 4 inch bore heads) that I'd love to throw on a 450+ inch motor. Heads may not quite be enough for that many Ci, but I'm sure that Cary could work some magic on them if I sent them back.

 

Very cool, that sounds in line with my plans, to a degree. Is there a reason you chose 215*? Mines fully open at 185*

Do you find that a cooler that big is necessary? I was actually going to get a
Setrab, but i was thinking something more like 14x4, but im also not really going to be racing so much as driving it with peace of mind..

Also looks like XRP has a TON of stuff and even more info, but no pricing? I actually put off getting all my braided stuff from BAT inc this weekend, but maybe that was for the better.. Is there a reason why you go with them specifically? I need to plumb my cooler, pcv and fuel still, would be nice to have them prefab some lines

 

The reason Canton sets thier t-stat there is so that the oil will get hot enough to evap any moisture (ie water) that condenses into the oil. If you oil never gets over 200 (much less to the boiling point of water) then moisture will continue to build in your oil. Plus 220-230 isn't really all that hot for oil.

 

This cooler is most likely bigger than I need.. but I had the room and was tired of having high oil temp on extended road racing sessions. You don't need one nearly this big.

I went with XRP because they make good stuff that is better than most stuff out there. Mostly this is in the area of flow and how the inside of the fittings are designed. Now there are other good flowing fittings, but I've had good luck with XRP and some of the el-cheapo fittings really hurt flow and that's bad in the oil department.

Hold an XRP up next to another brand and you should be able to see the difference.

Got to www.xrp.com and open the catalog. Then look on the bottom of page 15 and you will see what I mean.

 

Yeah thats a pretty noticeable difference. This is turning out to be one of the more complicated parts of my build, just making sure all the little crap fits. Luckily it looks like theyre the 'call n talk' type so maybe I can get my questions answered there.

and @ the top of the page: How many ls 1st gen guys do you hang out with? hahaha

 

that is some pretty engine ****

 

what was your reasoning of going with the mast heads in this application? awesome ride btw

 

Wow nice pics of the parts can't wait to see it done

 

Very surprising 9.240" deck minus 6.125" rod minus 2.125" crank travel
equals a piston compression distance of 0.990"!! (zero in the hole)

 

Great flow numbers.. nice specs and I wanted to give them a try.

 

We haven't measured the deck yet or seen where the piston falls in the hole.

But yea, it's all "on the edge" stuff.. guess we just better make sure we do it right.

 

Id like to see how these perform compared to the big bore ones PRC LS3 heads when they come out

 

Fixed that for you...